Buying your first car. It’s a rite of passage, a pivotal moment in the life of every car enthusiast. I remember when I was in school, getting my first car was more important than graduating or losing my virginity. Getting your first car felt like the biggest day in life at the time, especially with the huge pressure to do it right. We’ve recently been contacted by a reader named Mike whose son is about to turn 16, and he’s looking for some guidance in today’s crazy used car market.
Hello David, Jason and the rest of the gang. Longtime reader from early lightning site days. I need to save up some moolah to become a member but right now we are saving to help our son buy his first car in this crazy inflated market. My article idea is this: What fun car would you recommend for a car-obsessed soon to be sixteen year old boy? He’s been working and saving up his money for years, has sold off his drumset, bikes and other items and is almost ready to buy a car. Honestly, his passion for cars has kept him out of trouble with drugs and girls. So we fully support his passion. He wants to study engineering and get into the auto industry somehow.
The good news is that Mike’s son has a budget of $12,000, and he has great criteria. A manual gearbox is mandatory, as is a certain fizz factor once described by a floppy-haired Top Gear host. What’s more, Mike’s son wants something that’s cool, and something that can be autocrossed. Hell yeah.
As for keeping parents happy, a car needs to tick some more sensible boxes. First, it needs to be safe. I’d recommend at least side airbags and stability control, just in case. Second, it has to be reasonable to insure. This means that Hondas are out completely, as is anything with enough straight-line performance to get into modern trouble. Sorry Pontiac GTO and Ford Mustang GT, now’s not your time. Third, it needs to work most of the time. Otherwise it’s an NFT, or non-functional transportation.
Well Mike, you’ve reached out to the right people. I love dodging cones just as much as the next helmeted enthusiast, and your criteria basically matches what I search for in cars that I’d want to own. So, without further ado, here are six great enthusiast picks under $12,000.
Mazda MX-5 NC
Model Years: 2006 to 2015
Engine: Two-liter inline-four
Gearbox: Five- or six-speed manual
Power: 170 horsepower
Torque: 140 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,441 to 2,498 pounds.
Fuel Economy: 24 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Not Rated
SCCA Autocross Class: C Street
Sure, the NC MX-5 isn’t the coolest Miata on the market, but it’s not the barge the internet makes it out to be. Quicker, safer, more capable, and more modern than the NA and NB roadsters, the NC represents a value sweet spot where you can get a very capable, very reliable little sports car for not a lot of scratch. Not only does it suffer from fewer old car issues than its father and grandfather, it’s also full of mod-cons like side airbags and available xenon headlamps. If you’re looking for something really sharp, you might be let down by the NC. While this drop-top is objectively a good performer, the stock suspension allows for plenty of roll and dive. Splashing a bit of cash on some upgraded anti-roll bars(like Eibach units) helps dial in the feel, but it’s worth paying attention to how that affects SCCA classing should the autocross bug bite hard.
As far as common issues go, the plastic coolant reservoirs are now old enough to shit their dacks, but the same goes for just about any car on this list. Plastic getting brittle as it ages is about as new information as the fact that the earth revolves around the sun. In terms of spec, I’d definitely recommend investing in a proper roll bar like a Hard Dog unit and searching for a model with the close-ratio six-speed manual gearbox and the limited-slip differential, as both are fun options to have. The NC MX-5 may not offer the best thrills under $12,000, but it’s a safe bet with low running costs and is pleasing in a slow-car-fast way if you can get around the body motions.
Subaru BRZ
Model Years: 2013 to 2020
Engine: Two-liter flat-four
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 200 HP
Torque: 151 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,762 to 2,776 pounds.
Fuel Economy: 24 MPG combined.
IIHS Safety Rating: Top Safety Pick
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
The NC MX-5 is a great starter enthusiast car, but what if you want more? Say, more space, more power, more revs, that sort of stuff. Well, the famous Toyota/Subaru twins are more than a decade old and bargains considering what you get. Whether you call it a Scion FR-S or a Subaru BRZ, these coupes give you all the spice a sports car should while still being perfectly livable as everyday cars. They seat two passengers comfortably and two more if you chop their legs off, and you won’t struggle to get anything larger than a backpack in the trunk.
