There are very few similarities between Volvo’s boxy wagons and America’s favorite off-roaders. However, the Scandinavians did know a thing or two about getting around in slippery conditions, given the snowy conditions in their home country. As it turns out, old Volvos can teach Jeeps a thing or two about putting power down off-road if you know what parts you’re looking for.
It all comes down to the Dana 30 axle. It was used up front in the XJ, ZJ, MJ, and TJ Jeeps—which means you could find them in Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Comanches, and Wranglers once upon a time. The vast majority of these vehicles shipped with open differentials which came with one major drawback. If one of your front wheels started slipping, you’d get virtually no drive from the front end at all, because the open diff can’t send more torque to the wheel that still has traction.
![Vidframe Min Top](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/vidframe_min_top1.png)
![Vidframe Min Bottom](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/vidframe_min_bottom1.png)
The solution is to swap out the Dana 30’s stock diff with a limited-slip or locking differential. This woudl allow high amounts of torque to be sent to either wheel even if the other is sitting up in the air. The problem is that an LSD or locking diff center can be pretty expensive… unless you know of a secret junkyard source to find them on the cheap. That’s where Volvo comes in!
![7f8b6774 7d65 4c40 90ca 6a164b2fd146](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/7F8B6774-7D65-4C40-90CA-6A164B2FD146-scaled-e1736801421929.jpg)
Swag In The Wagon
The Volvo 240 is a world-renowned piece of Swedish engineering, known for its reliability and unique styling. Most commonly found in sedan or wagon form, it later spawned the more modern Volvo 740 and the 940 in turn. These vehicles were built to survive in all climates, but particular attention was paid to ensuring they could handle the ice and snow of wintery European roads.
To that end, Volvo equipped these vehicles with a secret weapon. Certain models would receive a so-called automatic locking differential based on the Eaton G80 design. Well-known for its use in various GM applications, it’s referred to as a locking differential or a limited-slip differential depending on who you talk to. In reality, it’s a differential that locks up once one wheel has slipped relative to the other.
This video explains the method of action of the G80 differential.
![Graphic Out Diff1](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/graphic-out-diff1.jpg)
![Graphicoutdiff2](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/graphicoutdiff2-e1736802030516.jpg)
![Diffouter4](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/diffouter4.jpg)
![Diffengage3](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/diffengage3-e1736801998299.jpg)
The method of action is relatively straightforward, and is explained in the video above. There’s a small gear mechanism inside the differential which spins up to speed when one wheel turns faster than the other. As this mechanism turns, centrifugal force causes a small flyweight to spin out and trigger a catch that in turn locks the two output shafts of the differential together. It requires a difference in rotational speed between the wheels of around 100 rpm before it locks up.
Notably, the G80 is also set up so that the centrifugal force moves the catch itself out of reach of the flyweight at higher speeds. This stops the differential locking up beyond about 20 mph or so. The intention is to make sure the differential doesn’t suddenly lock up when one wheel hits a patch of ice on the highway or in similar situations. Under those conditions, a sudden hard locking of the differential could lead to a loss of control. A common modification in the Volvo world involves reducing the mass of the catch so it takes a higher speed to disable the locking action.
This setup was pretty perfect for Volvo’s application. It wanted a way to ensure its vehicles could find traction at low speed on snow and ice. A limited-slip differential that works at low speed was ideal. In the case that one wheel loses grip and starts spinning, the differential quickly locks up and allows the engine to still send high amounts of torque to the other wheel that has grip. Meanwhile, at higher speeds, where no locking action is needed, the G80 acts as a simple open differential.
The neat thing is that Volvo was using some Dana 30 compatible parts in its rear ends in a great deal of these models. That just so happens to match perfectly with the front axles used in the aforementioned Jeeps—the XJs, ZJs, MJs, TJs. That means if you’ve got an XJ Cherokee, for example, and you’re sick of your front end slipping around and doing nothing in the mud, you could get a cheap upgrade by stripping a Volvo in your local junkyard. Easy, right? Well…
![The Volvo Differential Part 3 00 02 37](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/The-Volvo-Differential-Part-3-00-02-37-e1736802072671.jpg)
The Challenges
You might be thinking this all sounds too perfect. After all, it’s an obscure mod to this day, and that’s for good reason. There are a few challenges
The biggest problem is actually finding the right parts. It’s not always easy to identify exactly which cars Volvo fitted with these G80 differentials. The Swedes threw these parts on a bunch of cars—mostly Volvo wagons with the tow package, as well as on some—but not all—of the Turbo models. If you spot a later Volvo 940 in the junkyard, it might have a G80 locker, too.
