I’ve been wanting an old American car for years and thanks to the legendary Stephen Walter Gossin, I’m finally pulling the trigger on a classic. Soon, I will be driving about a thousand miles out to North Carolina to rescue a 1948 Plymouth Special DeLuxe based only on Gossin’s pictures and videos. I have no actual idea what I’m doing and I’m excited about it.
Most of our readers know that I’m a caretaker of several unreliable German cars. However, I’ve long had a soft spot for vintage Americana. I’m the kind of person who would love to take some old American iron down Route 66. Sadly, now that I have driven most of Route 66 and discovered that there isn’t a ton of the original road remaining, I now know my dream can’t happen the way I picture it.
Still, I dream of hopping behind the wheel of a car much older than I am and just setting off toward the sunset. This is why a lot of Mercedes’ Marketplace Madness contains vintage American cars. Those are cars I’d love to hit the blacktop in! David Tracy gave me a taste of my dream by letting me drive his old rusty Valiant around Detroit.
I didn’t care that the windshield threatened to frost over and the old Valiant had relatively few horses left in its stable, it was one of the more memorable drives in my life. I need another hit of that classic car driving.
At the same time, I’m an avid viewer of Vice Grip Garage. I’ve been watching Derek Bieri rescue old cars for longer than I’ve been writing professionally. I’ve been a VGG fan for longer than I’ve even known my wife. In addition to my dreams of driving a fantastic vintage American car, I’ve long wanted to get one back running again with my own two hands. Thanks to Stephen Walter Gossin and a fella in North Carolina, it’s time to make dreams come true.
The Car
So, Gossin has found a compound of old cars out in North Carolina. There are enough cars out there that each of the Autopian staff could have a car of their own to save. While many of them are vintage American steeds, the elderly man who owns them also had his hands on cute French cars and even a German motorcycle.
Each of these cars has a story, as does the man himself. I still don’t really know the full details yet, but you bet both Gossin and I will tell you everything because the stories of a car’s owner are just as touching as the car itself.
For now, what you need to know is that the guy is a real enthusiast and loved these cars dearly. However, the man’s health is declining and he’s no longer able to keep his beloved fleet alive. The vehicles parked on his property haven’t run in around five or seven or so years and nature in North Carolina is trying to reclaim them as their own.
Gossin and I want to continue the stories of at least two of the cars. You’ll hear about his rescue in time. I’m not going to spoil any of it because it has more twists and turns than an M. Night Shyamalan film. For now, let’s look at what will hopefully be my loot in a week or two of time.
What you’re looking at here is a 1948 Plymouth Special DeLuxe. Production of the Special DeLuxe started in the 1930s as the upmarket sibling to Plymouth’s lower sixes. Like much of the rest of the automotive industry, Plymouth paused production after 1942 to aid in the World War II effort.
After the war, production of civilian models ramped back up. The vehicles constructed immediately after the war had minor updates, but were otherwise pre-war cars. That didn’t stop America’s automakers from finding ways to drum up interest in their vehicles. Plymouth said its post-war models were “Four Years Better Than Before” and that it was “Chrysler Corporation’s Number One Car.”
Plymouth was particularly proud of how quiet the 95 HP 217.8 cubic inch L-Head straight-six was and how reliably it started with just the flick of the ignition. The automaker also said it moved the spark coil to the top of the engine, allowing for shorter wires to the distributor and better spark.
Then there’s the design, where Plymouth touted the vehicle’s stainless steel trim and grille. The hood ornament is also interesting as it is a mix of chrome and plastic. Stepping up to the Special DeLuxe added sun visors, a glove box, full windshield wipers, and neat third window vents for four-door sedans, which had sweet rear-hinged doors.
