Four weeks. That’s all the time I have to turn the cars you see in the photo above — two dilapidated late 1960s Chrysler Valiant utes (a “ute” is essentially a pickup version of a car, for those not in the know) — into something that can not only handle a 400 mile drive to the wildest and largest Ute show on earth but also sneak through Australia’s rigorous inspection. If you looked at the image above and thought to yourself “four weeks ain’t enough, Dave,” then you’re preachin’ to the choir. I know, and I’m worried. But also excited. Let’s talk about the task at hand.
I can’t believe I’m just three days from my trip to Australia, a place I’ve only ever seen in my dreams — dreams that have all included the beautiful purr of a Chrysler of Australia-designed “Hemi Six” inline-six engine.
Located in the center of New South Wales near the town of Dubbo sit two absolutely decrepit Chrysler Valiant Utes, one of which I aim to pilot to the Deni Ute Muster, the Burning Man of Australian car shows. If you were to google “Deni Ute Muster,” you’d happen upon videos like the one below, which require you to certify that you’re above the age of 18 to watch. In fact, when I spoke with one of the event’s organizers, she told me: “There are parts of the event that we don’t want the media to see…sometimes our men get a little ‘happy.'” What the hell that means, I don’t know, but I’m both alarmed and fascinated.
I’m not entirely sure how I ended up the owner of two extremely broken cars on a continent I’ve never set foot on. An Autopian reader named Laurence had found me on Instagram during my wild 1958 Willys FC build, and when I bought my 1965 Plymouth Valiant (there was no “Chrysler” Valiant in the U.S.) he reached out to say hello, as he’s a huge fan of the A-body Chrysler vehicles. It turns out, Chrysler Valiants were quite popular in Australia. Per Laurence, when he was younger, there were laws that forbid teens from driving eight-cylinder vehicles, so cars like the Valiant, with its Hemi Six, drew in quite an enthusiast community. Anyway, eventually he sent me a listing for a Valiant Ute, and — since I have very little restraint when it comes to car purchases — I joked with him about buying it on my behalf. He asked if I was serious and I, the mind behind the phrase “Buy First, Think Later,” said “Why the hell not? I’ll figure it out later.” Laurence bought the Kangaroo hunting ute shown on the left below, then a parts Ute a month or two later (on the right), and now it’s officially the “later” that I promised would be accompanied by “think.” So I’m off on Friday to fulfill my end of the deal and begin the thought process.
In fact, I’ve gotten a bit of a jump on that, with the outcome being the realization that the odds are stacked heavily against me, here. Like, heavily.
[Editor’s Note: I like that the ‘should look like’ ute is still pretty beat to shit. – JT]
I fly out on August 26th, and the earliest I can conceivably start working on the cars is the 28th. Even then, I bet I’ll be absolutely exhausted and probably install a distributor 180-degrees off. Hell, that’s a best-case screwup after a 24-hour flight; I’ll be lucky if I don’t drop a starter motor on my head. The Deni Ute Muster shitsho—err, car show, begins on September 30th, giving me 33 days (or just under five weeks) to produce a running, driving, inspected vehicle capable of handling a 400 mile trek from Dubbo to Deniliquin.
That second bit — the “inspected” bit — is the one I’m most concerned about. In the off chance that Laurence and I can turn these rusty hulks into something that can propel itself down the street, we’ve then got to get the local Australian government to sign off on it. I don’t see that happening.
In a way, this project is like a mashup of my 1958 Jeep FC-170 project:
And my diesel manual 1994 Chrysler Voyager project:
I’m basically taking a vehicle in my Jeep’s condition and trying to get it through the rigorous inspection I had to get my much newer, much nicer Chrysler minivan through. What’s more, unlike the two aforementioned projects, this ute undertaking will require me to juggle wrenching with running an entire publication. When was the last time you saw an editor-in-chief of any website fly across the world to wrench on crappy cars for four weeks? Literally never — they’ve got to manage people and make sure that the Jason Torchinskys of the world don’t run amok publishing a bunch of fictional stories about taillight cults. My current plan is to ignore conventional wisdom and just let Jason go ham. What will be left of this website upon my return, I do not know. But of course, I will be around to watch the inevitable blaze as it builds, as my greasy hands will be blogging frequent updates from Down Under.
