Back in July, I bought a very cheap, very rough-looking 2008 Range Rover. My original goal with this car was to use it as a beater in New York City, where I live, but I’ve ended up holding onto my Miata into these fall months instead. So the Range Rover has just been sitting in my parents’ driveway unloved for the past month or so.
That’s going to change soon. I plan to sell the Miata within the next month or so, leaving the Range Rover as my only car. While I still intend to have the SUV live on city streets, I also want to have some fun with it. And what’s better than taking an unreliable, nearly worthless luxury SUV off-roading?
I could dive in head-first and go rock crawling with the Range Rover as-is, but I think that’d be pretty short-sighted, and would likely leave me stranded with a 5,700-pound vehicle in the middle of the wilderness. While I’m sure that would make a great story, I don’t really want to deal with that. So I gave the Range a proper look-over to see what it needs.
First Things First
Before I could check if any of the Range Rover’s factory off-road gear worked, I needed to make sure it still worked at all. Leaving huge, old luxury cars for a month without a battery tender has, in my experience, never gone without punishment. And this time was no different. The truck was totally dead when I tried to start it last weekend—the cabin lights didn’t even come on.
With no jumper pack at my disposal, I had two cars to choose from for getting the Range Rover jumpstarted: My tiny Miata and my mom’s nearly-as-tiny Honda Civic coupe. I chose the Honda, and connected the leads. I gave the Range Rover about five minutes to charge, but it still wouldn’t start. Knowing it would probably take a good deal of juice to get the 4.4-liter Jaguar V-8 spinning, I let it sit for about 20 more minutes. After that, it fired right up.
As for dash lights, the vehicle currently has two: One for a tire pressure monitoring fault and a check engine light. The CEL is emissions-related; the engine is running just fine, and doesn’t even burn much oil. Bottom line: I’m not worried about either of these lights right now (though I would like to take care of them in the future).
Let’s Find Out Why This Thing Was Originally $77,000
The L322-generation Range Rover is a pretty capable off-roader from the factory. Even my base model HSE got a lot of useful gear. Above you’ll see the brand’s Terrain Response System knob, which adjusts stuff like engine management, gearbox management, the center-locking differential, stability control, traction control, and, of course, the height of the air suspension.
It’s tough to say whether this system is working as it should, seeing as how I’ve never driven this SUV off-road. But it’s not throwing any faults, whether I put it into Grass/gravel/snow, Mud/ruts, Sand, or Rock Crawl mode. I’ll know for sure what’s what when I actually get it on some dirt.
Then there’s the air suspension. The springs on all four corners of the L322 are airbags, allowing drivers to select from three predetermined heights. On-road height is the middle height, and the height you’ll most commonly see these things running, as this is where the Range Rover is meant to sit when it’s just cruising along on pavement. Off-road height, as you can probably guess, raises the truck to improve ground clearance, approach angle, departure angle, and breakover angle. The third height, Access height, lowers the Range Rover’s suspension to allow easier entry and egress, or to lower the roof to squeeze through areas with low clearance.
These air systems are infamous for springing leaks, which leaves L322 Range Rovers sagging on one end when parked. Thankfully, my Range Rover’s air ride doesn’t seem to leak; even after a month of sitting, the suspension was still resting at its On-road height setting, right where I left it. But that doesn’t mean it’s free of faults. While it’ll go into Access height just fine, the truck refuses to go into Off-road height, throwing either a “suspension fault” message or a “suspension will lift when system cooled” message on the dash.
Going by my forum research, that last message might suggest the air compressor (a little electric motor that sits in the spare tire well in the trunk) might be getting really hot and overworking itself to keep the system filled. But importantly, it still works like it should to fill the system when needed. Why the truck refuses to go into Off-road height will require a bit more digging. Though I’m sure the Range Rover could handle an off-road environment in its regular height, having that extra clearance would be nice.
What Else Needed Checking?