The one out in North Carolina seems like a great project. Gossin has been on the ground with a camera and found a lot of good news. Yes, the car has all kinds of dirt, grime, and growth on it, but Gossin tells me the body is remarkably solid and the frame underneath also looks really good. You can tell that the owner loved this car and tried to keep it in tip-top shape. He couldn’t find any obvious bad rust and even the floor appears to be all there. This isn’t like a Midwest car with structural carpet and a Swiss cheese frame. I bet one good wash will bring out something pretty decent, too. Even the white wall tires are still holding wind.
Of course, not everything is perfect. Gossin tells me the car is missing a headliner, the dashboard is pretty worn, and the overall interior is a bit past its prime. But you know what? I’ll take putting in a new headliner and having the seats recovered over trying to fix a frame with holes in it. Something else promising is the claim that the vehicle last ran five years ago. This isn’t like a true VGG-style rescue where the car hasn’t run in three decades. I wouldn’t be surprised if cleaning the carburetor and the fuel tank gets it running again.
Oh, I’m getting excited again. I asked Gossin to go ahead and lock in that car for me. I don’t care that I haven’t seen it with my own eyes, I want it. This is the gangster-looking classic I want to finish this summer driving.
The Plan
Alright, so I like making plans. They rarely go as I expect, but at least I tried, right?
Gossin is putting the pieces together for the car he wants to save from the compound. Again, I’m not spoiling the details, but when all of that work is finished, we’ll both descend onto the North Carolina property to liberate our chosen cars. Jason will be joining us for an awesome Autopian crossover episode.
Now, I’ve never purchased a car that doesn’t run, so this is new territory for me. My wife recommended we do things exactly as Derek from VGG does. If you’re not familiar with this strategy, I’ll explain. Derek often arrives on location with a bunch of tools and the expectation of driving the vehicle hundreds of miles back home. He is then forced to get the car working just good enough to drive the 500 or 800 or so miles back to Tennessee.
It makes for a high level of entertainment and is inspiring, too. Derek’s cars often feed fuel from boat tanks placed in passenger floorboards and stop with brakes cobbled together.
I’m not sure I want to go that nuts on my first-ever car rescue. Derek knows what he’s doing and he also often has places to store a car if it doesn’t make it all of the way home. If we broke down in that Plymouth we’d be stuck who knows where for who knows how long. The car’s located in Garner, at least 865 miles and over 14 hours from home. The routes served up by Google Maps change every time I look up the drive, so I’m expecting somewhere around 900 miles each way.
My plan is to come down with a truck and a U-Haul car hauler, and then hand the fella $1,000 for the new-to-me ride. I might try to get the Plymouth started just for giggles, but it’s coming back home on the trailer. In case I can’t get the car started right there, I’ll be bringing a trailer ball-based electric winch. I’ve watched David suffer with come-alongs for long enough to feel like I’ll take my chances with an underpowered electric winch. Besides, I’ll have Sheryl and Stephen to help the winch along, too.
From there, I’ll bring the Plymouth back home, where it’ll get a deep clean before I even pop open the power barn. I already have a space picked out for the Plymouth — the one previously taken up by a nightmare Volkswagen Passat TDI wagon — where I’ll turn some wrenches. With luck, maybe I could get the car running and driving before the end of the summer.
Speaking about getting the car running, I recently discovered that the Special DeLuxe is not only a 6-volt car, but the electrical system is configured in such a way that the vehicle’s ground is positive rather than negative. From what I can tell, this will mean needing to be careful with what I’m doing under the hood, but it shouldn’t be a dealbreaker. I should be able to convert the car later on, anyway.
So, that’s my plan. I’m going to drive down, hope to load this vintage iron onto a trailer and clean it all up back here in Illinois. I don’t want to go crazy with modifications or anything like that, but to enjoy the Special DeLuxe as the classic it is. This car has a story and I want to preserve it. It’s even going to be put into a garage for the first time in years.
Am I Missing Anything?
Alright, here’s where I turn things to you.
