Diesel technology remains a great way to get a fine mix of fuel economy and power, especially when the diesel engine is found under the hood of a pickup truck. However, diesel fuel is a lot weirder than gasoline and if you don’t treat your tank of diesel in the winter, you can find yourself with a truckload of gelled fuel that can’t be pumped into your engine. Thankfully, lots of companies have come to the rescue with products designed to keep diesel engines running better in the winter. But which brand is the best? It’s time for one of our favorite YouTube channels, Project Farm, to put diesel additives to the test.
If you’ve never driven a diesel vehicle before this may seem foreign to you. A car powered by gasoline may struggle to start when it’s 0 degrees Fahrenheit outside, but the gasoline in your tank will almost certainly still be liquid. Diesels have a much harder time in the same conditions.
Gasoline and diesel fuels work differently. Gasoline engines use spark plugs to ignite the fuel/air mixture. With each fresh charge of fuel and air, a spark jumps across the plug’s gap to ignite the mixture. As you can see in the animation below, a diesel engine appears to operate like a gas engine at first glance: the fuel/air mixture enters the combustion chamber through the intake valve, and once combusted, exits via the exhaust valve.
But you’ll note there’s no spark plug in the animation, because diesel fuel is not ignited by a spark. Instead, the piston highly compresses the fuel/air mixture at the top of the stroke, and this high compression heats the mixture enough to ignite it. This is why diesel engines are called compression ignition engines: They ignite the fuel/air mixture via compression rather than with a spark from a plug.
Now, diesels do have electric plugs, but they are glow plugs, not spark plugs. Glow plugs warm the cylinders to aid ignition when the engine is cold, but once running, the fuel/air mixture is ignited solely by compression. Heck, if you stuck an open flame to untreated diesel fuel, you’d find it hard to actually get it to ignite. Look, don’t ask what I do during the summer (or try this at home).
However, despite this technology, the glow plugs aren’t going to help much if you can’t get fuel to the engine. Diesel fuel is made out of a complex mix of hydrocarbons, but for the purposes of this piece, what matters to us is the paraffin wax contained in diesel fuel. In cold weather, these waxes thicken and crystalize, giving your diesel fuel a consistency like honey. That alone is bad as your pumps can struggle to get the goo to the engine. That can cause engine stuttering and in a worst-case scenario, stalling. In seriously sub-zero conditions, your diesel fuel can freeze into a solid. Your diesel car, truck, or piece of equipment has no chance of starting in that state.
This process is called “gelling” and the exact temperature it starts to happen can vary. Technically, diesel can begin gelling at around freezing temperature, or 32 degrees. However, most consumers won’t be hit from the effects until you’re closer to about 10 to 15 degrees or so. Biodiesel blends are known to thicken at higher temperatures.
Thankfully, modern chemical science means that there is a way to battle gelling. You can buy bottles of additives to dump into your diesel tank that lowers the freezing point of your diesel fuel. In theory, your worries of gelling will be a thing of the past.
Now, putting a bottle of something in your tank to improve the performance of something sounds like snake oil. However, anti-gel is one of those products that does exactly as it says on the sticker. You can even buy a diesel de-icing fluid. Some of these products also make grand claims about improved engine performance as well as enhanced lubrication. Who else than the wonderful host of Project Farm to put these claims to the test.
As a fan of diesel power, I’m familiar with using these products. I used to drive around with several bottles of Hot Shot’s Secret in the backs of my diesels ready to dump in when it was time to get fuel. I’ve always wondered which anti-gel additive was the best.
This Project Farm showdown included diesel anti-gel and diesel de-icing potions from Hot Shot’s, PEAK, Power Service Diesel, Amsoil, Archoil, STA-BIL, Optilube, Howes, Stanadyne, Ford, and Lucas. I loved this selection because you will find most of these brands at pretty much any gas station or truck stop during wintertime. I also dig the addition of the Ford-branded stuff. Is OEM-branded anti-gel any better than the stuff at the gas station?
Personally, of the lineup, I’ve used Howes Diesel Treat, some off-brand additive I’ve found somewhere, and Hot Shot’s Secret Diesel Winter Anti-Gel. In my personal experience, my car always started quicker and with a bit more exuberance when treated with the Hot Shot’s than with the Howes or the generic. But those were just feels and a sample size of a handful of cars. Were my feels even close to being on point?
Our charismatic host begins by telling us the battery of tests he’s going to put the fluids through. The first test is simple enough. Mason jars filled with diesel will get the proper dose of anti-gel and put into a deep freeze, where a winner should be clear. Then, diesel fuel will be put into a sort of opposite test where the emergency de-icing fluids will get a chance to melt frozen diesel.