![The Volvo Differential Explained Part 2 00 06 06](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/The-Volvo-Differential-Explained-Part-2-00-06-06-e1736802091881.jpg)
So how do you find one? The gang at Enlisted Budget Videos on YouTube have had great success with this swap, and they use a simple rule. They hunt for late 1980s and early 90s models of the Volvo 240 and 740, looking for Turbos and those with the tow package. The latter are easy to spot with their obvious towballs hanging off the rear. A good tell is whether the rear end has a plate that says an “ANTI-SPIN” differential is fitted, though this isn’t a surefire way to tell. Word in the forums is that some later Volvo 940 models also feature the G80 differential which can be used in the Jeep application.
Having researched this article, I’ll provide a bit of advice. You can spend hours trying to untangle which Volvos originally shipped with a G80 and which didn’t, and which housings are compatible and it goes on and on and on. It’s worth remembering to a degree that none of this stuff is well documented, with forums full of dead links and incorrect information. Adding to the problem, many of these cars have been chopped and changed many times over in the four decades since they were built. My advice is to simply hit the junkyard and get under the cars and figure it out. I’d hoped to provide a more definitive list of which models are properly equipped but it’s nearly impossible to do so beyond “Turbos and models with the tow package are your best bet.”
![The Volvo Differential Explained Part 2 00 04 17](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/The-Volvo-Differential-Explained-Part-2-00-04-17-e1736802111699.jpg)
![Diff Locker Detail Ts](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/Diff_locker_detail_TS.jpg)
If you go with this swap, you’re going to have to pull the differential out of the Volvo, and then strip it down. What you really want is the G80 diff center itself. You’re then going to want to swap the ring gear to suit your Jeep’s existing axle ratio—because you can’t use the Volvo ring and pinion in the Jeep axle housing. It’s worth noting that manual-equipped vehicles typically have a diff carrier set up for 3.55 gearing or higher. Meanwhile, autos tend to have a carrier suitable for 3.73 gearing or lower. It’s worth taking that into account when you’re trying to pick the right carrier to suit the final drive ratio you’re aiming for in your Jeep.
You’ll also need to get the diff properly installed, with the correct backlash and preload and all that. You can do this yourself with the right tools, or farm it out to a pro shop if you’re not comfortable. However, in the latter case, you might find a professional diff shop might be reluctant to muck around with something you yanked from an old Swedish wagon.
![The Volvo Differential Explained 00 00 34](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/The-Volvo-Differential-Explained-00-00-34.jpg)
When it comes time to put your Jeep back together, you might also find your drive shafts don’t quite fit. In the case of an XJ Cherokee, it’s necessary to cut 3/8″ of an inch off the driver’s side axle to make everything work. Other applications may differ but should be around that much or less.
Is it worth it? The answer is it depends. If your Jeep needs better traction in the slippery stuff, and you can snag the right Volvo diff on the cheap, and you can install it? Yes, this is a great mod. If you have limited time, limited wrenching experience, and no taste for navigating decade-old forum threads… I’d look elsewhere. Your local four-wheeler shop could probably sort you out an easier solution.
![Volvo 240 Series 1989 Photos 1](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/volvo_240-series_1989_photos_1-e1736802541278.jpg)
![Volvo 740 1990 Images 1](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/volvo_740_1990_images_1-e1736802563362.jpg)
![Wallpapers Volvo 940 1990 1](https://images-stag.jazelc.com/uploads/theautopian-m2en/wallpapers_volvo_940_1990_1-e1736802585362.jpg)
There are also a lot of people online with serious opinions about the G80 locker. In various GM applications, the G80 was referred to as a Gov-Lock differential, but it soon gained the nickname “Gov-Bomb” for its propensity towards self-destruction. However, it’s worth noting that in those applications, the G80 is usually used in the rear end on heavy full-sized trucks, versus being used up front in a lightweight older Jeep. Plus, the G80 is still offered as an option by GM to this day—suggesting it’s not as bad as some might make it out to be.
In any case, there is proof that this swap can work in a Jeep without major issue. “We’ve used it in a racing application and so have friends of ours,” said Kevin of Enlisted Budget Videos. “Never had an issue using it in full time [4WD]… We’ve used it specifically in a rock environment before and it appeared to do quite well.”
A G80 differential can make your front end a lot more useful out on the trail.
The difficulty and risk does not invalidate this swap by any means. Just because something is a little tricky to pull off, it doesn’t mean it’s not valuable. This is a neat budget solution for having more off-road fun with your Jeep—it just takes some fiddling to pull it off. Ultimately, that’s what makes it so cool. There’s nothing quite like finding a serious performance upgrade languishing in a wet and rusty family hauler in a dirty old junkyard. There are gains to be had everywhere for those with wrenches and the will to believe!
