It’s a mostly rust-free diesel pickup truck with a manual transmission for just $5900 or best offer. How am I supposed to resist this, especially given where I stand with my Jeep J10? (I cannot get it through California emissions). Then again, maybe I should hold onto the J10 and see if I can limp it through somehow, as I do love that machine with all my heart. I’m honestly not sure what to do.
One could make the argument that, given that I’m getting married in 13 days (and given that our wedding car isn’t ready for primetime), I shouldn’t be looking at cars.
I already have two BMW i3s, so why did I drive all the way to Irvine to see this 2015 BMW i3 last week?
The answer, of course, is that it was a smokin’ hot deal. $7000!
But I resisted, as the i3’s battery appeared to be at about 75ish% state-of-health. This means it’s just above the 70 percent threshold needed to get a free replacement from BMW, but it’s lower than a battery percentage that anyone would actually, you know, want to own. 75% of 75 miles of range is 56 miles of range. In fact, the white car above showed 54, so it may have been at 72% health, though the car’s “kapa max” battery reading of 14.5 indicates it’s at 77%. In any case, anywhere in there is a bad region you don’t want to be in.
During my test drive, the car’s battery state of charge did drop from 60 to 57 percent in just a mile, telling me that maybe the battery state of health was actually worse than 70%. But my trip was only a mile, so I didn’t have enough data, and I didn’t want to risk it.
If I’d bought it for $7000 and then paid taxes, I wouldn’t have been able to easily sell the car for a significant profit unless the battery was replaced under warranty, and that wasn’t a certainty, so I decided not to bother.
Then we have this 1983 Ford F-150 for sale for $5900 or best offer. I took a look at it earlier today; the truck has a little rust in the cab corners and around the drip rails rails, but otherwise it’s solid:
The interior needs some upholstery work and steering wheel repair, and the dash needs a cover, but it’s not too bad.
Even the engine sounded quite nice at idle, and no smoke came from the exhaust.
Unfortunately, smoke did billow from the 6.9-liter IDI diesel’s oil fill tube. Check it out:
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I’ve been told by some that this is fairly normal, but I asked a gentleman named Cody, who is selling his 1986 Bull Nose F-250 Diesel, if his smoked, and he sent me this video:
So I decided to pass on the very first Ford diesel pickup truck offered in the U.S.
The Ford would have been an easy way to get a soulful work truck that doesn’t have to pass smog, as I currently own a 1985 Jeep J10 that simply will not get through. Should I keep looking for a pre-1975 truck, should I buy a diesel like that F-250 I looked at, or should I try to swap a fuel injected 4.0 out of a ZJ into my truck? (I have a spare one sitting around).
Honestly, my J10 is a bit gutless, so those extra 78 horsepower and 15 lb-ft would be nice. Maybe I could actually tow things without it feeling so terrifying. So a 4.0 swap could be interesting, though the California government bureaucracy I’d have to to deal with would be rough, especially if I did what I really want to do: Swap a fuel-injected 4.0 head onto my truck’s 258 engine block.
So that may be the route I go, though that smoky old diesel F-250 is tempting.
No.
Stop shopping for vehicles.
You have a deposit on a Scout and a hoard of other vehicles that are becoming more and more neglected.
You’re trying to cull the herd, not add to it.
The answer for the J10 is LS.. it’s always LS
I fully support the 4.0L swap with full reporting of what it takes to get a engine swapped car CARB certified in California. However, you’ve bought a few vehicles with the intention of doing a swap and never got around to it, so I don’t think that it would happen. How’s your overland project going? Weren’t you going to camp in the Aztek for a month? What about the WWII Jeep? Did you sell that? I don’t think married David will have more time than single David did.
4.0 swap! (No Fix Or Repair Daily’s or ugly EV’s)
Swap!
As a proud owner of 3 (current) and almost a dozen previous Ford 6.9 and 7.3 idi’s, I cannot more wholeheartedly recommend this vehicle.
Reliable. Simple. Trustworthy. Even efficient.
I had one old guy say “the ol 6.9 is reliable as an anvil – and about as fast too”.