I really have no idea how I’m going to pull this off, but meticulous planning is going to be step one. Laurence and I (okay, mostly Laurence) have put together a list of parts we’ll need. Here’s a look:
Part | Source | Price | Notes | Status | Extra Notes |
Front Suspension | |||||
Upper control arm bushes | local store | $72 full set | Purchased by DT | ||
Lower control arm bushes | local store | $72 pair | Purchased by DT?? | ||
Strut rod bushes | local store | $32 pair | |||
Ball joints – Upper | local store | $68 pair | Purchased by DT | ||
Ball joints – Lower | local store | $118 pair | |||
Tie rod ends | local store | $120 full set | |||
Pitman Arm | local store | $50 | |||
Idler Arm | local store | $50 | |||
Shocks | local store | $365 | All four corners, Gabriel’s. Also on Ebay for about $259/four | ||
leaf spring bushings | local store | ~$70 | Polyeurethane | Have hanger bushes, just need front eye | |
Wheel bearings – front | local store | $30 ea | |||
wheel cylinders – front | Online | $100 pair | Purchased by DT | ||
wheel cylinders – rear | Ebay | $40 pair | Purchased | ||
Drum brake spring kit | online | $45 per axle | F & R same kit | Purchased | |
Brake flexible hoses | online | $120 | Purchased | ||
Brake master cylinder | Online | $50 USD | Purchased by DT? | DT also acquired distribution block | |
Tyres | local | ~ $85 ea? | 175/70/R14 – Winrun (better than Losewalk?) | ||
resurface flywheel | local store | ~$50 | Carton of Great Northern! | ||
clutch kit | local store | $290 | Inc. throwout bearing | Existing 215 clutch may be okay | |
Clutch linkage kit | online | **Will check what I have here first** | |||
shifter bushings | May need to make up from stuff if req. | ||||
Speedo cable seal | online | $8 | Purchased | ||
Trans rear output seal | online | $20 | Purchased | ||
3-speed man. gasket set | online | $40 | Purchased | ||
rear brake lenses | online | $200 pair | Purchased | ||
front indicator lenses | online | $112 pair | Purchased | ||
radiator | $50 | Big-block radiator, will need testing | Acquired | ||
radiator hoses | local | $52 set | I have a new CL/CM model upper hose we can use | ||
water pump | local | $50 | I have some decent used thermostat housings | ||
Fanbelt | local | $14 | |||
Universal joints | local store | $32 pair | |||
motor mounts | local store | $180 | |||
Trans mount | online | $40 | Purchased | ||
Fuel pickup screen | online | $25 | Purchased | ||
Fuel sender seal & lock ring | online | $18 | Purchased | Will need to save original rubber seal and double-up with new seal | |
Fuel pump | online | $50 | Purchased | ||
Hemi six gasket set | local | $160 | all excl. rear main seal (I have some if needed) | ||
Hemi six crank bolt and washer | online | $35 | not installed as stock! | Out of stock, not entirely necessary | |
Bosch style RE55 voltage regulator | local | $52 | |||
Rebuild parts for Alternator | online | ~$90 | Brand new Alternator approx $350! | Purchased | My mate Gordo should be able to rebuild it in his sleep! |
Seatbelts | Ebay | $278-$295 | Either non-Retractable or Retractable lap/sash plus centre lap | DT to check US stocks? | |
Front windscreen seal | online | $190 | We have two used windscreens to choose from | Purchased | |
Lock set + keys (ign. and doors) | online | $120 | Purchased |
I don’t think I fully understand the scale of this operation, but when I see the utes in-person that should become clear. Expect one of my patented “Here’s Everything Wrong With” posts on Monday. Gulp. (My biggest concern is that seatbelt line-item. Can I just snag a shoulder belt from a U.S. junkyard? $300 Australian seems like a tidy sum for some nylon and some buckles).