Image credits: Lewin Day, Volvo, Enlisted Budget Videos via YouTube Screenshot, Scott “Purdy Man” Overton via YouTube screenshot
As a diff builder with almost 40 years of experience(where did the time go?), this is a really, really bad idea. G80 diffs(commonly known as Gov-Lok’s) aren’t the worst design in the world for larger differentials like the 10.5″ GM and 11.5″ AAM diffs, but the little 7.5/7.6″ GM’s and Volvo D30’s have TINY internal parts and will break under any sort of serious use. If you’re lucky, the governor teeth break and it reverts to an open diff, but if you’re not, you get spider, side-gear and case breakage which can and will destroy the whole diff.
At one point at my shop I had a 55-gallon drum half-full of broken G80 diffs, mostly 8.5/8.6 GM and 7.5/7.6 GM diffs, it was educational to my customers that didn’t understand why they broke – “I didn’t beat on the vehicle or anything” – until I could show them with undeniable proof that they are just undersize and underengineered.
This is the kind of mod I loved when young & broke—and there were far more old fashioned junkyards around.
These days, I put more value on my time, and haven’t been able to just walk around in an old junkyard in over a decade. The Pick&Save just ain’t the same as hiking around a mountainside beating bushes for snakes & snapping pictures of fence lizards
I’m a sucker for these kinds of traction-aid-related things. My favorite so far is the madman who swapped in an electronic locker into the rear of his second gen RAV4.
Ok this is pretty awesome. AS a former 3 time XJ owner, and spender of quite a bit of seat time in GM trucks with the G80 I’m intrigued. Will add that in two GMT800 pickups my dad owned the difference between an open diff truck and a Z71 with the g80 diff in snowy or icy driving conditions was the difference between being nearly undrivable in 2wd in the open diff truck and carefully doable in the z71.
One question springs to mind though that I’m trying to think through and maybe it’s a real edge case that I haven’t though through. But let’s say I’m on my way to do some wheeling and am toodling around on snow or icy roads and take a corner that winds up being more slippery than expected-or I’m going a little too fast and the inside front starts spinning and that front diff locks up won’t it exacerbate any under steer I’m experiencing as well as possibly walking the front end the way a locked up rear will do? Still might be worth the tradeoff but imo this is enough within the realm of possibility that a person might not want to do this if they daily their Jeep?
If there’s an equivalent for the current gen Dana 35s they put in the Wrangler Sport, I’d gladly take the risk on one of those right now. Has to be better than the parts that just grenaded themselves.
I have a TJ (4.0L, 5 speed) that originally came with a Dana 35 with 3.07 gears, I went looking for some 3.73 axles when I went to 31″ tires. These were usually on jeeps with a tow package. I found a guy who had a tow package jeep he was parting out. The axles were pretty much destroyed so I got them cheap. When I pulled them apart, I found a Positrac unit in the rear and noticed that they were 3.55 ratios. It turns out that they used 3.55’s in one year only for the tow package. It still drives decently as I only have 31″ tires and the posi is nice in winter.
4cyl auto TJs often have 3.73s, too. Especially early ones with the 3sp slushbox. That’s where I sourced mine and, when paired with 31s, were still deeper than stock tires/gears. It was a torquey little thing and a blast to drive!
Yeah, the tow package 4.0’s had 3.73 all but that one year (1997, I think) and I happened to get that. Even with 3.55, the 6 cylinder does well with 31s.
I’ve had 2 G80s, both in 2wd GMT pickups. They lock up hard but I never had issues, even doing brake stands etc. Maybe high power or off-roading they are more likely to GOV-BOMB.
Also. Surprised Mr. Tracy didn’t have anything to say here. He’s the XJ and Jeep resident expert.
He’s also supposed to be on his honeymoon this week. His new wife might not appreciate him ditching her for a Jeep so soon after the wedding. 😉
The 8.6″ rear ends were woefully undersized for the weight of the gmt400 platform. The 10″ drums were also too small. The lucky trucks that got the 9.5″ or 10.5″ rear ends were stout, and the gov-lock didn’t experience the same issues.
The idea of swapping IN a g80 is insane to me, but maybe the Jeep is light enough that it works.
Ahh ok, makes sense now. Mine were lightweight RCSB, cant imagine a loaded up Suburban or Yukon XL yeah thats a problem. The 14 bolt should have been on all of them, not just the HO 6.0. Oh well, the engines dont die so theres that
Volvo wagon owners looking at Jeeps.
Isn’t there a Dana 30 Power-Lock clutch type diff available?
It would toughen up your arms and reactions, but it is rebuildable, shim-able and has a reduced tendency to explode with clutch dumps.
IIRC some Chrysler 8 3/4″ rear ends had a version of this LSD installed in the ’60’s with up to automatic equipped 426 Hemi cars. Come to think of it the “Genius” of the title is making sense, aftermarket is likely cheaper than finding one of these.