I’ve rescued plenty of barn-find motorcycles to have a decent idea of what I’m doing, but I’ve never done this with a car before. I’ve also never owned a vehicle older than 1972, either. As I want to be as prepared as I can be, I want to know what I should consider. Am I missing anything in my plans? Is there something I need to know about a car from the 1940s?
Regardless of what happens, I’m stoked. I’ve been planning this trip for about three months now and it’s finally about to happen. I’m going to own my first truly old car! Big thanks are due to both David and Stephen of course. With luck, you’ll spot me driving around Chicagoland in more than just Smart Fortwos and crusty VeeDubs.
I love old American iron like this too, and would love to have one one day. My ideal is a ’53 Chevy sedan, as that’s what my grandmother drove from 1953 all the way up to her death in 1987. There’s one here in Chicago that I’d probably buy in a minute if I knew it was for sale and if I had any play-with-cars money left.
A car like this is really simple, and not hard to work on. You already found out about the 6V positive-ground electrical system. It may have left-handed threads on the left-side wheel studs – I think Chrysler started doing that just before the war. Change all the fluids, drain and replace the gas, maybe rebuild the carb, check the brake shoes and wheel cylinders, lube the chassis. Not a lot to it.
Steven, what else does he have? Any early 50s GM cars?
8 total cars, all Plymouths and DeSotos from ’46-’48. Mercedes is taking the best one (it was driven to its parking spot right before the pandemic), but the next-best is a “ran when parked” Fluid Drive DeSoto for $500. Comes with an extra engine and transmission, generator, wheels, radio, etc.
The seller is legit and is a true Autopian. He doesn’t have long in this world and is very honest, truthful about the condition of each car/part and has a very limited need for cars or money. It’s sad, but we’re fulfilling his wishes in a way so that these cars aren’t scrapped unceremoniously.
I’m super fired up and pumped for Mercedes being able to make a small part of her dream come true!
The elderly gentlemen that owns the property is in the sunset phase of life and has keys and titles for all cars shown in the background. $500 each and they’re all complete, are rust-free Southern cars, a few will run (with fresh gas/carb clean/fluids) and all glass/bodies are good/solid. The guy has a shed with a teal BMW Boxer bike, vacuum tube radios, spare engines, transmissions, wheels, boxes and boxes of parts, etc. for these cars.
The goal is to prevent as many as possible from going to the local scrapyard. If any Autopian friends are nearby and have $500, excellent taste in cars and a sense of adventure then come join us!
If I may ask, what can you tell me about the BMW bike?
And are the contents of the shed for sale as well?
It’s teal, it’s complete, it’s been sitting in a shed on the property for years. The owner was an NYC motorcycle cop that used to be an officer of the 2-wheeled police escorts for those famous enough to warrant one.
Everything is for sale, since the owner will be moving to an assisted living facility shortly. He and I talked for hours and he is looking for Autopians such as us to take over where he’s leaving off with his collection.
All my social media contact info is in my profile and on all my articles – message me and I can send picts. Prices are stupid low since money has a lesser meaning in that stage of life. He just wants to see them go to folks that can appreciate them.
I am SSSOOOOO tempted and I am not far away in VA. But, I love my spouse more than cars!
Such potential, since it’s mostly all there making it as original as possible would make it a dream car for me. However your car, your dream, just have fun.
I’m the former Plymouth owner of a ‘49 business coupe and a ‘50 Special Deluxe. NAPA still carries parts for these. Here’s some things I know:
Vacuum wipers stop when you press the gas. The master cylinder is under the driver’s floorboard and connected directly to the brake pedal. An eight volt battery is a way to get more power to start it without changing everything out. I second the left side backwards lugnut comment, a tire shop employee broke one off for me. Come to a stop, shift into neutral before first because there’s no synchros in low gear. The cars are dead simple and there’s a lot of room under the hood. You’ll have fun.
Get a spare fan belt and radiator hoses and keep them in the trunk.