The other tests cover the bonus features advertised by these products, including fuel system corrosion protection, lubricity, water dispersants, and whether they really do increase the base fuel’s cetane number. The cetane value refers to the combustion speed of the diesel fuel and the compression required to ignite it – the higher the cetane number, the better the fuel’s combustion performance. While these extra features aren’t necessary to keep diesel as a liquid, it’s nice to have some extra benefits.
Something great about Project Farm’s tests is that the host includes a control and often, he’ll toss in a sort of backyard hack. In this case, two-stroke oil is tossed into the mix.
Project Farm starts off the test with untreated diesel. Unsurprisingly, the untreated diesel was the worst performer in the lubricity test and it couldn’t stand up to the bitter cold. I mean, that’s why these additives exist in the first place. The host explains that the process used to reduce the sulfur content in diesel has the unfortunate consequence of also reducing diesel fuel’s lubricity. So, in the lubricity test, which involves some metal-on-metal action, diesel fuel does little to prevent damage. This can simulate the moving parts in your fuel system, which are generally cooled and lubricated with fuel.
A surprising result in this first test was the Lucas anti-gel. A lot of folks use Lucas products. I use them, my wife uses them, and our parents did as well. Yet, the Lucas was no better with lubrication than untreated diesel. However, as Project Farm notes, Lucas didn’t promise any increase in lubrication. Howes advertises increased lubricity and does so with a colorful picture, but delivered only slightly better lubricity than the Lucas additive and the control, with a ton of damage caused to the test media. As someone who used to depend on Howes for my diesel vehicles, that was disappointing.
I won’t spoil the whole test here and you should watch it yourself. Archoil won the lubricity test after causing relatively minimal damage to the test piece. Hot Shot’s finished second with an almost imperceptible larger swath of damage. The most amusing performance was the two-stroke oil. In the lubricity test, it performed better than most of the anti-gel additives, even the ones that claimed to increase lubricity.
Another highly interesting test was the main showdown to determine which anti-gels actually prevented gelling. Surprisingly, the Lucas and Stanadyne anti-gels completely failed, and their fuel examples froze solid. Unsurprisingly, the two-stroke oil did nothing. Peak and Hot Shot’s came out on top with fuel that remained the most liquid. From there, the gauntlet of tests included rust prevention, water dispersal, emergency de-icing, and increases in cetane. Hot Shot’s won most of these tests with Lucas putting in a sad performance, finishing in last place in every test.
In the end, the tests concluded with Hot Shot’s earning a decisive win, performing measurably better at everything than even second place, which was Peak. That’s impressive given Hot Shot’s affordable $17 price, which was about half the price of a handful of the other options.
So, what did we learn here? There are lots of different diesel anti-gels out there, many of which are from storied brands. However, some performed so poorly at their one job that there’s a non-zero chance your diesel engine might not start if you’re using that particular fluid as diesel treatment. Unfortunately, Lucas was the worst performer in the entire test. It didn’t keep the diesel from freezing, didn’t do much better when the dose was doubled, and performed the worst when it came to upping cetane, preventing corrosion, and upping lubricity.
In other words, you should always check reviews and tests of products, including ones by popular name brands. You never know if a brand known for making good products creates something that’s far behind the rest of the pack.
One thing is for sure, diesel anti-gel isn’t snake oil! As always, if you want to learn something new about a tool you have in your shed or maybe about a tool, an automotive fluid, a battery, or something else along those lines, I highly recommend giving Project Farm a watch. The tests are entertaining and who knows, maybe you might learn that a product isn’t as you expected.
(Photo credits: Project Farm/YouTube)
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I had a 1980 Pontiac Catalina Diesel. New Hampshire. Got it new went 120,000 un eventful miles. I New England the truck stops carried only Siloo for treatment. No starting issues …with the after market heater installed in the lower radiator hose. Slow starting when the snow squeaked under your boots ….if you know, you know!
Back when I owned a TDI, I bought a case of Stanadyne, based on the advice of members of TDIClub.com.
I didn’t live in a particularly cold area, but it’s disappointing that I wasted money on an inferior product.
Funny, I just finally finished watching this video last night. Took me a few days because I kept passing out in bed! I love this though – and it’s relevant since I drive a diesel as well. Just started mine this morning in 9 degree F without an issue and didn’t have anti-gel in the tank, but I’m tempted to add some of that Hot Shot’s Secret stuff just in case it gets worse this winter.
I’m not usually a fan of these additives, but I’ve experienced the LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver’s utility first-hand (stopped a weep/leak at my upper oil pan seal) so I think there are some benefits to some of these solutions in a can. Luckily we have Project Farm to test them!