In manual transmission form, all they need is a small amount of 12v to the fuel solenoid, otherwise they. just. run.
I’ve jimmied mine to run with no alternator, no vacuum pump, no power steering, no power brakes, heck, even no clutch, and they just keep going.
That amount of blowby is perfectly normal for these, there was quite a large ring gap from the factory.
If I had any say, buy! buy! buy! Your future wife will thank you for your thriftyness
No. Don’t plant the seeds for a divorce before you get married. But, perhaps your fiancée is more forgiving than most.
Objectively, the rust is not pretty, but unlikely to get much worse in SoCal. I had a 2001 Jetta TDI and loved it, but diesel is almost always more expensive than regular where I live, these days. I don’t have any need for a torquey pickup truck.
Bottom line, run this by your beloved and abide by her opinion. This isn’t some once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
You have the Aztek! What else do you need for a wedding car?
351w is good. Try that.
For your wedding gift, we should get your new wife a big stick that she can use to bop you over the head with for whenever you get a truly bad idea.
I’ve always been a bit bothered when people say that their spouse is a killjoy and doesn’t let them indulge their hobbies – because being married should make your life more joyful, not less – but I think having a bop when you look at another i3 or a silly diesel pickup could be valuable for your self preservation.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/los-angeles-96-ford-f250-turbo-diesel/7800404955.html
Better option if looking for a tow pig.
Nice, that truck is just a few rattle cans and a free day away from looking, well, not good. But even matte black Rustoleum would be a step up from the sticker residue.
The star of the show here is the Turbocharged Powerstroke 7.3. square body is a bonus. probably the easiest thing to here is rhino line the whole truck if the outward appearance is a concern. But we all know Spaghetti shower guy likely don’t care.
No.
The sensible option is to rent something cool for the wedding. Even supercars on Turo would be a lot cheaper than buying that pickup, and I’m sure there’s something wacky and fun you could find that fit your vibe. Or hell, ask to borrow something from Galpin’s collection. Where’s that rainbow bb 911? Do that instead.
I’m not one to discourage bad ideas, but this is a particularly bad one. You want to make it there. You want to drive off in something cool. Don’t add an extra layer of complication to an already stressful thing. I’m sure there’s something awesome that you can rent or borrow that’d be up for the task.
This also buys you more time to get the Jeep to pass smog and lets you focus on other last-minute stuff that pops up, which always seems to be a thing with big events.
(I feel dirty playing the voice of reason. I’m going to have to type “buy a Cayenne” just to get that yucky taste out of my mouth.)
I typically neither give nor take advice from other car people but I’m going to make an exception. 3 things to not do: That Ford is not a good enough truck to make it worth getting into a whole ‘nother thing, e.g. old diesels. Don’t buy yet another BMW electric car ’cause beyond the first one who-cares, this is a rabbit-hole. A six-cylinder Jeep for a tow vehicle in So. Cal. (Cajon Pass, Tehachapi Pass, the freeways in general) is as workable as that Nash Metro would have been in the Valley, no matter how you build it. The other traffic will eat you alive while you pound your little motor to pieces trying not to be that guy who’s just in everybody’s way. This ain’t the flatlands of the Midwest.
I know The Autopian doesn’t do mechanical deep-dives but if it were me and I were that stuck on an FSJ truck (and incidentally I do like them, sorry I sold my ’63) I’d find a thrasher-but-not-too-rusty pre-smog pickup, swap over whatever parts from the present one then say goodbye to it, and pick some adequately-powered gas driveline (a J-truck frame is not up to diesel weight) like even just a Chevy 350.
There’s a ’74 that looks pretty nice in Escalon CA for 2K on Facebook. A private DMV person will help sort the title out, bring the VIN to one before buying. Nail down the deal then pick it up after the wedding.
In a different situation I’d already have that thing and I’ve got a ’99 Dodge F.I. 360/NV3500 that would love to inhabit it. But I’ve got 20 projects already.
I appreciate the advice! (though I’m not sure what you mean that we don’t do mechanical deep-dives).