Great suggestion for a first time post war auto owner. The reverse lugs throw off a lot of tire shops! haha
That’s about the right age to be a Fluid Drive. Read up on it if that’s the case. The radio is going to full of vacuum tubes, too.
Given the storage conditions, don’t be surprised if the brakes and/or clutch are seized.
This is going to be a bigger project than you think, but it’ll be worth it.
Having bought a non-running 60-year-old vehicle out of a backyard last year, I fully endorse this plan. As Scoutdude said below, there’s a method to getting it to fire over; take your time and be patient with it.
Bottom line: if I could get my truck to run, you can get that straight six to run. I expect a detailed series of writeups from the both of you.
Mercedes: I really really really need to know what the French cars are. Hope to
See you at EAA
Okay.
Okay.
Listen.
Hardigree just got rid of his Subaru and bought a new car. It’s obviously going to be something safe and reliable.
So now he has to get something to generate content.
I’m proposing we get a list of what’s available and do a Shitbox Showdown: Hardibro Edition.
We can even take up a collection to buy it for him. I’m in for $20.
WHO’S WITH ME?!?!
Personally I’d make sure that it ran before handing over money and putting it on the trailer. It isn’t like you are likely to find a good running engine at a reasonable price that will drop right in if this one is too far gone. Rebuilding the engine won’t be cheap or quick.
#1 disconnect the fuel line at the pump inlet and plug.
#2 remove the plugs and maybe spray a little WD-40 or similar in the hole.
#3 determine if the oil pressure gauge is mechanical by looking for a small copper tube leading from somewhere on the block through the firewall. It will have a number of loops near the firewall to allow for the engine to move w/o fatiguing it.
#4 put in a new/fully charged 6v battery and crank it. If the oil pressure gauge is mechanical watch it while you crank. Once you see the needle move up a bit you can stop cranking.
#5 inspect the plugs and if good enough reinstall or put new ones in.
#6 give it a shot of starting fluid, give it a crank and see what happens.
#7 If it doesn’t start or act like it is going to start after 3 or 4 tries it is time to diagnose the ignition.
If the points ended up open when the engine stopped they may be corroded a couple of swipes of 120 or finer sand paper will do the trick as will an emery board.
The only issue with negative ground is making sure that you hook the battery up properly. Being 6v you aren’t going to by jumping it with another car or jumper box so pretty much the only time you could get yourself in trouble is when installing the battery.
With a modern multi meter when diagnosing the electrical it will just put a (-) in front of the reading when you instinctively put the meter’s (-) lead on the body and the (+) on the wire you are checking, no harm done.
It sounds like it’s cheap, and 5 years isn’t that long for a car to sit. Buying non-running cars sounds like something you don’t do on a regular basis. 🙂
Yeah 5 years is not that long and if it truly “ran when parked” then it will probably run without much effort.
For years I pretty much only bought non-running cars 2-4 per year, many that needed major work, like an engine or transmission. However there is a big difference in that I was doing it with vehicles that could easily be found in junkyards at the time or at least newer vehicles that had the same engine family and/or transmission. Most of the parts one might commonly need were also on the shelf at the local parts store, or available next day from the local warehouse.
Which is why I’d want to be sure that this thing has a basically functional engine and hopefully rest of the drivetrain if the goal is to be driving it this summer, and not dump a bunch of money into it right of the bat.
My point about the $500 price tag is that it changes negotiation strategy a lot.
What are you gonna do if you can’t get it to run? What are you gonna do if you find out the engine needs to be completely rebuilt? It’s not like you’re gonna walk away from that deal, it’s still worth way more than $500 even if it does need an engine job.
There’s no point in withholding payment or commitment until you can hear it run. It’s a smoking deal even if it doesn’t.
As I mentioned below prices for cars like this do vary by location but as a non runner I don’t think it is a screaming deal at $1000 unless someone’s got a very specific itch for a 48 Plymouth 4dr.