LiquiMoly’s engine flush fixed the hydraulic lifter tick in my 300SDL. It was a hail Mary on an engine with 317k miles, but by the fuck, it worked beautifully!
The main thing you should know as a diesel owner is that pump diesel is already treated to withstand any temperatures normally experienced by the region where the station is located. The further north you go the lower temps the diesel can handle.
For example, around me the pumps all say the diesel is treated to -20F IIRC. 3 or 4 hours north of here it’s -30 or -40.
Basically, unless you’re in an arctic expedition or experiencing historically cold temperatures for your area, you probably don’t need this. I guess also if you have a tank of diesel you bought in July and haven’t used up by January.
I can confirm that my local diesel is good down to -18 at least, which is the coldest temperature I ever had to start my truck in.
Same with all fuels being blended with additives when temps change. They don’t want to run into issues in their own tanks and lines either.
I used to be able to discern that point where my local station would swap to their winter-blend when I had an abrupt fuel economy hit. But seems far less noticeable now (either better blends, or my current car handles it better)
That’s a good note! In my experience in my particular area, you cannot always trust that you’re going to get good stuff when you roll up to the pump. Notably, some of the small-town gas stations near me might not get their winter blend diesel in time. But usually, the pump diesel works without issue. I’ve mainly only had problems when things got unseasonably cold, like last year’s super-duper deep freeze! My TDI sounded like a Cummins starting on mornings that week…
I’m also jealous that your pumps even tell you about the winter blend. In my area they just say you’re getting a 10% biodiesel blend. The gasoline pumps make no mention of winter blend, either. Might be an Illinois thing?
Edit: Oh yeah, I’m also one of those weirdos who drive my diesels infrequently enough that some of them do have summer diesel in the winter and vice versa.
I could swear I’ve seen maps that show what different areas of the country winterize their diesel to, but my Google-fu is failing me so maybe I imagined it.
I’m in Minnesota and that’s mostly where I’ve filled up in the winter, so it could be a state-specific thing.
But you’re working on this problem at least! One day you’ll get there.
I’m in Alaska and used to do field work as an environmental scientist in temperatures as low as -20F. I never even gave a thought to the possibility of gelling diesel, though I often chose the ’96 F-350 Power Stroke work truck. That the anti-gelling additive is already added makes sense. Otherwise, you’d probably have trouble just filling your tanks here.
As a Canadian diesel tech that has changed his fair share of frozen filters and gelled tanks, I can say that this is not always the case.
I always used PowerService additive in my diesels. VW, Peugeot, and Mercedes. never any issues starting in the winter in Maine.
My luxury student accommodation in Moscow in the late 1970’s overlooked a bus station, the Soviet solution to this problem was effective and simple. A galvanized bucket full of rags, old sump oil and vodka and set on fire and pushed under each bus with a big stick. The minor inconvenience of the outside of the bus being coated in sticky soot and the terrible smell were nothing really. Moscow in January 1979 was,
………….Interesting.
Great article and good reminder that my Kubota is sitting outside with a 1/4 tank of summer diesel and it’s <20 F. Time to fill it with winter diesel.
Well, I’m glad to see the results generally mirrored my experience with anti-gel additives when I owned a Duramax in Minnesota. I used Hot Shot in the winter and Power Service in the summer, based on a recommendation of a coworker who was formerly a diesel mechanic. I was also glad to sell the Duramax when I no longer needed it, because praying the anti-gel and glow plugs were doing their things when it was -20 outside (and -20 inside the truck) wasn’t much fun.
I didn’t know that this is apparently something that some diesel owners actually do. More people buying two-stroke oil means that it’s more likely to remain in production, so I’m in full support of this application.
I was actually adding 2-stroke in my 12v Cummins for additional lubricity for a while when I first got it but then switched over to Opti-lube as it was a bit cheaper since I didn’t have to add as much vs the 2 stroke.
No, see, that doesn’t help my situation at all. You should definitely switch back to using two-stroke oil, or at least switch back to buying it.
Haha well I still need two stroke for my chainsaw and weedwacker
Every little bit helps.
Except Lucas, apparently.
On my VW TDI I ran OptiLube for years. I have no idea how any of the others would do, as I only have experience with OptiLube, but with my very unscientific methods of comparing tanks ran with and without the additive, it always improved my fuel economy enough to justify the cost (and minor hassle) of adding it to each tank.
A coworker always asked how I got such good fuel economy (he had the same year and model vehicle, just one trim level nicer) compared to him, but he never wanted to try additives.
One of my favorite channels on YouTube. I always watch his videos before getting new tools and additives and so on. I currently use opti-lube in my 12v Cummins to add lubricity to the fuel since the ultra-low sulfur diesel that is out now can cause pre-mature failure of the fuel pumps on old diesels.
