I’ve been driving my “Holy Grail” 2021 BMW i3S for almost a year now, and it is without question one of the best cars I’ve ever owned. I adore the strange experimental carbon fiber, suicide door-equipped, rear scooter motor-having electric city car, and plan to keep it until the end of time. But as much as I love the wood-dashed wonder from Leipzig, one thing that’s driving me bonkers is its ride quality. It’s bad. Really, really bad.
Bad ride quality is not something I find acceptable in this day and age. While the “S” in the BMW i3S stands for “sport,” and thus one might expect a slightly stiffer ride, the car is from 2021. By 2021 so many automakers had figured out how to make a car both handle well and ride well.
As a car journalist, I’ve been fortunate enough to drive all sorts of sports cars over the years — the new Supra, the Porsche 911, the Audi e-Tron GT, the Lotus Emira, and on and on. And you know what all these cars have in common? They handle insanely well, but they also ride well.
Seriously, the era of it being acceptable for a car to ride like a stiff board because it’s been tuned specifically for canyon-carving is over. And if we’re being entirely honest, my BMW i3S is far from a sports car, anyway! This isn’t a purpose-built, low-slung, high-horsepower exotic with a huge wing and racing aspirations, it’s a city car. It’s a BMW i3. And yet, the ride quality on this machine is back-breakingly terrible.
When the “S” version of the BMW i3 came out for the 2018 model-year, it was clear BMW was trying to find a way to freshen up its then five-year old electric car. Not only did all i3s models receive an interior and exterior styling refresh, but the “S” model joined the fray, bringing with it unique looks and some trick suspension. BMW describes the 2018 i3S in its press release:
Underneath all of the design elements, the first-ever BMW i3s features a sports suspension that includes a 10-millimeter drop in height. The black wheel arch moldings’ emphasize an increase of 40 millimeters track width compared to the BMW i3 providing a stable stance and visually a broader presence. The BMW i3s comes standard with exclusive 20-inch light-alloy wheels in double-spoke design which are ½-inch wider than the previously available wheels. In addition the wheel arches in high-gloss black add 20 millimeters in width which optically enhance the vehicles size. Overall, the first ever BMW i3s is the most powerful BMW i3 to date and its sporty character is reflected via design elements highlighting width.
[…]
The first-ever BMW i3s features sports suspension with specially developed springs, dampers and anti-roll bars. Drivers can now also select SPORT mode using the Driving Dynamics Control switch. This initiates more direct accelerator response and tighter steering characteristics to accentuate the car’s sporting edge. Just 6.8 seconds (preliminary) is enough to see the BMW i3s burst past 100 km/h on its way to a top speed of 160 km/h (preliminary).
The truth is, that “trick suspension” doesn’t feel trick at all. It just feels stiff. And it’s not just me saying that.
In the review above, The Straight Pipes YouTube channel says about the i3S: “It’s kind of uncomfortable over bumps. it’s really stiff.”
YouTuber Jay Emm says in his review above: “I can’t help but wonder that these 20-inch alloys might be partly responsible for the relatively unsettled ride.”
When the Auto EV YouTube channel reviewed a BMW i3S, here’s what they came up with for pros and cons:
“If there is a tradeoff, however, it is in the ride comfort,” the host says. “We’ve driven a standard i3…and it wasn’t quite as jiggly as this. I think the larger 20 inch wheels…just give it that…they don’t absorb like they should.”
Evo magazine, in its review, wrote:
The electric B-Class or Golf annihilate the BMW in that regard and while the i3 feels stable and comfortable at motorway speeds, around town the large wheels seem to pick up every little imperfection in the surface underneath. It’s the primary ride more than the secondary, as the i3 absorbs bigger bumps such as speed humps, quite well.