The big thing you are leaving out of this equation is that Mercedes hopes to be driving it this Summer. I’m betting that means out on actual roads for more than a once around the block kind of thing so knowing that it at least yard drives is a huge step in meeting that goal.
Buying an old car for $500 is like buying a dog- you end up loving it and buying the dog is the cheap part.
Also, for $500 it doesn’t matter if it runs or not. If you decide that buying a new engine is necessary and you don’t want to, someone will buy you out for $500- making it more or less a wash.
“Buying an old car for $500 is like buying a dog- you end up loving it and buying the dog is the cheap part.” That was my point, the purchase is going to be the cheap part if it isn’t really a runner. This also isn’t a $500 car, according the article the price on this one is double that $1,000. Then since it is almost 1,000 miles away you can probably double that price for the truck and trailer rental, fuel, battery, lodging ect.
So no if it doesn’t run it won’t sell for what it took to get it home.
You think this car wouldn’t sell for $2000? You must not spend as much time on Facebook Marketplace as I do.
Well prices to vary depending on location but I don’t think this would sell for $2k, in non running condition, in my neck of the woods. It has too many doors for most old car buyers and the crowd that wants one like they or their ancestor owned back in the day are either dead or have enough money to buy one in much better condition.
You know about left-hand thread lug nuts on the left side? Likely so, but worth mentioning. I’m looking forward to the follow up to this.
Also, most of your electrical system goes through that ammeter gage: probably a good idea to take a look at that wiring before hooking a battery up. You may well need a mirror to see back there.
Hmm. I’m like five and a half hours away… when are you all doing this?
thats a BIG project. id advise not attempting to start it until you’ve had a good look over, fresh coolant, fuel and oil, etc.. id maybe pour some seafoam or MMM in the cylinders before you tow it home, in the hopes that if the rings are stuck, they might unstick by the time you’re ready…. 6 volt pos systems are unintuitive to work with, and if its going to be a driver, converting it to 12V neg ground is the same amount of work, better, and easier to deal with. with the amount of rust on that dash, dont expect gauges/switches to work… fortunately most of it will be able to be taken apart, cleaned, lubed and put back together…. which goes for the rest of the car. congrats on you’re new project!
The dashboard looks pretty rusty and will need to be thoroughly cleaned up and re-painted, or the rust will just keep coming back.
And if the original factory finish was imitation woodgrain — which was not uncommon on high-end versions of cars even then — you’ll need to get acquainted with something called Di-Noc from 3M — which is either what was originally used or very similar to it. It’s basically a vinyl decal film applied over the metal.
If the dashboard can be taken out completely, then hydro-dip film might be a modern alternative, but the underlying finish will have to be perfect, or every little imperfection will show through. Industrial films like Di-Noc are thicker and will give a factory-style finish.
Oh yes, I’m hoping the dashboard isn’t a total catastrophe, but that’s going to be something I’ll want to tackle early on. From the looks of the pics SWG sent me, it looks like the guy was in the middle of a DIY resto and his health declined before he could tackle the interior.
Thank you for the advice!
It really just looks like surface rust brought on by old, porous paint or coating combined with moisture build-up. It can be sanded/ground down to bare metal easily enough; the hard part is carefully removing all the trim. Better if it can be removed entirely, but if not, then it’s going to have to be done in-place. Including the back. (I’d suggest hiring a small contortionist for that task…) If it’s non-removable, then the back can be handled with wire-brushing, sanding, cleaning, and POR-15 — especially if you’re not going for concours restoration. But you’ll want the front nicely cleaned up and painted (and woodgrain-coated, if applicable to that model)
Jason: David is waxing poetic about BMWs, buying cars that won’t rust, and has a girlfriend. We’re doomed!
Beau: No. There is another….