Dare I say, these twins offer up even more fun than an NC MX-5. Sure, open-topped motoring has its own appeal, but I reckon that stock-for-stock, the two-liter boxer engine has so much more character than the Mazda’s inline-four, and the chassis feels more buttoned-down. I’d argue the steering is sharper, too. We’re talking about a more serious driver’s car than an NC Miata, something that’s more rewarding to push through the cones at an autocross. Sure, cabin noise, vibration and harshness may feel like being in the pit at a Knocked Loose concert, but that just means the car’s nice and light. As a bonus, these cars are incredibly competitive at autocross, and a great platform to grow with. I’d recommend the Subaru version over the Scion, for one reason: Early models were affected by a valve spring recall, and Toyota dealerships unfamiliar with re-sealing Subaru engines may have used excessive RTV that could clog the oil pickup screen. Oh, and both cars have fragile original throw-out bearings, so keep that in mind. Otherwise, these cars are smiles all down. Move over Miata, there’s a new boss in town.
Chevrolet Cobalt SS Turbocharged
Model Years: 2008 to 2010
Engine: Two-liter turbocharged inline-four
Gearbox: Five-speed manual
Power: 260 horsepower
Torque: 260 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,935 pounds
Fuel Economy: 25 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Good front offset, acceptable side-impact.
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
Everyone loves an underdog story. Rocky, the Miracle on Ice, Olivier Panis at Monaco in 1996. The turbocharged Cobalt SS is another one of the all-time greats. Here’s a brief list of cars it’s faster around the Nordschleife than: Mitsubishi Evo VII, Lotus Exige S, 987 Porsche Cayman S, Cosworth Type 25 Subaru Impreza STI spec C, Audi S5. Sure, it might not have a particularly great shifter and its interior feels decidedly low-rent, but this humble Cobalt is sport compact car royalty. So how did Chevrolet get one of the cheapest, nastiest economy cars in recent history to slay such automotive greats?
Long story short, Chevrolet employed great suspension tuning, buckets of turbocharged thrust, and some clever performance functions. The two-liter turbocharged motor puts out 260 rampaging horsepower, and when fed through a five-speed transaxle with an optional limited-slip diff and aided by launch control and no-lift shift, it catapults this plastic-fantastic penalty box to 60 mph in five and a half seconds. Then there’s the stiffer springs, firmer dampers, larger rear anti-roll bar, four-piston Brembo front calipers, and 10 percent quicker steering ratio. It all adds up to one hell of a performance bargain. These 2008 and up turbocharged models are hard to find, but if you can find one that hasn’t been beat to death, you’ll end up with a surprisingly spicy sport compact capable of slaying giants. Don’t forget, it’s a Cobalt so it’s still a shitbox, but it’s a fast and nimble shitbox with dirt-cheap parts.
Volvo C30 T5
Model Years: 2008 to 2013
Engine: 2.5-liter turbocharged inline-five
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 227 horsepower
Torque: 236 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,970 pounds
Fuel Economy: 23 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Top Safety Pick
SCCA Autocross Class: H Street
The Volkswagen GTI is a nice enthusiast car. They’re handsome, quite fun if you’re talking about the MkV, and have massive aftermarket support. However, they are fairly maintenance-intensive. Allow me to present the alternative to German techno – a bit of Swedish metal. The Volvo C30 is a car almost everyone forgets about yet almost anyone likes. At the front, pre-facelift models look almost exactly like practical S40 sedans or V50 wagons. However, things are a different story around back. By drawing inspiration from the 1800ES shooting brake, Volvo created one of the most well-styled rear ends of any modern car. It’s all strawberry syrup taillights, cool glass, and flared hips. It’s a similar story on the inside with a waterfall of brushed metal taking center stage on the dashboard. Lovely.
What’s more, the C30 comes from Volvo’s Ford era, which means it’s based heavily on the second-generation Focus that America never got. This means you get a very composed front-drive chassis, well-weighted steering, and a ride that’s taut without ever being jarring. Plus, C30 T5 models came with the same turbocharged five-cylinder engine you’d find in a Focus ST. Figure horsepower in the low 200s, a torque band as wide and flat as Kansas, and a six-speed manual gearbox. Hot hatch guts with a bodyshell designed by people pathologically obsessed with safety is a brilliant combination. This little Volvo may not quite be as engaging as a GTI, but it’s still a very capable pick. Oh, and since Volvo is a premium brand, many C30s were fabulously-equipped. You could get a thumping ten-speaker Dynaudio sound system, push-to-start, xenon headlights, heated power seats, parking sensors, leather seats, and rain-sensing wipers in these practical hatchbacks. That’s a lot of kit.