I suppose it’s just a question of levels. Apologies for the negative tone which I see after re-reading.
I’d say of all sites, we do the DEEPEST dives (well, engineering ones). In fact, we have a 10,000 word one coming on why certain engines (i4, i6, V8, V10) sound the way they do. GET READY.
That’s true, of all the sites, you do.
Hey look at this, year unknown but probably early: Marketplace – 1960 Jeep Willy | Facebook
How about those standalone “replace-a-carburetor” Holley (etc) fuel injection units? I’m pretty sure they’re CARB-approved, and have to be a lot easier than a head swap.
Alternately, find a pre-1976 J-series truck and swap your good parts over.
That would help, they are called Snipers by Holley. But, the real problem is likely just a tired engine with plenty of blow by. A rebuild is likely all he would need and that might not be more than the Ford Diesel suggested here. Certainly a rusty old parts YJ with a 4.0 would be a likely candidate for a full swap, especially if you include the FI and cats.
Sounds like Torch needs to buy that J10 from you for $1 and plate it in NC and keep it parked in California for when he needs it under the care of his good friend David.
Technically if it’s stored in CA you have to register it there, and in the proper county. All the schemes otherwise are just that, even though people get away with them. A writer has to keep his nose clean.
Instagram links never, ever work for me on my work machine.
*blocked for productivity*
David, please keep this answer to this question for the foreseeable future:
David: Should I buy this _________ (insert car no one with a lick of sense would purchase)?
Answer: Hell No!
Don’t you have a suit you need to be shopping/fitted for?
Get thee to Suit Supply in Century City!
https://suitsupply.com/en-us/
(And don’t forget to purchase some decent shoes)
I bought a suit from Macy’s the other week; it’s being tailored. Snagged a sweet Hanks Belt last night on sale.
My shoes need a bit of polish, but they’re OK. I do need to find a tie for a charcoal gray suit and a white shirt…
You don’t wear a work belt with a suit at your wedding. It may not even fit the loops in the pants.
And you need new shoes.
Have WestsideLexusBride take you shopping again.
I’m hoping that Highland “dress” belt isn’t too thick, but we’ll see. I do like a thick, full-grain leather belt made in the USA.
Definitely buy new shoes. Nothing will stick out more with a new suit than a poor looking belt or old and tired shoes. And, don’t forget your feet will be in some of the wedding pics. Don’t want those to stand out or detract from your bride.
Thanks for the Hank’s tip! Been having my eye on the eagle.
Jason, Matt and Mercedes are going to have to go out to LA early for the intervention instead of just the wedding, aren’t they?
Couldn’t invite the whole crew, sadly, as it’s a small wedding (Weddings in CA are insanely expensive, and our families alone is 25-ish people), but like I’ve been saying for years: Everything is under control!
And for years we’ve responded “hell no!”
IIRC, the 4.0’s intake manifold will hit your brake booster on the FSJ. Which means a 4.0 swap is also a hydroboost swap to get everything to fit. At least thats what I was told when I looked into doing this back in 2006.
Also if you’re gonna buy a tow rig, buy something that isnt galactically slow.
I could see that. Hydroboost it is.
And it usually works better than 50 year old master cylinder designs, so bonus.
Dude… you’re about to get married. And you already have a fleet of cars. In Los Angeles. Give it a rest. Its that kind of unnecessary hoarding that ruins marriages.
I’d do the 4.0 swap with the J10. That F250 has a freaking hole in the roof. A rust hole in the fender or bedside is a patch and go job, but who knows what has gotten inside the cab of that truck. $6,900 seems like an absurd price to me given the condition.
You’re a Jeep man through and through, David. If you can get the J10 smogged with an engine swap that will also make it a better truck, then go for it.
Speaking of a later truck the roof rails hold water and the paint is shit. So rust. I’d check sheetmetal parts exist, if they do plan on it.
I keep hearing they’re going to roll back the smog requirements for older vehicles. Maybe just sit on the J10 for a year or two, if you have a place to store it, and see if it becomes a non-issue.