Another thing I confirmed as working was the two-speed transfer case. Every L322 got an electronically switchable transfer case for switching between high and low range. Thankfully, this one works without issue. When I choose the “Lo” speed on the center console, a green light comes on the dash alerting me that the Rover is in low range, and I get a “low range selected” message in the instrument cluster. I also drove the truck a few feet just to make sure it was working, and it was. That’s an important win.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned about off-roading, it’s that the bottom of your car is going to hit way more stuff than you think. If you have the right equipment, that’s not an issue. All Range Rovers of this generation came with a metal skidplate protecting the drivetrain up front. But mine is just… missing.
I guess it’s just my fault for not checking this when I bought the car, but yeah, I don’t think I’ll be doing any real off-roading without this pan in place. It’s just too risky. The last thing I want is to puncture my oil pan and have to replace my engine because a rod decided to leave the block due to the lack of lubrication.
At least I have some semi-good tires on the Range Rover. While they’re not meant for off-roading, these Nokian all-weather tires are rated for winter performance, which should help with slippery stuff. If I had the money, I’d upgrade to some true all-terrains, but I don’t see a reason to throw out these nearly-new tires just yet. So they stay.
As for gear, I’d like to get an off-road jack in case I slice a sidewall open on a particularly jagged rock (my spare tire still holds air, I checked). I’d also like to get some ropes in case I get stuck. Ideally, I’ll have a friend with another truck with me, so I’m not totally on my own.
Really, the two biggest things are the off-road suspension height not working and the missing skid plate. Once those are solved, I can start hitting trails. Stay tuned.
Top graphic images: Brian Silvestro; DepositPhotos.com
Don’t do anything and it will always be offroad
I expect the lede image on the follow up article to say “I’m Scarred”
Air compressor ; probably seals on the piston need to be replaced.
Tires ; go into some mud and they become slick as ice and won’t give much traction anymore. Even the cheapest second hand worn AT tires will do better off-road.
You’re going to regret getting rid of the Miata.
Love this generation – they were, and still are, so handsome. I think they’re worth investing in and keeping nice. Super capable machines if looked after.
Good luck I would look for a beater truck or suv to use for hauling parts around for that thing and to use when it refuses to move under it’s own power. I’ve known a few people to attempt old range rover as only car and it doesn’t work. There is also a reason alot people convert those to coil instead of air. You solve on problem only for another to appear. It’s really replace the whole air system or go to coil.
A Beater Suburban or Tahoe (GMT800) would outperform a Range Rover any day reliability wise.
As far as the suspension, you really need to do a full test, or at least buy a code-reader that can pull the proprietary codes. iCarsoft makes a good one. When the car is saying “Suspension will lift when system cooled,” that’s definitely in respect to the compressor working too hard, but it could be any number of things. It could be a leak in an air strut, valve block, line or reservoir, although you would generally see the car sitting lower than it should or constantly trying to air up the failing corner(s). This happened to my 2020 (L405) a couple of months ago, and the LR dealer somehow got the aftermarket warranty company to replace the leaking strut, when usually that’s considered a “wear item.”
It’s likelier the compressor itself is bad. The compressor in the L322 typically fails when the piston seal wears away and there’s not enough compression, causing the compressor to toil more than it should and overheat. Fortunately, compressors are cheap–if that ends up being the cause–at between $300 and $400. I personally wouldn’t bother with a used one; the aftermarket ones are just fine and will at least be new.
But definitely diagnose your issues properly. These are not the cars to fire the parts cannon at. Ask me how I know.
Since I’ve had multiple people over the years comment on having their Range Rover towed and NEVER heard someone say theirs was problem free, hard pass, unless you happened to be Doug Demuro and had gotten the Carmax warranty.
I have the equivalent of the CarMax warranty, on a five-year-old Range Rover. I’ve had the car since July and it’s already paid out $7,000. And counting, because it’s back there again since the transfer case clunks on left turns still. The vehicle has 73,000 miles, and I’m warrantied until July 2031 or 148,000 miles.
7K! In four months, for a 5 year old truck lol.
These things are pure piles of garbage.
That’s more money than I spent on my ’98 Chevy C1500, including its original purchase price, over the 13 years I owned it: two sets of tires, the entire AC system save the evaporator, complete front brakes and all major hard lines and hoses, and all other maintenance and repair parts I had to fix.