Infiniti G35
Model Years: 2003 to 2007 for the coupe, 2003 to 2006 for the sedan
Engine: 3.5-liter V6
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 260 to 298 horsepower
Torque: 258 to 270 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 3,351 to 3,524 pounds
Fuel Economy: 20 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Good front overlap, acceptable side-impact
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
It’s easy to forget how big of a deal the Infiniti G35 was when it came out. Not only was it a Nissan Skyline for America, it offered huge bang-for-the-buck. For the same price as a decently-equipped 184-horsepower E46 BMW 325i, you could have a 260-horsepower Infiniti sedan. The coupes got a bump to 280 horsepower, and available on the options list for both cars was an awesome six-speed manual gearbox with a rifle-bolt shifter linkage. What’s more, the pedal box is set up perfectly for heel-toeing and the steering is confidently-weighted. It all adds up to a car that’s great fun to grab by the scruff of its neck.
As far as issues go, there’s not much to worry about on these cars. The VQ35DE 3.5-liter V6 engines are known for oil consumption, so it’s best to check the dipstick at every other fill-up. Front suspension bushings are quick to wear and the combination radio and climate controls are known for going out every so often, but these are otherwise very reliable cars. Additionally, they all came with stability control, a full complement of airbags, and a reasonably modern crash structure. Mind you, they aren’t hugely refined. Lots of NVH makes it up through the floor on the highway, and some of the interior materials are a bit substandard. The glued-on pleather might flop off of the door trims, for example. Still, if you want a sports sedan and don’t want to pay the IS300 tax, a manual G35 is a good bet.
BMW 128i
Model Years: 2008 to 2013
Engine: Three-liter inline-six
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 230 HP
Torque: 200 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 3,252 pounds
Fuel Economy: 21 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Not Rated
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
I’m breaking the rules here, Mike. I know you said no money pits that are a nightmare to fix and explicitly cited BMW in your email, but the N52-powered 128i is the exception to the rule. Trouble spots? Well, the electric water pump likes to go out at between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, but replace it with a Continental unit for a few hundred bucks and you’re more or less set for life. Otherwise, the VANOS solenoids enjoy periodic cleaning, there’s a coolant flange at the top of the engine that’s best to replace with aluminum for $20 or so, and models built between Sept. 2009 and Nov. 2011 should have the VANOS bolt recall done, but that’s really it. No VANOS rebuilds or subframe mount tearing or any of the annoying E46 stuff. This is a BMW that really just works. Just fix the odd valve cover gasket or oil filter housing gasket leak as it crops up, keep gas in it, change the fluids on time, and go. No different than a regular car, really.
Oh, and go it will. Out of all the cars on the list, this is the one most proven to make it to 300,000 miles, most of which will be very pleasurable. The hydraulic power steering is immaculately-tuned, the chassis just the perfect balance of firm yet comfortable, the seats genuinely all-day comfortable, and the three-liter straight-six engine so impeccably smooth even surging towards 7,000 RPM. Highway slogs are a doddle thanks to extensive NVH attenuation and cruising economy in the 30s, and this thing can still tear up an autocross course like the best of them. It’s not as nimble or as raw as a BRZ, but that’s a good thing for the realities of the road. Plus, it’s still a rich communicator that makes driving slow fun, and it’s incredibly well-equipped. As far as all-rounders go, the 128i is one of the best.
So there we are, six very different but very good picks for a first enthusiast car under $12,000. As for me, I owned a G35 before ending up with the 128i’s slightly bigger brother, the E90 3-Series. Mind you, I’d be pretty happy with nearly all of the cars on this list. They’re all reasonably swift, upgradable, cool enthusiast vehicles that should put a smile on any first car owner’s face, all while keeping parents happy. What reasonably modern, reasonably reliable enthusiast car would you recommend for a 16-year-old on a $12,000 budget? I’d love to know what’s on your radar.
(Photo credits: Mazda, Subaru, Chevrolet, Volvo, Infiniti, BMW)
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The turbo Cobalt SS is definitely not the answer. The only car I ever bought brand new, and the biggest POS I’ve ever owned (actually the worst car anyone I’ve known has ever owned).