Funfact: This is also how Newman’s Own Olive Oil Vinaigrette comes out of the fridge so nicely. We all knew he was a gearhead.
Yeah, but the low-sulfur dressing doesn’t have the same pep as original.
Plus he was kinda forced into that whole collab with Russell Simmons on DEF Salad Jam.
Yeah but which brand additive do they use? I mean obviously not Lucas but who?
So question from someone who moved to a warmer climate before dealing with tractor engines.
Where do you put the emergency de-icing additive? If you pour it in the tank, the tank might re-liquefy, but wouldn’t the fuel lines still be frozen? Are you supposed to use it in conjunction with other methods like block heating, hot coals under the vehicle, etc…?
I would say that is correct but the additive should really be added to the tank before hitting those cold temperatures. Also in the northern states stations switch over to winter blends to help with gelling.
I have an upcoming Pennsylvania trip with the IDI swap and people just said to fill up at a local station when I get there and it should be fine. Will still keep some potions handy just in case.
Probably want to make sure you fill up before you even get to the destination, when the motor’s nice and hot. Like don’t plan to get there, park, do some stuff, crash for the night, then fill it the next morning.
When my old diesel broke down on me and I had to leave it overnight where I couldn’t plug the block heater in, I put a bottle & 1/2 of Hot Shot in the tank, then saved the other 1/2 for when I came back the next day to put some in the fuel filter. I jacked the car up & ran a MAP gas torch back & forth along the fuel lines till they were warm to the touch.
-126 chassis Mercedes: not sure about more modern stuff.
Oh: the Mercedes manual said to mix kerosene in with the fuel in below-freezing conditions. I don’t remember the ratio now, though
Kerosene is traditionally the main additive in “winter blend” diesel. The two are closely related; kerosene comes out just a little further along in the refining process. Technically, a diesel engine will run on kerosene, but kerosene’s lower BTU content means poorer power and fuel economy. (And guess what — winter blends tend to have poorer fuel economy and power delivery. Running a diesel in the dead of winter in the northern latitudes is kind of all-around miserable, really.)
Other fun facts — diesel is essentially the same as home heating oil. And for oil heat users in the North whose tanks are outdoors, they have to switch to kerosene in the winter. And if your oil service is getting behind on deliveries and the tank is running low, you can dump in some diesel or kerosene, depending on needs, to keep your house warm. Ahh, the lessons of living through northern New England winters.
I started with the diesel 126 because I could make my own fuel, so I was using gasoline to thin the used veggie oil. Also had gasoline cars concurrently, so really didn’t get into winter blends much.
Funny: I was ok with trying to argue that Va law did NOT state what concentrations constituted an additive, but was NOT willing to be caught with red dye in my tank (untaxed or heating oil).
-thanks for the reminder
State DOT’s take dyed diesel really seriously…
It’s a pain for farmers, because they can run their tractors all day on dyed “off-road” diesel and drive them on the roadside (Some states require them to have a plate to touch the pavement, but they don’t worry about the fuel in them.) But a bigger farm truck that spends most of its time puttering around the farm fields better not get caught with the stuff — nope, it has to drive all the way into town to fill up to stay legal.*
*Unless the state’s DOT relaxes inspection requirements for “Ag” plates, in which case they can sometimes get away with “off-road” diesel depending on enforcement. In some states, though, they send out police to spot check farm trucks during harvest season to catch ones running dyed fuel. They’re touchy about it because fuel taxes in a lot of states send money into the highway patrol’s and DOT inspectors’ operating budgets…
IIRC from when I had a w123 diesel, Mercedes had a mixing ratio for gasoline to diesel as well. Been years, but a gallon per tank sticks in my mind. Also amused me that they had instructions for push-starting the automatic in there as well.
I really want another w123 wagon, though a 280TE, not another 300TD (and mine was the NON-turbo for extra fun).
I loved my 300TD: I declared it my forever car. Lowered and purple with color-matched 16” Ronals from a later AMG. But, time moves on, and I wanted a lighter manual rather than that cruiser.
I would have loved a turbo-diesel 300TD, but mine was a ’79. Too slow, and for me to say that means it was SLOW. And unfortunately, a friend of mine had a gray-market w123 280E sedan – and once you have driven one with THAT delightful twin-cam motor, the diesels lose a lot of their appeal.
What sucks is there is a BEAUTIFUL 280TE for sale on eBay right now, at a not completely ridiculous price, but because I am building a new house I can’t even begin to contemplate buying it. Will have to suffer along with my s212 350E wagon for a while longer.
Usually get it inside if it’s frozen up.
Waaaayyyy up north, they leave em running all winter unless it’s in a shop. The return flow of diesel keeps the tanks warmed up.