Having the warranty is great, but is it your DD? If so, that’s got to be a real PITA unless it comes with a courtesy car for every overnight trip to the shop!
Best of luck with that unit. My wife had one, and it was the biggest money pit in the world. I can’t even list all the issues it had before it even hit 90k miles. Nice looking, comfortable and fun to drive, but such piles of garbage they are.
Air Suspension failures in Range Rovers seem to be more fatal than those in Escalades or Lexus SUVs.
I have no idea why.
And, maintaining a Range Rover is like having an extremely attractive lady as your romantic interest, full of glam and the most provocative dressing. As long as you pump money into her, she will stay with you.
Your average Tahoe/Suburban looks blander (minus the new ones- they have issues and need to prove themselves), but will last longer. Even replacing the lifters won’t come close to fixing anything on a Range Rover.
That’s a great way of putting it. The main problem with them is the electrical issues that just aren’t fixable. The dealer had it for 7 months and gave up on trying to fix it. It would switch drive modes when the headlights were turned on, do erratic downshifts, the seat heaters would randomly get super hot, the steering wheel wouldn’t adjust, lug 4th gear on take off, and do all sorts of random stuff on top of the engine oil leaks, coolant leaks, constant brake jobs, and timing job that it needed as well.
when you had JLR product the term “Being off road” take a whole different meaning. I mean it is technically off the road.
I feel like I had that RR saved on FB marketplace. I’ve noticed quite a few L322s with that rear quarter rust, must be a spot that holds moisture. Your chassis looks quite nice though.
Yep. The wheel liner and secondary seal collude to trap moisture there and it eats away at the body. They also rot under the sill covers. You will commonly see rust either there or just ahead of a rear wheel. UK examples are even worse, though it doesn’t seem to stop them from passing their MOTs.
I guess it’s not considered structural rust? I’ve been looking at quite a few diesel manual Discos to bring over here, the door sill and rocker rust can be alarming.
“Ideally, I’ll have a friend with
another trucka lifted smart car with me, so I’m not totally on my own.” That could be a fun adventure, with enough momentum and a kinetic energy strap, can a smart car unstick a 5700 lb, stuck Range Rover?These criss-crossing tire marks in the symbol for the snow mode in that picture of the terrain management knob brings to mind this video about the UK slippery road sign which shows the same criss-crossing tire marks (excuse me, tyre marks): https://youtu.be/_eL_r7NbAvA?si=5F7s3CUkIWPt7QNS and also shows some attempts at duplicating those marks with some success. Rather entertaining.
Out of curiosity, does your screen work? I just bought a 2010 and it drives like a dream. BUT the infotainment system is a complete nightmare. It works just fine about 20% of the time then it goes into a fit where it cycles through the inputs and will not stop. Then other times it throws a temperature error. I have tried all the internet solutions and some work for a little while but it keeps shitting the bed. I plan to just replace the whole system and do a carplay head unit, but I wonder if you have similar issues.
For the record these things are amazingly comfortable and quiet. I wanted something that would gobble up highway miles in comfort that could also handle Montana winters and backroads. So far a little over a month in it has been perfect other than the infotainment system.
Mine works just fine thankfully!
Your 2010 has a system that was new to the Range Rover that year. It had previously been installed in the Jaguar cars (using a different skin), namely the 2007 XK and 2009 XF, but the Range Rover, Range Rover Sport and LR4/Disco 4 got it in 2010, coinciding with facelifts for those models. It was mostly retired by 2014, although the XK kept it through its entire run.
Brian’s 2008 will have the prior system that was installed in the 2006-2009 Rnage Rovers. 2006 cars had most of the BMW-era interior and some lingering electronics, but still got an updated infotainment and a different cluster, and that carried over into the 2007-2009 cars, which got an interior facelift and the Terrain Response controller.
And of course the earlier 2003-2005 models fundamentally were BMW products, electronics-wise, with versions of the same interfaces (and infotainment) that were in the E38, E39, E46 and E53. These are highly retrofittable.