To be sure, the base i3 wasn’t perfect either. The super skinny tires, the relatively narrow track, the tall profile, and the high seating position did make the car feel a bit unstable at highway speeds, with the wind pushing around the tall car, the skinny tires “tramlining” cracks in the pavement, and any amount of roll being felt obviously by the driver. BMW Blog‘s Tom Moloughney actually disliked the base i3’s ride so much, he preferred the i3S’s setup:
At highway speeds, the base i3 can be a little skittish at times, especially on windy days. The tall, boxy shape and skinny tires were really designed for lower-speed city driving. However, the lower and wider suspension, plus more rubber on the pavement have eliminated all of the deficiencies the base i3 has at high speeds. The car feels rock solid and planted now, all the way up to the electronically-limited 100 mph top speed.
And I agree with the “planted” bit. My standard i3 required me to really grip that steering wheel and pay attention, as the car had a tendency to wander. My i3S, thanks largely to its wider tires and track, does not. But I’d give up the mild increase in highway stability for better ride quality in a second.
The i3, whether S or not, isn’t an exotic. It’s never going to be someone’s weekend-only sports car for carving canyons, so the unrelenting suspension is an egregious error on BMW’s part.
In many ways, the S model seems to have lost track of what the BMW i3 is all about. The wider track increases the turning radius by over a foot. The lowered suspension makes navigating steep driveways and parking curbs a bit trickier. The body kit reduces range due to aerodynamic compromises. The wider tires also increase drag.
The BMW i3 is meant to be an efficient, nimble daily-driver. The BMW i3S reduces the efficiency, reduces the nimbleness, and destroys the ride quality around town. On the freeway? It’s fine. And if you thought the standard car was a bit too nervous due to the skinny tires, you might say the highway ride is improved. But this is a city car, and around town, I find the i3S to be a back-breaker.
I’m told that going to tires with a slightly taller sidewall will help, and since I bought 16 tires (!) that have a sidewall about 3/8 of an inch taller than stock, I should be able to test this out soon.
Until then, I will feel every bump in the road. Every little expansion joint and crack in the pavement will yield a loud THUD, shooting my beloved 24,000-mile Galvanic Gold BMW i3S Rex Giga World’s seat right up into my arse. This is especially annoying on chill Sunday morning drives when I’m just trying to relax as the beautiful mist from the ocean is slowly burned off by the sun rising from the east. Just as soon as I start feeling the vibes, it’s THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD. Total mood-killer.
Thank goodness this car is so excellent otherwise.
Is it possible to find any smaller wheels? You’re riding on wagon wheels as-is. That’s probably going to give you the easiest “win” here.
BMWs sport suspensions a legendarily rough riding, especially on the smaller vehicles.
I have owned a Mini Cooper S with the sport suspension which was so comically rough that every pothole felt like I was inducing major damage to the car.
The sport suspension and those internal run flats, take an otherwise fantastic car and turn it into a jittery painful bucking beast.
How sporty and smooth riding can you make a 5,000lb brick?
I think these things max out around 3300 lbs. Carbon Fiber is a wonderful thing.. until you go to repair it.
I suspect the fact that it is likely 3000 lbs or less is why David loves it so much. 3000 lb vehicles are a blast to drive, almost regardless of how well they are designed and built. They have a personality that can’t be described. Unless you drive something under 2500 lbs.
One more thing – the main issue on the i3s isn’t actually stiffness itself, it’s rebound on the factory dampers. Instead of going “bang”, it goes “bang-g-g-g” in combination with the wheel base. This generates the abrupt and jittery ride. And when your trim starts rattling, it gets maddening – fortunately all of this is super easy to fix 🙂
I hate to say this, but most likely my next car will be an SUV. The Reason is sidewalls. My back can’t take the abuse of rubber band tires.
David knows engineering. Skinny sidewalls lead to Jerk, which is a rapid change in acceleration. Jerk hurts. You can take a lot of acceleration without physical effects if the acceleration is smoothly applied.
It would be interesting to put an accelerometer on the floorboard and record the time history of going through the same road with 20″ and 16″ wheels. I expect the recordings will be very different, especially when you analyze the data for peak jerks.
I am crushed that we are being forced into CUVs and SUVs because that is the only way to get decent tire depth on modern vehicles. It also pisses me off that you can only get more tire depth with the cheapest models of most car-based vehicles. Why can’t I have a choice???? You aren’t giving me bigger brake rotors with the ‘sportier’ wheels, so give me some comfort!
