Once upon a time, making aftermarket parts for cars was a serious business. You generally needed a machine shop or a full fiberglass setup to make stuff, and that usually entailed being in the business to make it financially worthwhile. These days, things are different. We’re seeing all kinds of DIY parts popping up out of the Miata community, and it’s all thanks to 3D printing.
Of course, people are 3D printing all kinds of parts for all kinds of purposes. But in the car scene specifically, we’re seeing a ton of these builds coming from Miata owners specifically. Why? My theory is that the Miata has always been a great, affordable, entry level enthusiast’s car. Owners are often looking for a way to get parts on the cheap, and in turn, that’s created a great DIY ethos.
Whether you’re looking for a style upgrade or something actually functional, you could find 3D printing to be a useful tool in your arsenal. There’s a whole lot that you can do, and you can do it all yourself at home.
Winging It
This week, I spoke to Luke down in Adelaide, Australia. We first bumped into each other years ago in the local MX-5 scene. These days, he’s doing great things with 3D printing, whipping up some tight parts for his first-generation NA MX-5 track car.
“I’ve custom made parts for the Mazda over many years but normally via traditional methods,” Luke told me. “I’ve been interested in graphics and 3D modelling since undertaking my engineering degree, but when I bought my first printer a few years ago I could finally turn my concepts and parts into reality at a faster rate and get it near perfect first time.” He’s experimented with designs for all kinds of useful parts. 3D printing has helped him whip up simple things like GoPro camera mounts and gauge holders, and he’s experimented with making his own turbofan wheel covers, too. But he’s also explored more performance-oriented parts—brake ducts, aero pieces, and even various front bumper air dam designs.
For him, price has been a huge motivator to pick up 3D printing. “The parts I’m wanting aren’t really available, and if so, they aren’t cheap,” he says. “I get a real kick out of turning a concept into reality so just decided to spend my evenings designing and building my own parts.”
This is the thing about 3D printing—it’s cheap. Printers are cheap, filament (the plastic you print with) is cheap, and you can download tons of free stuff to print online. You can also design your own parts to do whatever you need them to do. Honestly, the biggest investment ends up being your time. If you’ve got plenty to spare, you can do all kinds of stuff.
Luke’s latest headline project is a 3D-printed rear wing. It’s modelled after the one Mazda delivered on the 1995 RX-7 SP, but he redesigned it to suit the original Miata. It’s got a proper has a gurney flap, too, just like the real deal. “Physically, the key ingredients are 3D-printed plastic components, aluminum internal spars for rigidity, and automotive adhesive,” he explains. “Along with the adhesive , it’s physically jointed using a number of plastic welding methods with basic tools and uses simple mounting bracket hardware on to the boot lid.”
“The wing performed well at The Bend as I’d hoped,” Luke explains of his recent outing to Australia’s longest racetrack. “It’s a solid build with minimal flex and mounts firmly to the bootlid.” As his track car isn’t a fully-instrumented race build, he’s honest but conservative on its benefits. “Whilst I don’t have aero data on the wing, compared to previous sessions it definitely gave confidence to my rear end and [I] now require more front end downforce to balance it,” he says. Initially, he’d contemplated skinning the 3D-printed parts in carbon fiber, but thus far, he hasn’t found any need—it’s held up fine on its own. He’s already got plans for a larger version in the works.
Under the name 3DRX, Luke is currently offering his wing design for purchase for eager owners in his local area. His current plan is to produce the 3D-printed parts and sell those, so the customer can assemble and fit the wing themselves with the aid of some off-the-shelf hardware like aluminum angle and fasteners. For other parts, he sells digital files for those that want to print their own parts at home.
You might think that this takes high-end gear, but that’s anything but the case. “I use entry-level hobbyist printers, which are widely available,” Luke explains. He’s currently making parts on printers from Creality’s Ender 3 series. You can buy them all over the world for just a few hundred bucks. Their print volume is limited, but that’s not a problem. The trick to producing bigger parts is to break them up into smaller components to be joined together later.
Luke’s got enough experience now that he knows what works in 3D printing and what doesn’t. He didn’t jump right into complex parts, though—first he learned how to properly use the tools. “I started simple, which enabled me to learn how to troubleshoot common printing issues and learn a lot about printing parameters and different materials,” he explains. He’s also found ways to level up his practice. He purchased a Revopoint 3D scanner, which allows him to accurately capture the complex geometry of the car and import it into his 3D modelling software. This helps him make parts that fit the car properly right off the bat.