I’m excited to be staying with a total stranger in his spider-infested home in rural Australia; the prospect of Laurence potentially harvesting my organs in a damp, meat hook-and-vinyl-curtain-filled cellar isn’t really my biggest concern, all things considered. That’s because I know deep down that trying to get a functional, legal ute made of those two highly dysfunctional utes to the Ute Muster so I can listen to Brad Paisley sing “Mud On The Tires” over the sound of vomiting, half-naked Australians is going to be borderline impossible. I’m actually sweating a bit just thinking about it.
Top-photo credit: Jan Rogers
David,
For God’s sake, take your shoes AND socks off at night this time!
And of course we all know what a ute is. Who do you think we are, Herman Munster?!?
And and what exactly is going “ham?” And will Jason go smoked ham? Canned ham? Honey-baked ham? Let’s hope to hell not Jon Hamm!!!
It can only be steamed ham.
I wanna see Torch go totally Bursar!
Is this too nice? I mean I think you could shake a stick and find a GM drivetrain to swap in and then roll in Party in the Front, work in the back luxury. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2004-holden-ute-s-vz-auto/SSE-AD-13162919/?Cr=2
or even go a little old school 3.8 Buick, manual trans Ute. man I wish we had those in the 90’s
That’s cheap for a VZ, the problems might be worse than indicated. I have a VZ Crewman, the dual cab version of the Commodore ute.
after a week of hell and broken dreams, go buy this Brumby and start a little closer to running and driving
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1982-subaru-brumby-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-13295191/?Cr=0
Remember, on northern hemisphere Chrysler products from the 60s half of the lug nuts turn clockwise and the other half turn counterclockwise, whereas in the southern hemisphere half the lug nuts turn counterclockwise and the other half turn clockwise.
In Australia it’s “righty loosely, lefty tightly”. You’ll get used to it. That and the toilets all swirl the wrong way.
Watch out for the redbacks and snakes, cars tend to be popular resting spots apparently.
You need a name for this project. I propose Kankerue, or maybe better, Kankerute.
You get the refs Kangaroo hunting, Canker (rust), rueing the day you took this on, and Ute.
He’s going to be in Australia in the month of September and won’t even be going to the Australian Rules Football Grand Final.
Having said that, there’s part of me that really is interested in having a more modern Aussie Ute (25 year rule in the US of course). It’d be as functional as the current Maverick for me, though thirstier, but an awesome conversation starter.
Crocodile DeeTee!
My best advice is to enjoy the ride, and don’t get bitten by a spider. Or a snake. Or a chizwozza .
And if you make to the Ute Muster, don’t get bitten by a Deni-zen. Or anything-elsed by one of them.
Lastly, enjoy a Cooper’s for me!
I guess plenty of 10mm sockets and a couple of pocket reversible pen-sized screwdrivers and you should be good.
Also I guess if none of us are there to see it, if you can’t get them going and just buy a working one for a couple grand, who’s the wiser? 🙂
Cars that old will need imperial sized spanners and sockets. Metric came in from 1st July 1974 in Australia.
Watch every bush mechanic video on Youtube on the flight there!
I’m not sure how strict car inspection is over there in real life, or even if it’s enforced outside the densely populated areas.
But those videos gave me an impression that they aren’t the most important thing that people worry about.
Bush Mechanics!!! Great show, they highlight some amazing bogan engineering that will definitely come in handy.
Maybe I’m getting older, but hanging out in the mud while everyone around me is drunk and vomiting does not sound like much fun, especially after working my ass off for 5 weeks to get something running/driving.
Best of luck, DT.
If you get three and a half weeks into this and find that everything’s going south, so to speak, cut your losses and spend the last few days of your time there looking for an Austin Tasman so at least you won’t have to come back empty-handed.
Don’t forget to check your shoes!!! A variety of unpleasant creatures can view shoes as a nice safe spot, and won’t take kindly to a foot invading their space.
If leaving your boots outside, a piece of an old stocking stretched and tied off, over the top can certainly slow down the creepy crawlies, particularly in that part of the country.
does this property come with a shop to work in? literally most of the deadliest snakes and spiders exist on that island.
David,
Look over both uses and pick the better of the two to make drive. Youay be more attached to the ‘roo hunter, but if it needs more parts, more rust, or.the subframe is tweaked, you’ll wish you went with the other. You have an opportunity! Both are parts cars- but which has more parts, and thereby less work needed?
