Plastic! Since its invention in the 20th century, this versatile material has taken over the world. Automakers love the stuff, using it to replace more expensive metal components wherever possible. It’s a popular trend with the cost cutters and one that enrages owners in equal measure. For as Nissan demonstrates, when you go plastic, it’s not always fantastic.
Meet the Nissan Rogue. From 2022, it shipped with the KR15DDT inline-three engine, good for 201 horsepower and 225 pound-feet of torque. It was efficient, decently powerful, and generally considered fit for purpose in a compact SUV. It also featured a plastic oil pan.


Nissan is far from the only automaker to employ plastic oil pans over traditional steel or aluminum parts. However, when it came to the Rogue, it made a critical design error. It takes only a minor twist to destroy the part, and then you’re left with no oil at all!
Twist With Care
It all comes down to the oil pan drain plug. On the Nissan Rogue, despite the plastic oil pan, the drain plug itself is still a metal. It threads into a metal insert that is heat-set into the plastic pan itself. The problem is that if you over-torque the drain plug, it simply rips the metal insert right out of the oil pan. Suddenly you’ve got an oil pan with a big open drain hole and nothing to screw back into it.
At this point, your oil pan is trashed. Since it’s plastic, you can’t re-thread it, and you’d have a hell of a time reinstalling the heat-set insert once it’s trashed. Someone could manufacture larger heat-set inserts to fix this problem, but it would be messy, hard to install, and highly likely they’d leak in short order.



Realistically, your only recourse is to buy a new oil pan. The OEM part will cost you a healthy $296.93 from Nissan USA, including a new gasket and drain plug. Alternatively, an aftermarket part will set you back $60 or so on Amazon.
Amusingly, forum posts note the problem doesn’t always make itself obvious when tightening the plug up. If the plug has been over-torqued, it may still sit in place for the time being. Then, when the next tech goes to untighten the drain plug, the insert comes with it, and the oil pan has to be replaced.
“It’s user error!” you shout. “Not Nissan’s fault!” That might be a fair assessment. Regardless, the Nissan Rogue has a low torque spec for the drain plug. You’re not supposed to exceed 25 foot-pounds when installing it. It’s not devastatingly low, but it’s low enough that it’s easy to exceed without trying. It’s lower than the spec for the 2022 Honda Civic (30 foot-pounds), but higher than a modern Ford F-150 (19 foot-pounds). However, neither of those vehicles is widely known for having an easy-strip oil pan.

Plenty of mechanics have run into this problem. Often, the pan doesn’t fail instantly on over-torquing—instead, the threaded insert comes out the next time someone tries to remove the drain plug.
In any case, the problem is so bad that Nissan felt the need to issue a bulletin in January 2022, just a few months after the KR15DDT engine hit the US market. “NEVER tighten the drain plug greater than its specified torque,” reads the notice, emphasis as per the original. It hints that Nissan quickly identified a spate of pan-stripping incidents shortly after the new engine hit the market.
Of course, you can do some damage by over-torquing the drain plug on just about any vehicle. On a traditional steel or aluminum pan, you can still strip the threads. However, you have to turn a heck of a lot harder to do so. For example, the torque spec on a Ford Crown Victoria is 44 foot-pounds for models with the aluminum oil pan. You can exceed that to some degree without damage. Even if you do trash the threads, you can still generally save the pan. You can either rethread to a slightly larger diameter or fit a helicoil insert so you don’t have to pull the whole sump.

It is entirely possible to make a plastic oil pan that doesn’t suffer from this issue. Notably, BMW used plastic transmission pans on the E90 that used a simple twist-lock plastic drain plug. They avoid the over-torquing problem because you don’t so much torque the plug as twist it into place. You’re also aware from the outset that you’re working with something fragile because the plug itself is plastic, too.
Another solution is just to better design the heat-set insert so that it doesn’t pull out when lightly over-torqued. Designing the insert with a flange on the back would make manufacturing more complicated, but would also make it far harder to pull out of the oil pan without really wailing on your socket wrench. It’s unclear whether or not Nissan has actually made any changes to the oil pan in later model years. For now, the problem is most well documented with 2022 and 2023 models.


Ultimately, Nissan won’t face a huge backlash on this one, beyond a loss of customer goodwill. Every time a threaded insert is yanked out of a Rogue’s oil pan, it can just shout “OVERTORQUE!” and point to the official specs.
Still, this problem happens often enough to suggest Nissan could have created a tougher oil pan from the outset. In any case, if you own a Rogue yourself, forewarned is forearmed. Stick to that torque spec religiously when you’re doing your own oil changes, and make sure your mechanics are doing the same.
Image credits: Nissan, Amazon, Bruce & Shark, Small Engine Guys via YouTube screenshot
This appears to be the second biggest issue on these engines with the first one being how often they blow up.
In Nissan’s defence: read the manual. Follow the service notes.
I mean, they could have moulded the torque limit warning into the pan, for free. But they didn’t. So maybe it is lazy stupid design.
Or, I guess, pay more for a car with less focus on saving money during manufacture. My last BMW had a steel pan bolted to its magnesium block with single use aluminium bolts. The pans all rust out around the oil level sensor (no dipstick, because fuck you customers!) then you just have to jack up the engine and hope none of the fragile bolts snap. That steel pan was nearly a grand, because BMW.
1980s Subarus with the EA82 DOHC used this type of brass insert in their plastic timing belt covers. The bolts were only 10mm,* so you’d think over-torque wouldn’t be a problem, but the majority of those cars I owned ended up with zipties holding the covers on.
During my Better Living Through Adhesives phase, I found that PC-10 had enough shear strength to secure the inserts. -As long as I used aluminum anti-seize and a 2-finger grip on a 1/4” ratchet
* maybe 8mm? Been more than a decade
A Fumoto drain valve solves this problem. I’ve put these on several cars going back to the ’80s.
https://www.fumotousa.com/f103sx.html
Steel bolt in a threaded brass insert is not my favorite. If the threads on the bolt are the least bit damaged you will gall the threads in the brass insert and it will take a mountain of torque to remove the bolt. Brass is soft and steel is hard so the bolt wins every time and the brass threads end up getting damaged. Clean the bolt threads carefully before reinstalling the drain plug.m and use a new crush washer every time you remove and reinstall the plug.
Somebody should let professional wrestlers know there are plastic oil pans out there. Would provide some great variety beyond the usual garbage cans and steel chairs if they could hit each other with oil pans and pretend they are solid steel.