On the other hand the Eaton unit is a little more civilized, and with low power applications will not explode if applied with a modicum of sense and is cheap while the supply lasts.
I really hope that’s a Metallica reference on the lead image. And if it is: Bravo!
Please don’t send a bunch of asswagon kids into the junkyards so they can hack apart old Volvos for their crummy Jeep project. There are so many other ways to solve this particular problem that don’t involve ruining a nice Volvo that is happily rotting away in a salvage lot.
Meh, the issue isn’t hacking up a Breadbox, to be honest there are so many better things than factory G80’s that even the remaining Volvo’s should consider over a stocker locker and they do come from the Jeep world.
The bigger question is does it make financial sense to try this using worn out parts on a D30? I mean even with decent G2 axles, they are still failure prone. Eaton True Trac is only around 500 new for a D30, it would be a better option. though I do get it when a car hoarder has spare things laying around and way more time than money.
I think you would have to pay me to install a gov-loc in something I owned.
On top of the reliability issues they have a pretty tough engagement when they lock.
I’d love to see it done the other way around.
Also, can we get “some geniuses” as a separate tag?
“There are very few similarities between Volvo’s boxy wagons and America’s favorite off-roaders.”
Really? I’m pretty sure Jeep’s designers were looking at a 245 when they sketched the XJ body.
Yeah, us XJ owners often joke that we drive lifted Volvos!
This kind of weird content is why I followed you guys away from that other site.
I’m glad you guys kept most of the best journalists, and then added this David Tracy Jr.
I didn’t realize Christian Horner drove a white Volvo wagon and was into boats. Interesting!
I love obscure mods like this. I know opinions vary on the G80 in truck applications, and I get it. Anecdotally I’ve had 4 or 5 trucks with them and never had any problems but YMMV. I’d wager they’re pretty stout in lighter applications.
I have neither the teaching, tools, time or temperament to pull this off, but I get a real kick from reading posts like this. Learn something every time. Thanks.
Or you can toss in a lunchbox locker for under $300, not have to cut axle shafts, worry about setting up gears, etc.
This. As cool as this is, there’s a certain amount of “penny wise, pound foolish” with these sorts of projects.
I have used Spartan lockers with great success in the past, though with the D30 in my TJ I’m going the “D44 w/ e-locker” route since a locker with my 35s would end poorly.
I have had great success with the G80 in GM trucks for 30+ years, but I don’t see it worth the effort in this scenario unless someone hands you a prepped Volvo G80 for free.
I had a G80 in the back of my S10 and it sure seemed like it never really worked.
Ran an aussie locker in a D30 on my 94 XJ and loved it. Was about to do the same on my 01 when a pair of built axles fell into my lap… ended up Rubi D44 front/Ford 8.8 rear with ARB’s in both ends. Now that was fun.
Yeah, the G80s in the 10-bolts were hit or miss, but they worked pretty well in the 12-bolts and 14-bolts.
When I picked up my TJ it already had a trusses JK D44 with a Detroit swapped into the rear and a trussed JK D44 with a factory e-locker almost ready for assembly to put in the front. I have become so used to selectable lockers front and rear over the last decade and a half that only having a Detroit in the back and an open carrier in the front is driving me nuts. Talk about first world problems…
Certainly it seems likely you might find a HD44 or even an already locked rubicon 44 in most junk yard these days.
Doubtful (especially for the front). Wranglers barely ever make it into the u-pick yards because the parts are so desirable. Doubly for the Rubicon where the salvage guys will pull the axles and transfer cases to sell for thousands more than basic Jeep parts.
This is a good point. There are now a lot of specialty Jeep salvage yards that buy Jeeps from normal salvage yards and then capitalize on the desirability of parts for older Jeeps.
Finding a JK D44 in the junkyard or on Craigslist is beyond trivial, but more often than not someone has already plucked the e-locker out of the Rubicon axles in order to sell them separately at a premium. I’ve been keeping my eyes out of a factory JK e-locker to swap out my rear Detroit locker (I don’t like the road manners of Detroits), but these days used ones are commanding big bucks because the pricing of new ones has gotten out of hand.
I know the Factory E-Locker parts are becoming harder to find and they were not the best anyway, but can see them getting harder to find I suppose because of the parts that do commonly seem to fail. replaced the rear locker with an Eaton air locker on Barb’s Jeep recently. it is not much fun to strip out the parts in a garage with air tools, I cannot imagine what it is like doing it in the dirt under a Volvo sitting on 3 spare tires on each side of he axle though.
They work fine off road, but can get scary on wet or icy roads at speeds above 30 mph. I can recall a few pucker butt moments in snow in a jeep with lunch box lockers.