It’s not a controversial statement that Toyota has made some of the greatest trucks and SUVs of all time. The Land Cruiser is an off-road legend, the Hilux is invincible, the Tundra has historically offered extreme longevity, and the FJ Cruiser is a cult classic. But what about the Sequoia? It’s made with much of the stuff that makes other Toyota SUVs and trucks legendary, yet it’s often forgotten. It’s time to change that, and here’s why you should put the original Toyota Sequoia on your radar.
Welcome to Beige Cars You’re Sleeping On, a weekly series in which we raise the profile of some quiet greats. We’re talking vehicles that are secretly awesome, but go unsung because of either a boring image or the lack of an image altogether.
The original Sequoia was a big leap forward for Toyota, literally. Hot off the heels of launching its first dedicated half-ton truck for the American market, the Japanese giant decided it would be a good idea to print some money with a full-sized SUV. Keep in mind, this was around the turn of the millennium when the original Hummer was hot, the Ford Expedition was kicking off, and GM was treading new waters with the first Cadillac Escalade.
Unsurprisingly, there’s a whole lot of Tundra underneath the original Sequoia. The front half of the frame is identical to that of a first-generation Tundra, while the rear section incorporates a unique five-link coil-sprung solid axle rear suspension. Chuck in some additional body mounts for a massive passenger compartment with seating up to eight, and you have a time-tested formula for creating a full-size body-on-frame SUV.
Under the hood of every first-generation Sequoia is a 2UZ-FE 4.7-liter V8, the same one that’s proven to be capable of one million miles. Starting life with 240 horsepower, it gained variable valve timing for 2005 and was briefly rated at 282 horsepower before adjustments to how horsepower is calculated knocked that figure down to 273 horsepower for 2006 and 2007. Similarly, model years 2001 through 2004 got a four-speed automatic transmission, while 2005 and later models got a five-speed automatic. The 2005 model year also marked the arrival of a Torsen limited-slip center differential, a worthwhile upgrade for all-weather traction. All of these powertrain components are quite tough, and so long as you keep the body free of corrosion, this is an SUV that’s built to last.
Intriguingly, the original Sequoia slotted between the Ford Expedition and Chevrolet Tahoe on size, with one big exception — this thing has a whopping 10.6 inches of ground clearance. That helps give this thing an approach angle of 28 degrees and a departure angle of 20 degrees, respectable figures for a full-size SUV. Add in a proper crawl ratio plus skid plates for the fuel tank and transfer case on all four-wheel-drive models, and the Sequoia could be a genuine overlanding contender for wider trails.
Handling? Don’t push it, as Brock Yates of Car And Driver eloquently laid out the handling limitations of body-on-frame sport utility vehicles.
As expected, its road manners are prim and proper, in the narrow context of sport-utilities. (Note: With the possible exception of the BMW X5, there isn’t an SUV built that could be described as possessing decent handling.) Our Sequoia, weighing in at 5251 pounds and standing two inches more than six feet tall, and with 10.6 inches of ground clearance, wobbled around the skidpad generating 0.71 g of cornering force. This is not a bad number for an SUV of this size, but the Sequoia cannot be confused with a modern sedan.
Just sit back, don’t get too greedy, and revel in the silky smooth ride quality. These things were built for towing more than 6,000 pounds over substantial distances, with plenty of passengers aboard. Doing so today, you’ll find yourself admiring the unusual yet nostalgic interior.
There’s a hint of third-generation Ford Taurus to the ovoid center stack, but the vast majority of switchgear is pleasantly bubbly, as only things designed in a climate of post-Cold War optimism could be. All the window switches and interior door handles feel impeccably damped in that Y2K Toyota way, and lovely, pragmatic touches are everywhere. The ignition tumbler is illuminated in a pale green glow so you can easily find it in the dark. The rear window rolls down at the press of a button for an open-air experience. There are bonus cup holders that slide out from the dashboard in case you run out of slots in the console. Toyota knew exactly what it was doing when the Sequoia was made, and the end result still holds up today.
It’s also worth noting that this rig got some reasonably fancy stuff, and I’m not just talking about available ruched leather. The Limited trim got a proper trip computer, dual-zone front climate control, heated seats, and a 10-speaker JBL audio system, even in its first year on the market. Even the base model got extendable dual sun visors, stability control, privacy glass, and a buttload of 12-volt power outlets. Over time, the options list would expand to include DVD navigation, rear seat entertainment, and load-leveling rear suspension. Handy stuff back in the day.
Best of all, the original Sequoia is one of the more affordable entry points into the Toyota truck kingdom. It’s not hard to find good examples under $6,000, like this 2004 Limited example for sale in California. Sure, it has 201,000 miles on the clock, the black vinyl decals on the rear pillars are faded, and the headlight lenses are quite yellowed, but the interior’s in solid shape, and a bit of polish and some cheap vinyl wrap will have this thing looking proper.