I know, the struts are supposed-to take up the slack of the thinner tires, but damn! I had my suspension repaired ($$$), and it only took one pothole to bring the rattle back. If I had an extra 1/2″ of rubber, maybe I could have weathered the impact????
100% agree. I can live with a modern small SUV if I change what I call it. They are not SUVs, they are cos-playing FWD/AWD vehicles and not body on frame 4WD rock-climbers.
But by calling them. OLD MAN BACK 5 DOOR HATCHES, I can accept them. With butt height seats and visible sidewalls, these things have everything I used to envy with European hatches of my youth and can handle a back held together with broken screws and hope.
May your screws and hope continue to hold.
I admit that my wife’s lifted sedan is easy to slide in and out of, and my parents appreciate that, but damn! It is hard to loosen my principles.
I don’t know what car I can buy that will appease my wimpy-butt family while not being a dead driving experience with a suspension that leans suddenly into turns. I’m afraid to go German, but I suspect that’s where I’ll need to go.
Yeah, last doctor’s visit was good. Back still hurts a lot, but I can do some stuff now. Might have to have my Temu screws removed at some point if they keep bothering me.
As for cars, I saw a BMW X2 this weekend. That’s a nice looking package. Not sure if it has sidewalls, but it’s more of a small wagon than a normal SUV. But everything about a BMW from the cost to buy new to the cost potential to repair used scares me.
I’m thinking the future for people like you and me might be EV SUVs. They have power, their center of gravity is lower that for an ICE and they have sidewalls. But they are fat and run skinny low rolling resistance tires to get a few more miles of range. My aforementioned back can’t do long stints on the highway, so giving up 50 miles of range to put something sticky and wide under each corner would be worth it. Upgrade the anti-sway bars and the combination might actually be acceptable.
Either an SUV, or be ok with cloth seats. We prefer them anyway, so buying low trim level cars which come with smaller wheels is a win/win. Cars typically start at 16″ or 17″.
I love the ride in our Outback, it has 17″s but massive chonky sidewalls. It’s comfy.
When I looked at new Accord Hybrids, I told the dealer I wanted an EX-L They didn’t have many in stock. But why not a Sport they ask? Look how cool it looks with the 20″ wheels!
Me: 20″ wheels ride worse, give worse MPG, tires are more to replace, and I’ll bend one on the potholes in this city.
Them: well cant argue with that.
I did the same thing with my ’17 Accord coupe. Didn’t want the Sport version with it’s larger wheels, 18’s are big enough anyway, all the bigger wheels do is accentuate the small brakes and cost more to replace.
You’re going to wind up hating this car and setting fire to it. Every article about the i3 is something negative, some new terrible design choice.
Your defense of its wonderfullness is becoming strained and you’re going to need the catharsis of watching it burn to restore your inner well being.
Luckily that battery is going to burn for a looong time. I’m sorry, I mean it will experience a prolonged thermal runaway event. Either way, very cathartic.
Counterpoint: this is intentional engagement targeted writing. Keeps us clicking just so we can think, essentially, exactly what you wrote. Such is life in this day and age, I suppose…
The Autopian is better than most places online, and has to feed the beast somehow, but I always feel used on these articles that seem, to me, be approached in a very intentional way to elicit feelings/include intentional opportunities for the reader to grasp a thought and tackata tackata tackata it out in the comments…
Sometimes a Holy Grail melts your face.
COTD material right here.
Are you saying that he chose…poorly?
Yes.
But he is making progress and I don’t want to discourage him.
I just hope he doesn’t have like four extra sets of bad tires piled up in Evora’s garage.
The EV or long range hybrids of this era seemed to have posed a challenge to the suspension designers. It took them a while to tune a suspension & wheel setup from a small car to carry the weight of a much larger car.
Low sidewalls were definitely used in a chase for efficiency. I notice a marked difference on my 2nd gen Volt when I go go from my summers on 18’s to my winters that are on 17’s.
This shouldn’t have been a challenge to BMW. i3 was always going to be electric, and they had definitely had experience sport-tuning suspensions for vehicles at or above its weight.