I knew a guy in HS who regularly drove his grandfather’s very nice and very similar ’38 and I spent a good amount of time in it and it was a great car. Dirt simple to work on and torquey so that it felt surprisingly capable in modern (OK, ’90s) traffic and even on the highway. Of course, I wouldn’t call it fast, but its 85 hp (95 in this one) peaked at only around 3600 rpm, so it got off the line and up hills just fine. Don’t know where you’d get the right upholstery material, assuming the later cars were the same kind of mouse hair, but I highly recommend it if it’s correct and you can get it for something resembling a reasonable price. I remember at the time there was a big worry about unleaded fuel in old engines causing valve seat recession and he used to mix lead additive in it for a bit until he gave up on it and, AFAIK, it didn’t hurt anything. Tracy’s newest Wrangler (or probably newer than whatever that is) would feel like it’s 100 years older and less civilized than the Plymouth. If I wanted another car, I’d maybe have something like that and they’re surprisingly reasonable to buy. Parts availability? No idea, but at least there aren’t many parts and they were usually designed to be rebuilt. Oh, and the vintage radio is awesome!
You can and should replace the valve seats with modern hardened ones. Plenty of machine shops can do that for you. I had to have that done when rebuilding my ’66 Thunderbird’s engine for the sake of ensuring longevity, as the old soft ones will wear out much faster without lead additive and then you have low compression, crappy performance, and horrible fuel economy.
Fortunately, many old cars have had this done already. That Plymouth may have already had this done, we don’t know. If it starts running like crap in the near future, that would simply be a thing to check, as it will run for a while at least with the softer valve seats.
The one I was familiar with definitely had not had hardened valve seats as it was a discussed as a solution in case there was a problem when he stopped bothering with additive. It’s not like it was driven a lot, either, so maybe he had to have it done at some point since. Either way, certainly didn’t look to be a tough job to remove and replace the head after sending it out.
As a funny note, there was an economy version of that engine that was something like 5.2 compression. The standard one was 6.5 (I think).
Those under-floor master cylinders are sure fun.
“There are enough cars out there that each of the Autopian staff could have a car of their own to save”
No fucking thanks.
Preach Brother!!!!!
I mean, what isn’t goth about that car? Surely there’s another on that property. 😉
Look at me. Do I look like someone who enjoys manual labor? Someone who likes getting his hands literally dirty? I do not.
Meet up meet up!!! You’re gonna drive like 2 miles from my house
I would expect getting the engine to crank over will be the easy part of all this, those Chrysler flathead sixes are pretty tough, and they are balance a wine glass on top smooth when running right
Please tell me there will be period-correct clothing involved. Like you’ll bring your fancy hat in a box, SWG will have a pipe, Torch in a bowtie seems about right, etc.
This sounds like a necessity
That’s awesome! Congrats! Can’t wait to see stories of the build(s).
Joining the growing chorus of readers who look forward to your build reports.
Pictures always look better than real life, but that said, this seems to be remarkably complete. Even the upholstery is intact, which is a miracle. No busted glass, which is another miracle.
Trailering the car home is the wise choice given you’re unfamiliar with that vintage and mark. On the other hand, if you had a film crew, an off-camera mechanic versed in 1940s Dodges, and Amazon Studios money behind you, then trailering would not be an option.
It was 11 PM, many miles from Gila Bend, AZ, when the Volvo engine went “soft”. Pitch dark, no lights from civilization could be seen. And I said to my wife: “Unlike Roadkill, there is not a van with the photographers following us.”
We got within 100 miles from home and arrived at 3 AM on an AAA rollback truck.