If you’re looking for a cheaper Land Cruiser alternative for proper off-road shenanigans, this probably isn’t it. However, if you’re looking for a higher-quality alternative to a Chevrolet Tahoe or Ford Expedition, this might just be the ticket. You get a whole lot of Toyota truck goodness without much of the Toyota truck tax, and if that isn’t proof the original Toyota Sequoia is underrated, I don’t know what is.
(Photo credits: Toyota, Autotrader seller)
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Major issues with these that are unmentioned –
1) You have to pull the intake to change the starter, as its mounted on top of the engine,
2) Gotta keep up with the timing belt services,
3) The Secondary Air Injection System fans have to be disabled, as they will explode and potentially ruin your engine, as well as keeping you in limp mode forever. Here’s a link to the bypass kit: https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-1-v36h/ ,
4) That frame can rust badly if the vehicle spent any time in the salt.
I owned a 2007 for 12 years. Believe me on these.
The starter isn’t as bad as made out to be. I swapped a starter in my friend’s Tundra basically in the middle of the desert with cheapo Harbor Freight tool set and it wasn’t that bad, other than the starter not actually being the cause of the problem so I replaced it for no reason.
Secondary air injection only applies to 2005+. That’s part of the reason I’m thankful to have a 2004, along with a manual transfer case range selector, transmission with a dipstick, and lack of VVTI. Less stuff to go wrong and easier to work on.
Wild, my 02 Tundra has only needed… 2? starters, fans aren’t a thing on the earlier ones, and the original frame is still as black as the day it rolled off the line. I will admit I do timing belts by time and not by miles, but it doesn’t have all that many miles on it (635k). The only things it chews are O2 sensors and brakes, and now catalytic converters since aftermarket ones suck.
currently looking for an 05-07 4wd limited. i live in NJ but happy to travel. please send links. captains chairs preferred
God damn it Thomas, I just started looking at these! There goes the cheap values…
Just check the frame for rot and budget $1,200 or so for the timing belt service. I was looking or one of these a few years back, nobody ever did the TBelt on time. Biggest weakness of this motor, IMO.
The earlier non-VVT engines aren’t interference, so at least you won’t destroy your engine if the belt goes. And anecdotally I’ve seen plenty of these go past 90K miles between timing belt changes with very few actual belt failures.
The ’04 Sequoia I bought was one owner but didn’t have service records. Supposedly the timing belt had been replaced about 30K miles ago according to the seller. The only proof I have is that I pulled the timing cover off and saw that the timing belt looked fine and was Mitsuboshi brand, which is the brand of belt that’s included in Aisin (OEM Toyota supplier) timing belt kits. Based on all this I decided to roll the dice and will do a timing belt job in like 5 years from now.
I owned the Tundra with same engine. Everybody insists on replacing the timing belt belt I don’t recall reading of one instance where it went bad. I replaced mine at 170k.
Mine went well over 100, maybe pushing 200 without a timing belt change by time instead of by miles
Toyota Trucks of that era up to some time in the late teens have serious frame rust issues. Toyota has grudgingly acknowledged some of them, but not all even though its similar or identical frames from the same manufacturer. I don’t know the Tundra/Sequoia frame specifically but from the comments it looks like they had the same issues.
Be careful when you’re looking at trucks and try to buy one from somewhere they don’t salt the roads. It looks like Safe-T-Cap makes replacement sections for Tundras, but who knows how many of them will fit the Sequoia. Remediating the rust, even if the structure of the frame is still good, is a dirty and brutal DIY task. I’ve done most of mine myself but I’m bringing it somewhere to finish the last 1/3 in the front.
No matter where I lived, salt or not, I would have the frame undercoated with Fluid Film or Waxoyl.
Yes, Toyota had a recall on the Sequoia as well and replaced quite a few frames. When shopping for one of these, that’s a big thing to look for since the new frames typically included a lot of new suspension bits too.
Indeed, checking for frame rust is absolutely a requirement. I was lucky to buy a native San Diego vehicle.
I have a 2000 Tundra and 2001 4Runner already and kind of want a Sequoia so I can get stupid with a lift and big tires on the 4Runner but they are no longer a sneaky deal, at least not near me. Hardly anything is a sneaky deal anymore.
My brother picked up one of these years ago. Had the frame replaced on a recall, which also meant stuff attached to the frame, like brakelines, were replaced. He likes it a lot, his wife, not so much. An old vehicle, even a Toyota, still needs regular attention & care to keep running.
A $5k Sequoia would make a great blizzard beast.
My coworker had one of this, the transmission shifter linkage broke at the frame area. When she took it for a repair, they told her the car was really rusted underneath and wasnt worth fixing it. The rust wasnt on the sheet metal, I guess it was the frame. I told her I could buy it from her but she didnt wanted to sell it in the condition it was. She send it to the junkyard, pretty sad since the car had 300k miles and run so smooth.