I put 99,700 miles on it. I was terrified to own it for one second after my added 10yr/100k mi warranty ran out. At one point I tallied up all the work done on it and it was about one (non-maintenance related) repair every 500 miles. That extended warranty, at about $2400, paid for itself, many, many times over.
And, yes, I was hard on it. Though not as hard on it as I have been my other cars that have been more like one repair every 100,000 miles.
I think the FRS/86/BRZ is the definitive answer here.
Am I the only one who things the G35 is a good option because a kid’s gotta be able to put a bunch of his friends in the car to go do the stuff kids do?
Or maybe that’s a good argument for the Miata….
You can get the V36 Skyline rather than the V35 in this price bracket, and it’s just a better car. More power, better mileage, better durability, much better steering. It’s not an autocrosser, though, unless your lot is huge.
I own a Volvo C30, however 2.0d not T5 for 6 years now. I love it, I love the looks, I love the interior, handling, I love that its completely rust free. Underneath it’s basically Ford Focus (MK2 ST for C30 T5) so it’s easy to find parts and it’s quite cheap to maintain. However there are few disadvantages: electronics – it’s a shit show, if you change almost any part you have to recode it, if you don’t buy properly equipped car with HP SoundSystem you won’t be able to retrofit yourself without recoding and only option is to install and wire secondary soundsystem. The trunk is tiny, and there’s only 2 seats in the back – however it’s quite enough space for adults to seat in the back. If you’re into modifications you can turn it to AWD if you find crashed V50/S40 T5 AWD but it’s quite a lot of work because they didn’t come stock with AWD. But it’s a popular mod in C30 T5 community.
EXCELLENT list!
$12k will get you a verrry nice 128i, and it will stand out from the rest of these in the school lot. And most of them are unmolested, unlike their turbocharged big brothers.
This is a solid list. Gotta throw mine vote in for the BRZ/FRS as I have mine parked outside.
It’s loud, ride is shit, engine doesn’t make the nicest noise stock and I wish it had /this/ much more power but…
Steering is pretty good, handles great, shifter is excellent —clutch leaves something to be desired but the pedals are well positioned for heal and toe. It’s a joy to work on and the forums/enthusiast community is still strong ten years on. Any one on the market at this stage has almost certainly had the throw out bearing replaced (mine shredded itself finally at 60k) and likely the valve spring either is NOT going to cause issues or has already been addressed so I wouldn’t worry about either.
What’s more: it is genuinely (if not overly) practical as I routinely do Costco runs in it for my family of 3. And a 0-5 year old has no issues sitting in the back in a car seat (as conclusively proven by Jason’s own “Will it Baby” on the old lighting site).
Most importantly, despite omnipresent Pittsburgh potholes, ~9 years on, it still makes me smile every time I drive it.
Not to mention there’s a button right next to the shifter that lets you get the car sideways with ease, perfect for a teenager!
I just can’t believe the OG Toyobaroos are 10 years old :/
So, first question should be what the kid wants most, and just go with that if there’s not a particular reason to avoid it.
Otherwise, I’m of two minds. One is to get the Miata – might as well enjoy being young enough to not need that much practicality. The other is to go even more sensible and just get a Golf. Still decent to drive, but a little slower to benefit a beginner driver, great aftermarket support once a little more go is warranted (plus, mods are good wrenching practice as it’s a little more on your schedule), and assuming moving somewhere post-high school, something about as box shaped as you can get in a small car is an asset (similar principles apply to stuff like Honda Fit or Mazda3).
Of what you have listed? Miata or Volvo
Though my first enthusiast car was an R32 Skyline
Something imported with parts commonality would definitely make a high schooler the talk of the parking lot
Wow, Huge thanks to Thomas for writing that up. The kid and I live in southern Maine. He’s been driving our junky, rusted 2002 2wd 5spd regular cab Tacoma and we have had great father and son experiences with vehicles the past few years. He’s learned driving stick, practiced sliding in snow and has generally learned to respect the car and speed. I’m torn reading the comments since I did dumb things when I was learning to drive too, but he’s had one huge goal and he has worked really hard to achieve it. If I’ve learned one thing from losing friends and parents to cancer: Life is short. If he has investment in his purchase, he’s less likely to trash it. Of course, on the flip side I’ve had the most fun in a $200 Outback over any more expensive car. Not caring about dings and dents is a freeing feeling. I’ll keep reading the comments since they are helpful and entertaining too. Thank you, you crazy Autopians.