It’s an even bigger difference when you run 15s in winter. I immediately notice the ride quality difference when I switch back to the stock 17s (but also the fact that the sidewall isn’t nearly as squishy).
20″ Tire option:
https://www.amazon.ca/Standard-Pressure-Widened-Non-Slip-Off-Road/dp/B0CD24FKM9
I used to sell Lexus for a couple of years after college and one thing I would do when people compared the ES350 to the F-Sport is if you are ok giving up the fancy wheels, grill and seats just go with the regular one. The ride was so much more comfortable in the regular ES and honestly if you want sporty just for the GS (back then it was still around) instead of half committing to sporty with the ES and paying more to give up a noticeable amount of comfort. So yeah the sport version of a car is not always the best option.
I didn’t even know the ES350 F-sport existed. Why?
Lol it does and exactly. It would make a little more sense now that the GS is gone to fill that gap but no it was around back then when the GS was still around.
… let’s see what we have here:
Short wheelbase? Check.
20″ wheels, with low-profile, high wear electrical tape presenting itself as a tire? Check.
Something that is a city-car by design, and not sporty by any measure? Check.
Buyer’s regret? Check.
My 4-4-2 clone started life as a Cutlass S. That’s the “Sport” Cutlass. What did that mean? It meant you got the 4-4-2 hood and 4-4-2 tail lights and rocket emblems with an S in the middle instead of the rocket. And that was it. That was all the sport. Original setup was the Olds 350 V8 with a 2 barrel carb and single exhaust, and a 2-speed automatic. I guess BMW should have taken a cue from Olds on this one…
You really have gone Cali-soft David 😀 I’ve been driving a 2019 i3s in Ontario Canada for the past 5 years and i’m not sick of it yet! I’ll also add that softer 19-inch winter wheels/tires don’t really help with the ride… maybe your MOMOs will, please report back once you have those mounted!
The one thing that David didn’t mention is that LA roads can be REALLY bad
Laughing from the bottom of a pothole in Montreal.
LA doesn’t have potholes so much as they have never ending freeway expansion joints. So you are just constantly getting this suspension input. When I did vehicle dynamics tuning long ago we literally did trips to LA to tune for what was called “freeway hop”. Depending on speed and wheelbase, on vehicles with stiff suspensions you could get into a condition where the whole vehicle did a low frequency jump that just never would stop. It was both jarring and could give you make you motion sick if you were suspectable to it. California was such a large market for vehicles we wanted to make sure the vehicles would ride well there.
My god, man, he lived in Detroit.
The i3 is increasingly becoming a White Elephant that you’ve gifted upon yourself.
Jeez, if you’re feeling like this driving on LA roads, can you imagine how the car would feel back in Michigan? Yikes!
There have to be other ways to tone it down. Maybe if you used struts from the stock version?
LA roads are equally as bombed out as Michigan for the most part
Seriously? I’ve driven from one end of this country to the other. Along with Florida, California has some of the smoothest roads in this country. They don’t use salt, there is no freeze/thaw cycle, and they don’t drag 800lb chunks of steel across the roadway surface- mountain areas excepted.
Sure, there are “potholes” and other issues related to deferred maintenance in LA. But any comparison between LA roads and those in Michigan, Illinois, Ohio, etc. is frankly ludicrous.
So, you’ve got a little BMW I3 economy car that self-identifies as a sports car? Well David, I think you should encourage it! Add a huge wing out back and some wide wheels! .. lol
I wonder how much this has to do with BMW’s unfamiliarity with the differences of electric vehicles making this car. I recall reading reviews that the i8 also had a jittery, overly stiff ride and in form factor that’s about as far away as possible from the i3 (which also was always criticized for weird ride quality even in “regular” models)
It drives me up a wall how companies will tie certain things to sporty options.
From seats to differentials to dash materials. What if i want a limited slip and wheels smaller than 19 inch?
