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Just recently had to replace the EGR valve.. this seems to be a common issue on the transit Connect.. The thing I didn’t realize is that there’s a small coolant hose that runs in front of the engine and attaches to an entry tube on the EGR.. When the shop remove the old valve, the van lost some coolant. The radiator doesn’t have a cap and the system uses a plastic reservoir instead. Spent 3 days checking and topping off.. parked the van on a down hill sloop just to burp the system. Think I’m finally past a critical point but I’m keeping the 5 gal coolant in the van for a bit longer.
Nothing on my cars at the moment. I’m unhappy with the performance of the suspension on both my mountain bikes right now though, even after servicing them. And one is brand new, so replacing it probably won’t help.
The repair that kept me up at night the most was when a wire to my transmission corroded through due to a nick in the insulation. The truck wouldn’t start so I would have had to get it towed, and I’m sure it would have been expensive to have the dealer fix it. I spent weeks looking for a bad electrical connector (which is what every other instance of my error message online had been) and stressed about it the whole time. I will say the feeling of elation when I finally got it to fire up again was almost worth the headache.
I’ve had an EVAP valve causing a vacuum leak since I bought my car almost 2 months ago, I got a replacement one last month but life/chores/ the weather’s been stopping me from replacing it for over a month. I just want to stop having a check engine light so I can sleep soundly.
my Magnum came with an intermittent lifter tick and ever since I watched a teardown of a 6.1 Hemi with a failed lifter that gouged a 1/2″ furrow in its cam lobe I get anxious when I hear it
My 2002 WJ Grand Cherokee with the 4.7. Blugh. I bought it in 2022 towards the height of the used car market (read as slightly overpaid) after selling my modded 06 300c, also at the height of the market. It is mint. No rust, perfect interior, etc. My goal was / is to build into a more off-road capable machine. I did all of the standard preventative maintenance after I got it and knew it had a few other things I’d tackle when I lift it.
Then I did a Blackstone Labs oil analysis…..Coolant in the Oil. Not a week after that, a friend was driving behind us and said he saw smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Then I stuck a borescope down each cylinder and found the leak in cylinder 7.
The fix is killing me. Its sat for almost 2 years now. I can wrench, but I don’t have the time to dedicate a week of wrench time to it with other family commitments and projects. I’ve had I don’t know how many shops tell me to scrap it and its not worth the work, OR just flat out refuse to do the work. Turns out not many shops want to touch the 4.7l and its 3 timing chains. Of the few shops I’ve gotten a quote from, the cost has ranged from $2500-$4500.
I can’t tell you how much stress this thing has caused me. It still runs. It just drinks coolant and smokes. I could’ve bit the bullet and gotten it fixed by now. I could’ve sold it at a big loss. I could’ve junked it. I could have…..
I love these Jeeps. I, personally, think they’re the stoutest of Grand Cherokees (say what you will about the ZJ, David. lol), and this is my 3rd. I know the torque specs by heart for a lot of things. I’m finally biting the bullet and getting it fixed. I can’t see sending something to a junkyard thats so mint and is / was a strong runner.
My nightmare WJ saga, folks….
Try this one on for size: 2019 Grand Cherokee with the 5.7L V-8 that has cylinder deactivation. I’ve noticed lately that when it’s cruising down back roads at ~30 mph, the engine will often vibrate or shudder with no torque: it’s exactly the noise you get if when driving a manual, you need to downshift, say from 4th to 3rd.
I took it to the Jeep dealership this week (2k miles to go before the warranty expires) and they said they couldn’t replicate the problem and couldn’t diagnose because no CELs.
Has anyone else seen this in the newer Mopar 5.7L V-8s?
I’ve since been wondering: is this actually a transmission problem? (where the engine is fine, but it’s not downshifting when it should)?
Nothing keeping me awake. Yet. I’m seeing enough battery degradation in my Volt to tell me that’s going to need attention soon. One of the shift cables in my daughter’s New Beetle is done. I’ve seen that type of fraying on a bicycle cable but not one of that size. I’m pretty sure the steering gear in my Frontier is on it’s last legs.
The Beetle and Frontier aren’t HARD jobs, or really expensive for that matter. It’s just that it all keeps piling on.