fwiw-since I expressed skepticism in my original comment, sounds like your son has had a chance to already get some of the craziest of the young driver stuff out and learned some car handling and respect for it, RWD pickup in the snow is a great way to learn the limits. After doing some of that myself with my first beater car my dad did let me buy (this was in 2002) an ’88 Pontiac Trans Am; maybe I really had gotten the worst of it out of my system but never got in even a minor accident in it and I learned how to wrench (and how not to wrench lol) and kept it for years.
We play in the snow on an ice track plowed onto a lake where it’s safe and fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gD8my8hMoM
As long as your son has learn to respect the physical aspect of the car it should be okay, but remember the frontal cortex is still not fully developed when you are a teens, so there will be risk taking. Extra driving lessons helps. Is there any preference to any of the make’s community (eg magazines, online etc)? If you live in a place with plenty of space, autocross and daily driver doesn’t necessarily need to be the same car, especially if you have a Taco and can tow.
Yes, he certainly has his moments, but we’ve had hours of drive times where we’ve driven and I talk about what could have happened, we’ve also done emergency stopping in every vehicle we have here, sudden swerving and he’s learned threshold braking on non-ABS and ABS cars. Nothing will counteract a “duh” risk taking decision, but he genuinely wants to treat his car well, go to shows, meets and autocross. No specific brand community yet.
I would suggest visiting the forums next to better inform on what’s out there and the culture. Also look into wrenching ability and range on repairs and tools. eg I find longitudinal RWD layout, easier to access the required bits, a good Bentley manual inform you on what you need. I imagine you would want to do some shade tree fixing, so being able to acquire a OE scan tool (not just OBD2) reasonably and detailed repair information would be a factor.
Hello fellow southern Mainer! Best of luck to your son in finding the right car. Throwing in my two cents: FIAT Abarth 500. Cheap(ish–in this market nothing seems correctly priced), easy to find with a stick, excellent slow car fast experience, easy to work on, hilarious exhaust note, excellent aftermarket support if he wants to customize it, and surprisingly practical. They suck in the snow without proper snow tires, but that’s the same with most of the suggestions (except, perhaps the Volvo which is also a fine choice). I know it looks kind of goofy but they go a thousand smiles per hour.
We thought about those, but read reviews about how they were city cars, and long highway drives and faster backroads seemed out of it’s element. Also read about lots of low budget build quality. Sometimes the internet can highlight negatives though. I suppose they are worth a second look. Finding one to try out though will be a challenge.
These are all way too fast and RWD for a 16 year old…Volvo maybe though I’m skeptical it’s not a maintenance queen-I would say its platform mate the Mazda 3 can be had for similarly cheap and in stickshift form is a reliable underrated hot hatch that’s still faster than a first car should be (I owned one). Or in a similar vein you can probably find a clean older Civic Si for that much that still that is plenty fast without promoting tail out shenanigans, all while being as reliable as anything out there-if you can find a low owner well cared for one-do not buy somebody’s modded POS. (Also good luck finding a BRZ/GT86/FRS for $12K that isn’t totally thrashed.)
A car for an enthusiast – how did those front wheel driven appliances make the list!?
Your comment sounds condescending and ignorant. The variety of front wheel drive sports cars and their success in rallycross racing history shows that front wheel drive cars have their place in the world of car enthusiasts.
The correct answer is a car you want to drive. I assume you are already driving one to begin with, and this is just a 2nd when you want it to be. (my son turns 16 in less than 2 weeks!!!! So, this is very much on my mind)
With that said, I’m looking at 8th gen Accord Coupe. But, that’s a stretch.
Civic. The end. Good luck paying insurance for a 2 door 2 seater for a 16 year old, lmfao.
Usually cheaper to have a 2-seater than a 4-seater on insurance. My least-expensive car to insure was a C5 Corvette.
Not for teens, at least for me it was not.
Your looking for a car for your 16 year old? Volvo C30…hands down. Fast enough to be fun, fwd = understeer which is safer than oversteer, and the whole Volvo makes safer cars is not a joke at all. Volvos of this era were reasonably reliable, above BMW at least.