Russ
I have altered the plan, pray I do not alter it further… 🙂 Did you know this is less than an inch off the wheelbase of a bronco raptor? I’ve even found a suitable donor for you, only rolled once:
https://www.copart.com/lot/52150934/salvage-2023-ford-bronco-raptor-az-phoenix-north
That’s an excellent foundation. 🙂
The 6V positive ground system will be a little odd, as you indicated, though not insurmountable. From a preparation perspective, it will affect the lightning cube and the charging whirler at a minimum, but if you have the ignition sticks that will definitely simplify things (rather than hotwiring an unfamiliar configuration). Even if the tires hold wind while stationary, I wouldn’t take any bets as to how long they’ll do so while moving; if possible, maybe take a set of pick+pull wheels and tires with you to make it roll on to the trailer more easily. A set of sparkalators wouldn’t be a bad idea, either, just in case – they might be an odd size or specification.
I’m really looking forward to reading about this!!
PS The price: daaaaaaamn!! 😮
lightning cube
charging whirler
ignition sticks
sparkalators
You’re effing with us, right?
You’ve never seen Vice Grip Garage obviously
My personal favorite is fuel make-it-happener.
Yep! Best to feed that with a clicky-clacky.
And don’t forget the Lone Wolf 3000 for all your starting needs.
Friend, you’re in for a treat: https://www.youtube.com/@ViceGripGarage
Find a car/truck/drivetrain you like and watch a feller (Derek Bieri) bring it back to life.
Also https://www.youtube.com/c/BadObsessionMotorsport/videos
The slow 8 year work on ‘Project Binky’ that you can now watch over a weekend or two. is excellent.
You’re right, he didn’t even mention the lightning hoses!
I’m looking forward to cleaning it up! I bet there’s still maybe a little shine under all of that grime. Also, yes, I do have original ignition sticks and a title! That, plus that rock-bottom price, made me an immediate yes before I even had a plan to get it. 🙂
That was an unbelievable deal and I would have done the same thing!
I was just looking at the Plymouth’s bodywork again. That is going to be the most satisfying power-washing session in the history of power and washing.
I’ve asked SWG if he has any more info on the BMW bike and on the stuff in the shed. Purely out of intellectual curiosity, of course. 🙂
I’m totally going to film the cleanup process! I might even buy some of that VGG shine juice to see how well it works. 🙂
The bike is a ’90s R100R. It looks pretty nice from the pictures, but probably hasn’t run in at least a decade
Hey Mercedes. I’m the guy SWG talked into… I mean gave info to about buying one of the DeSotos lol. I cannot explain how excited I am to bust out the pressure washer. It’s amazing how easy you can come up with a plan when you want something. Just hate I won’t be able to make it on the same day as y’all.
“Lord…. help me understand”
That is such an awesome car! I can’t wait to see what you do with it!
I once owned a ‘53 Dodge pickup with a ‘59 Plymouth engine. The flat head six in old Dodges and Plymouths is awesome! They do idle very quietly and start easily, just as you mention above. This should be great fun!
If you’re willing and able to add a few miles and come through Southeast VA you can come drive my Peugeot 306 if I still have it by then. Depending on how well it’s driving I might be able to meet up somewhere closer to your route.
Owned a 1940 Hudson. You will have fun with how they designed things back then. They are easy to drive and the motor placement takes the weight off the wheels so it is easy to turn when parking. Well that and it is 57 turns from lock to lock.
I agree with not trying to start it. Those engine blocks can fill with rust. That risks clogging a water way, over heating a small section and damaging the block. When I flushed mine was amazed at the amount of debris that came out. Also agree with the eight volt battery. Love the sound of the six V starter. Good quality points are difficult to find and worth the effort. Adjust the valves. An often neglected service. Read up on driving flat heads. A burned valve is a pain and can usually be avoided.
One of my favorite tasks was painting the dash. A few good videos on U tube showing how to do the wood grain. Took me three tries and was quite pleased with the results.
Not uncommon for folks to pull in front of me and then brake. They had no concept of older car brakes.
Though it could keep up with freeway traffic I kept to roads it was built for, surface streets.
Mine was all stock and mostly original. Kids loved climbing in and pretending to drive. You will need to make the same choice. Restore it and live in fear or have it be good enough and enjoy it.