Luke’s not stopping anytime soon, either. The way he spins it, building your own 3D-printed parts almost sounds addictive. “I’m planning a rear diffuser, side skirts, rear spats, a fastback roof, other bumpers, body panels and a widebody kit… just because I enjoy the process,” he chuckles.
Topping It Off
Luke’s just one of many Miata owners playing in this space. Back in May, I spoke to Brent Foster, an architecture student armed with a printer of his very own. He’d started out on building a wild widebody kit for his Miata, the more outrageous the better. He was making a damn fine go of it, too.
Brent’s build drew from the LTO kit for FD Mazda RX-7—the rotary legend being a common source of inspiration for members of the Miata community. He whipped up his own version in CAD software for his university thesis project, printed out the parts, and stuck it all together on his car. We haven’t seen it go through final paint or panel yet, but even just tacked on, you can see the promise.
Indeed, Miata heads seem to be very keen on the whole concept of 3D-printed bodywork. Again, price seems to be a primary driver in this area. For example, official Mazda hardtops for the Miata are always going up in price. What was a $1,000 part a decade ago might cost two to three times as much today. That has driven members of the community to produce their own designs for 3D-printed hardtops that are, ideally, cheaper and easier to lay one’s hands on.
As covered by The Drive, Xavier Lipscomb published one of the most popular 3D-printed hardtops on Etsy last year. It largely apes the shape of the original Mazda part. The entire hardtop frame could be printed in 44 pieces on a regular consumer-grade 3D printer. Indeed, the pieces of the design were sized specifically for that purpose. Xavier sold the design on Etsy so other owners could print their own at home. Finishing the hardtop involves assembling the parts, skinning with fiberglass or carbon fiber, and adding in fittings and a plastic window of some kind. It’s an involved project, but very possible for the eager home builder.
In Xavier’s design, the 3D-printed shell is used as a base on which to produce a fiberglass part. It’s a lot of work.
The cool thing about 3D printing, though, is that you’re not limited to copying the manufacturer’s original design. To that end, HutchinsRacing designed their own fastback-style hardtop for the Mazda Miata. It completely changes the character of the car in a way which particularly appeals to those that resent the roadster design and wish it was a coupe instead.
The fastback model can similarly be purchased on Etsy for those that want to print one at home. It comes with a YouTube guide that covers how to assemble and finish the top. Total cost is estimated at under $500, though one suspects that’s without paint and panel work to fully integrate it into the body.
For bigger or more structural components, it’s desirable to make them stronger by using them as a base to produce composite parts. It’s a lot more work, though.
Go Forth And Print
A lot of these projects are pretty involved, and can be daunting to a newcomer. However, few to none of these people started out printing giant bodykits and hardtop roofs for their car. Like most every 3D printing enthusiast, they started out small. They printed a few Pikachus, a few clamps, trim pieces, and adapters. These small projects are a great way to learn 3D modelling techniques and how to produce good parts that don’t turn to a gloopy mess on the printer.
Master these techniques, though, and the sky is the limit. You can 3D print small things, big things—just about anything you can imagine. If you’re creative, you can even 3D print stuff that gets hot, wet, or messy—you can use your 3D-printed design as a base for making carbon fiber parts, for example, or print forms for making metal parts, too. You don’t have to be a Miata owner, either. The church of 3D printing welcomes all comers. Good luck, and have fun out there.
Image credits: 3DRX/Luke Drx (supplied), Brent Foster (supplied), Xavier Lipscomb via Etsy, Xavier Lipscomb via YouTube screenshot
Haha I just picked up an Ender 3 on FB marketplace for $80. Now I know what to build!
I’ve bought several interior trim pieces for my GTV6 that are 3D printed. It’s bee salvation for those unobtanium bits. I’m really tempted to buy an entire door mirror assembly a guy in an Alfa FB group was making.
“The cool thing about 3D printing, though, is that you’re not limited to copying the manufacturer’s original design.”
WooHoo!! Gated shifter here I come!!
They are doing it because they are awesome. Last year I had an opportunity to interview with a muscle car company operator in Homer City Pa and somewhere in FL. He wanted a parts hunter for the typical muscle car parts for the amazing cars he restored. I believe I was in the running right up until I asked if he was familiar and looking into 3D printing parts. Well he shut the interview down but I expect when he is buying 3D parts from someone else he might realize how old fashioned he is.
Damn, that fastback Miata looks good.
That’s cool – but…
…seems to me the cars that REALLY need some 3D printing help are BMWs and Corvettes.
Can you 3D print a manual transmission for a C8?