It wasn’t all that long ago that the 2010-2012 L322 lacked aftermarket infotainment options, but now there are tons of them, including some that give you a full-width screen. I definitely recommend going ahead and replacing it with something more modern; it will improve your experience.
Digging 5700lbs out of the mud will be all sorts of fun.
The best equipment to have while offroading is a buddy with a winch and some recovery straps.
“I’m scared”…. you should be
I’d get the new all terrains and sell those nearly new tires to offset the cost.
For the off-road jack, what are you thinking? Is there a decent point for a hi-lift jack on that thing, or are you going to need to add sliders or steel bumpers to use one? Also, hi-lifts suck to use, so practice with it on level ground. A newer (but expensive) off road jack option is an exhaust based inflatable jack, may be a better way to go if you don’t have solid jack points.
Speaking about that- how are the recovery points on these things from the factory? Can you buddy pull you out easily?
Agreed on all points. Came to ask the same questions and more.
“Get some ropes in case I get stuck” is an uniformed decision.
This next bit is for Mr. Silvestro
Decide on hard mounting points. If you don’t have any, add them. Two in front, two in back.
multiple recovery straps
snatch block or two
high lift jack for its ‘comealong’ features, especially if you are going without a winch
the ‘couple of ropes’ should likely be kinetic
tree strap
D-rings or soft shackles, you pick. I don’t hate either of them.
Sidewall patch repair kit
self vulcanizing rubber tire repair kit.
^^^^^^^^^^^ One spare tire may not get you off the trail. How old is the tire that still holds air?
GMRS, even if a crappy 5 watt handheld. To do it right, get your GMRS add-on.
“Never go alone; prepare to self-rescue”
Hi lift jack has gotten me out of many a bad off-roading decisions. You gotta be carful with that thing, though. Still have the vision of the handle crack my friend in the jaw and him spitting blood.
Yeah, they are useful, but using one for the first time in an off-camber situation is not the time to learn it. Practice at home so you know how it behaves.
My brother almost castrated himself with one. When the doctor patched him up, one of the twins was fine, the other barely made it. Docs response? “Dont worry, that one was just a reserve anyway.”
your suspension error is more than likely an aging air suspension compressor. replace the compressor and the distribution block and you should be right as rain
This thing is at the other “corner of the box” complexity-wise compared to David’s new Jeep project. Good luck!
If you plan on keeping the air ride and getting it sorted (I would, and have kept the air suspension working on my XJ), you’ll quickly want to add to your tool collection a JLR-specific scan tool (something from iCarsoft) and/or set up an old laptop, download JLR’s diagnostic software (SDD or its predecessor, IDS). Both the various Jag or LR forums should have links to download older versions of the software that run independently of the mothership. You’ll also need an appropriate dongle between laptop and car. DrewSoft’s Mongoose (or clones thereof) are what you need to find.
It’s a bold statement Cotton, let’s see how it works out for him.
If you can dodge a wrench, you can drive a Range Rover…?
I loved my Range Rover, am pretty brave when it comes to oddball esoteric European cars, but I was never even remotely THAT brave.
I did buy it sight-unseen and drive it home to Maine from San Antonio though. 15yrs old and 135K miles at the time.
The StrangeRover build begins.
You mention a tow rope (great idea!) but are there effective tow hooks available? Not the emergency use screw in type, but real off road mounting points for the strap? None are readily visible in the images above, and if they aren’t you will want to make sure you plan ahead for where you can attach to. I’m sure if they don’t have real hooks on the front from the factory there is an aftermarket bracket and hook you can bolt on readily.
Usually in the rear (if you have one) the hitch works well, but you should include a receiver with a clevis attachment, don’t just hook onto the ball. Backup option is to stick the rope through the draw bar and put the receiver pin through the loop in the rope, but that can sometimes lead to chafing on the rope. Better that then a broken tow ball flying through the air!
Also, make sure your tow rope has looped ends, not metal hooks. Those inevitably break and become dense projectiles, usually aimed directly at the vehicle towing or getting towed.
Enjoy getting off pavement, definitely a fun adventure no matter how mild the trail!
Yes, there are metal mounting points front and rear, thankfully
Usually these are taken off the road, versus off-road. Good luck.