Of course no one else has asked if 17s will fit, but theyll sure ask about 21s
David, I’ve been following your relationship with the BMW i3 for a while now. But I either missed it entirely, or you haven’t written about it: how did you manage to get used to the funky BMW turn signal stalks? The ones that don’t stay in position when you’re indicating making a turn, but instead return to the center position? Or do the US models of the i3 have the common sense type turn indicator stalk?
DT has officially gone full Hollywood
My 2022 Camry XSE Hybrid is the ‘sport’ version. It has firmer dampers and beefier swaybars. I haven’t driven the other versions myself, but word on the street is that the non-sport suspension Camrys are a little too soft and float too much; the sport suspension is just about right.
Mind you, this is on the 19 inch wheels that come stock on the XSE that do nothing to improve the ride, adding unnecessary weight and reducing tire compliance for only a visual benefit. The engineer in me wanted to see if I could improve the ride further, so last summer I swapped out my 19×8 wheels for the lightest 17×8 wheels I could get and paired them with some 300 treadwear summer tires. I ended up shedding almost exactly 10 lbs per corner and gained a significant amount of sidewall.
The improvement is significant. The car rides noticeably better over bumps and potholes, wheel hop on hard acceleration is reduced, and I’ve even picked up an additional 1-2 mpg despite the switch to wider, grippier summer rubber which was a pleasant surprise.
The right wheel/tire combination for the job will definitely improve ride quality. My guess is that those rock-hard fuel economy optimized tires mounted on huge 20 inch wheels are doing David no favors. It’s too bad that the i3 uses such an odd wheel size, as a fatter tire on a smaller diameter wheel would undoubtedly improve things.
David.. there is a fix. Evolve makes custom dampers for i3s, co developed with Bilstein.
I’m doing the Evolve upgrade soon myself, from the reviews it should be a night and day difference. I refused getting the regular i3 because of how unstable it drives on highways and to my feel the i3s did not feel any stiffer.
Btw the thing that makes the i3s feel really stiff is interior rattles. When I fixed my trim issues, the car feels stiff, yes, but manageable (before this I had an Euro Civic mk9, Mazda cx7, Subaru Outback BP).
I just accept it as the cost for carbon fibre body on frame construction and the super short wheelbase. I would not exchange this car for anything except maaaybee an iX or the Neue Klasse i3 when it gets cheap enough used 🙂
We briefly had an ‘05 Holden Commodore SV6. Its suspension was so stiff that it jarred my back on every pot hole. The next “sporty” car I had after that was an ‘09 BMW 135i and whilst it had a harsh ride, the seat more than made up for it so I could deal with it. I’m not saying that the commodore had bad seats either, they were perfectly plush, it’s just they didn’t cushion the blow like the BMW did.
I had a 2007 Honda Fit Sport. It was fine. I don’t know what you’re on about. Seriously though, the only reason they didn’t call it an EX was because it didn’t have a moonroof. Otherwise, that’s all it was. There was a small difference in the suspension, but not enough to destroy the ride.
Sometimes, tires (and wheels) make all the difference. I remember once, my dad borrowed my B16 swapped 1996 Civic CX for some reason (I think his truck was in the shop or something) but when he got back, he said he was annoyed. How was it possible, that my modified, lowered, 12 year old (at the time) hodgepodge Civic rode SOOO much better than my parents’ new 2008 Civic EX Coupe? The 96 had OE struts with H&R OE Sport springs and Buddy Club P1 camber kits front and back. Otherwise, the suspension was stock. It also had the 15″ wheels for a 98-01 Integra LS with stock sized 195/55/15 Falken Ziex ZE-912 Tires. I think the 08 had some kind of Bridgestone Potenzas or something on it. They were miserable tires. Loud and hard as a rock. They replaced the tires like a year later and problem solved. I don’t remember what they were but they were much quieter and rode far nicer.
What I would likely do in this situation is just find a wheel an inch or 2 smaller and get fatter, all-season passenger tires. While not the quietest tires out there, the Yokohama Avid Ascend LX tires on my HR-V have been reasonably comfortable.
Do you have run flat tires? Because those destroy ride quality. I made the switch to standard Michelin PS4 on my BMW and never looked back.