Asking for a friend.
Raises hand in Italian… Alfas first!
Having recently plunged into 3D printing, I can add a couple of thoughts. First, I really like the Bambu Labs X1C I bought. Certainly not the cheapest way to start, but I think it was worth it. There can be a bit of a steep learning curve when you start out with 3D printing and that machine flattens that curve significantly. Second, if you’re going to print car parts, prototype with the cheapest PLA you can find until you’re sure it’s perfect. Then spend the money for some fiber reinforced filament, as it really makes a significant difference in strength. Third, if you’re not patient, find another hobby. Fourth, TinkerCad is your friend if you’re like me and have never done any CAD in your life. It’s deceptively simple in that you can really build some fancy stuff using what initially appears to be a child’s tool.
SuperfastMatt had a recent video where he recommended the a Bambo model 3D printer as being the tipping point of 3D printing now easy enough that normal people (instead of 3d model nerds) can figure it out and make 3d printing a lot more accessible
https://youtu.be/7WwGkFbwygI?si=FKUT7eTwpcRRznja
I said the exact same thing to Jason. It’s almost turn key simple with the X1-C
I’ll also mention that if you don’t want to drop that much coin to start, I got myself an A1 mini about a month ago for $200, and the amount of useful stuff I’ve printed for electronics/solar projects is amazing. I’ve only done really basic modifications to existing things so far, but am starting to play around with TinkerCad. My plan was to buy an X1C once I decide if I’m getting enough use out of it, and I’m just about there, but am finding there is very little I can’t get done on the mini, and the print quality is just as good. (Just limited a bit by size and to some extent materials since it’s not enclosed.)
In all candor, I could probably do most on an A1 too and would have brought that model if I didn’t have a wee bit of cash to burn and was looking for any excuse not to buy another car. Lol
Lewin, you guys should really do a piece on this company: https://octoclassic.com/
No affiliation and I have not yet bought any of their stuff for my Benz, but they are taking 3D printing in the highest-quality direction that I’ve come across (and as an industrial designer, I’ve been 3D printing since the first gen SLA machines).
On-demand, but professionally engineered and finished, parts are really the attainable future. DIY will always be a varying-quality niche area.
Oh man, I love those guys. I’ve been saving my pennies to buy replacement rear speaker grilles for my w126. From everything I’ve seen, their quality is basically OEM.
My issue with any of this, is that the method is not really appropriate.
More exaggerated example: Producing something via 3d printing that could be done on a lathe.
FDM is only strong one direction, just like a piece of wood in relation to the grain. FDM is what you see for almost all these parts, because it’s the cheapest, but it’s still quite expensive to produce unless you own your own printer, which is itself rather limiting due to print size. So in order to make any of these parts, you print and print and print tons of small squares of pieces with absolutely horrible surface quality, and they’re heavy!
Idk. I have been using 3d printing as part of my career for 20 years now and this stuff just always seems hack to me. It makes sense for PROTOTYPING something, but once the form is finalized it’s almost always better to then create a mold from the part, and produce it out of another material.
And if it is going to be a 3d printed part, don’t be a cheap ass and use SLA, because the surface quality can approach injection molded parts and it doesn’t look terrible.
Perhaps, but I suspect that joining SLA parts is a lot harder than joining FDM parts. Yes, while FDM is usually strong in only two directions, layer thickness, print speed, print temperatures, print orientation, material, and part design all help to ameliorate that disadvantage. However, SLA doesn’t generally require supports, so there it that massive bonus.
I think there are vary valid use cases for both.
Oh definitely, FDM is great for quickly/cheaply prototyping an idea. It just looks like dogshit.
When I saw the fastback, my immediate thought was Shooting Brake Miata!
And, this is just a new material for the 21st century: my grandfather talked about making/modifying small things at a buddy’s forge for some small parts on the first few Model T’s he restored.
“an architecture student at Virginia Tech” I’m sure the UVA-educated editor just missed that suggestion 🙂
I’d love to know how Brent got the Miata on that plaza but it’s a great shot!
Keep these guys on speed dial for those slower news days. This stuff is awesome!
I design and 3D print parts for all my cars and my friends’ cars. Everything from center consoles, radio bezels, trim pieces, brackets, air intakes, velocity stacks, and even taillights (yes Jason, I self-pleasure).
Very cool. I wrote something up from Botzen design recently of a guy making his own taillight lenses with epoxy pours into silicone molds and I was just blown away by the results
If you think that is impressive, you should see the replacement ash tray cover I printed for my Miata like 6 years ago.