How is going straight through/out of a curve safer?
You guys are gonna realize how foolish you all are in a second:
focus ST
Enough power for fun, but way better brakes and handling than power. Autocrosses like a mofo. Safe as a mofo. Seats five + luggage. Looks like a million bucks. Reasonably fuel efficient. It is literally the best
Source: owned one for two glorious years
Most 16 year olds would total that in a heartbeat. They need underpowered, not “hot hatch”. Once htey prove they can keep a car alive for a couple years, then maybe something faster.
for a 16 year old? A stock focus would be plenty IMO if you get it with a stick it’s still fast enough to scare the pants off his dad and friends.
I don’t think you’ll find one in that budget that isn’t trashed. But they were really good. I test drove one and it drove better than everything I tested save for the C5 Corvette I ended up buying. Yes that’s quite a range but still. The ST really surprised me, and I look in on their prices still every now and then.
Dude, C30 T5 is basically Focus ST but with better looks IMO.
I like the cobalt here- but bonus if you can find the SS Turbo Sedan model from 2009.
“I remember when I was in school, getting my first car was more important than graduating or losing my virginity.“
When I was in school, getting my first car was paramount to losing my virginity. Therefore I recommend a car with the most comfortable, reclining seats or a hatchback with lay flat back seats. Everything else is gravy.
The Mazda is the best choice of those. Another good choice would be a first-gen Boxster (and before you all scream “IMS,” you can get the car and have it fixed for that $12k – just get an inspection first).
Cruze. There are manual ones out there that aren’t beat to death. The 1.4T is fairly easy to work on and the back seat is on the small side for two adults. Plus it has a decent bit of torque down low for squirting through traffic. Put Amsoil Syncromesh in the transmission to make it shift better.
When you’re 16 any car is a sports car. If he gets a Plymouth Volare it will be ridden hard and put up wet. Of the cars presented I like the BRZ. I would rather have a roof over my child’s head. Now, thanks to you, I’m going down the C30 rabbit hole.
Now imagine paying for insurnace on a 2door, 2 seat, rwd sports car for at >checks notes SIXTEEN YEAR OLD. You people must be rich.
to illustrate your point with a true story-when I was 17 I saved up and bought an ’88 trans am (this was 2002) only to find out my parents insurance refused to even insure me on it.
I’m the wrong person to ask – my first car was a 1998 Buick Regal LS, and I liked it enough that a few years (and cars) later I ended up with a 2002 the same colour, but with leather and the Monsoon stereo.
That said…. A manual Mazda 2 might be a good choice. I’m driving a 2011 right now. Cheap, like 35-37mpg, lighter than some Miatas so it’s fun to toss around, and not nearly enough horsepower to really get in trouble.
I second this choice. I have owned one for seven years now and it’s been a brilliant little thing. They’re reliable, easy to work on, cheap to insure and fuel, and great fun to drive. The limits of these things are fairly low, so it allows a driver to learn the basics of car control and have a little fun without getting burned.
I’d forgotten about that one.
I have it’s cousin a Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed as my rainy day car and it would be perfect.
120 horsepower, meager torque, good tossable fun, even more with the cheap Ford Performance “Handling Package”. Cheap, reliable fun for old and young and you get to put your foot to the floor in everyday use. (-:
Technically the Mazda has LESS power than the Fiesta, it’s a 1.5L with about 100 each of horsepower and ft/lb of torque. Still, it’s been reliable and fun for the 5+ years I’ve owned it.
Hondas are unreasonable to insure? What? They also make great 1st cars…also yes it should definitely be a shitbox…my cheapest was $100 & even fixed the broken throttle cable w/ string out the window & DROVE it home like that
Yeah I’m perplexed by that insurance remark too.
Those cars are too new and too expensive for a first car. Even in the pandemic, $3000 will still get you a decent car.
I’d suggest the best condition least rusty I4 manual you can get under $3000
A Matrix/Vibe would be good, or an Echo, Yaris, XA, XB, or XD, or even a Camry
If you can find the a vibe GT it even has some sporty cred with the engine and trans out of a Celica while still not really being stupid fast or rwd.
Vibe Matrix get the basic engine, there are issues with the GT / higher spec engine.
Oh dang forgot about the Matrix/Vibe cousins. Solid choice with bulletproof Corolla underpinnings.