I didn’t see brake drums on the parts list. In the toolbag you’re bringing, be sure to include a HIGH QUALITY drum brake tool. Don’t take a chance effing up your hands or eyes by farting around with pliers and a screwdriver to change the brake hardware (did I see brake hardware in the parts list?). A pair of cut-resistant gloves would be good, too. Not much is worse than having to do a bunch of work with sliced-up hands. Don’t worry about the venomous fauna too much – antivenom exists for almost everything down there.
I’ve got a nice drum brake tool. I’ll try to track that down.
David, let’s be honest here. The title of this article is a bold-faced lie. You’ve spent your entire writing and wrenching career completely ignoring every single piece of advice you’ve ever been given. You’re about to fly halfway around the world to take on your most hair-brained scheme yet.. One which I am admittedly quite excited to read about… And you expect us to believe that NOW you’ll accept advice???? Yeah, and monkeys might fly out of my butt! That’s a Wayne’s World reference, Mr. Pop-Culture 😉
David,
Look over both uses and pick the better of the two to make drive. Youay be more attached to the ‘roo hunter, but if it needs more parts, more rust, or.the subframe is tweaked, you’ll wish you went with the other. You have an opportunity! Both are parts cars- but which has more parts, and thereby less work needed?
Oops, replied to wrong thread
Does your mother know you are doing this? For God’s sake be careful and take some protection with you…
…At least SPF 50!
“would it kill you to bring me some Vegemite back?”
Can you not get it locally? Here in CA I can find both Vegemite AND Marmite without too much trouble.
“…At least SPF 50!”
SPF 5000 FTW!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8oJzfmWO3CU
I’d buy THAT for a dollar!
There’s nothing more reliable than a clutchless mechanical fan.
I hope you’ve already ordered one of these, unless the hemi already has one, because the slant 6 definitely won’t.
After viewing the video, my advice: Don’t encourage them.
Hoary advice, but still valid. Drive left, look right.
You love biting off more than you can chew, and I can’t fault you for it, I do the same thing. Especially if it’s a really cool looking boat. That being said, my issue with your projects is you chose things that are financial sinkholes. You could put the same amount of effort into a different car, and wind up net even or even make money on it, but instead you restore things that will always be junk (postal jeep). All those hours getting the postal jeep working, and in the end, it’s still not worth anything.
Like these projects… I mean.. neat I guess, but not exactly desirable. Do this same thing on a Chrysler Charger (Aussie), and BAM you have a lot more interest, and the car is worth something when done. Or a Holden Manaro GTS or something COOL. If it’s desirable you can come out ahead with your skill set and refusal to back down.
But it’s that refusal to back down that’s going to keep you commited to these things… so…. I guess the big thing I would do is:
Step1: See if engine is seized, if not, pull plugs and dump atf/oil in the cylinders, get it to spin nicely, then do a compression test, or better yet, a leakdown test. If both cars fail, just give up dude. Recycling them and find a different project when you are there. Building a Mad Max replica in 4 weeks sounds cooler anyway…. but assuming they have compression, I’d…
Step 2: Form battle plan. Maybe get a big whiteboard and write down everything you need to do, and try to triage it in terms of things that will take the most time first. Think a big graphical one, like he “cool wall” from OG top gear. Would look good on social media and would be cool to check off boxes as you go.
Step 3: Have a backup plan. If this falls apart, which it could, make sure you have another plan up your sleeve. Somethign cool that gets clicks. I still think Mad Max cars are your best bet.
Good luck, from one idiot to another
For the love of God, change your socks every now and then, David.
Definitely doing that this time.
Eat a bunch of meat pies and sausage rolls, they will fuel all your adventures. I miss those since I moved to the US so we started making them at home, they’re not quite the same but they fill the void.
Go feed a kangaroo, hold a koala, don’t you dare ask for a Fosters and would it kill you to bring me some Vegemite back?
“would it kill you to bring me some Vegemite back?”
Can you not get it locally? Here in CA I can find both Vegemite AND Marmite without too much trouble.
Looking forward to reading the updates as they get posted! Are you purchasing tools/using what Laurence has or bringing the basics with you?
I’ll bring one 50lb bag with me.