Quit giving away my secrets! haha
Also, if you do plan to offroad them, be careful of the front diff. Apparently it’s a touch fragile in high load, reverse situations…
First rule about Car Club is you don’t talk about Car Club (deals) out in the open. Sheesh, I was considering on of these.
If only it came with a diesel engine…
What do you think this is, Australia?
Totally relevant to my interests because I actually purchased a 2004 Sequoia Limited 4WD about a year ago. It’s been probably the best $4500 purchase I’ve made. It has 250K miles, the clear coat on the paint is toasted, and the leather seats have seen better days, but it runs great and has done everything I could ask it to do very well. I’ve done a bunch of maintenance and repair work to it. Right now I’m literally in the middle of replacing most of the front suspension and steering rack. It has generally been fairly easy to work on.
I wanted something I could take off road, something that could tow my E30 race car, and something ideally I could sleep in, but cheap. Something a little rough around the edges so I don’t feel bad about getting desert scratches, but mechanically sound. Settled on these and searched around for a while and pounced on this one and I don’t regret it. It has towed my race car out to the desert twice and did fine. I took it off roading in Death Valley and I was impressed at how capable it was.
I bought a hatch tent, built a platform for the back, put a full size foam mattress in the back and I’ve spent a total of 8 nights in it over the last year. It’s surprisingly comfortable and my wife and I have a few more camping trips planned over the next few months. It’s been great! The only downside is the fuel economy, but that’s why I daily drive a Mazda 3.
I can’t see that stock image of the Sequoia without thinking of what The Onion did with it: https://www.theonion.com/new-toyota-suv-holds-eight-passengers-and-their-suvs-1819586996
The coolest part of that is the little SUVs driving into the Sequoia are P38 Range Rovers.
Oooooo finally one I can add some insight to. Sequoias are great cars, they avoid the toyota tax, and they come with one of the most dead-nuts reliable engines of all time. My first sequoia was a $1000 beater with 400k miles on it that, frame rot aside, ran like a top and required zero maintenance. When it was time to set her out to pasture, I landed a 2006 with 194k on it for about $5k. The vvt and 5 speed is the way to go, especially at high elevations. However, modifying one and making it truly capable offroad (beyond forest service roads) is a chore. Balljoints wear out fast stock and faster when you have big tires on it. Rear shocks are mounted inboard the frame making them a genuine pain in the ass to replace. Front wheel bearings have to be pressed in and out of the spindle, exhaust manifolds crack at exactly 200k, vsc computers can be wonky, trunk handles break etc. That being said, My 2006 has done some incredible things off road and has never left me stranded. I’ve had to do a full suspension refresh/lift, upgraded high caster upper control arms, cv boots, and a driveshaft. It is let down by lack of a stock lsd/ rear locker but the atrac works decent enough. Awesome vehicle for camping as when you take the two rear seat rows out it measures almost 8 feet long and 3’10” wide. I love my sequoia even though its an absolute money pit. I put headers and a custom y pipe muffler delete on and the 4.7 sounds absolutely incredible while going absolutely nowhere.
Thanks for this insight. I’ve been considering one of these or a first gen Tundra for a while. There are loads of them for cheap money that are all rusted out up here in New England.
It’s crazy how the same gen Tundra is double or triple the asking price of a Sequoia.
Huh. Here in Minnesota their prices aren’t too far off. Sequoia isn’t that good of a deal: $9K for 200,000+ thousand. Tundra isn’t that ridiculously priced unless it is low milage, like this: https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/5TBJT32145S466028?partner=SBC_1
I’m in salty Maine and a beat up Sequoia is ~$3500, same shit Tundra is ~$7000. This is going by what I’ve seen on Craigslist over the last couple years, who knows if anyone pays that for a Tundra
Look for one that’s had the frame replaced under recall, they’re out there. The bodies tend to go on the dogleg inside the rear door, but that’s mostly cosmetic.
Oh God I forgot about how hard it was to change those rear shocks. Total PITA.
got the deepest gash on my hand replacing the rear shocks last summer
After years of trying to find a nice one of these, and instead going with a Lexus GX (back when they flew under everyone’s radar), I’m not sure these were ever underrated nor do they seem to be available “cheap”. Even when I lived in the PNW where the frame rot issue was pervasive, due to constant moisture and salty air, there was no shortage of enthusiasm for these. About the only way to get one cheap here in the Rockies is if it is 2wd and has over 300k miles, and even then “cheap” means $9000 instead of the $15,000 an identical 4×4 model would command. When a similar vintage and condition Tahoe/Yukon or Expedition is $3500, the Sequoia doesn’t seem like much of a bargain.
Not where you are living, but down here these are still close to that in price also.
And good luck finding what you may want. Most are trashed out and maintenance hungry at this age. Or if they are sweet looking and well cared for then you get the guy telling you “it’s 4K above blue book because it was well taken care of.” WTF?
But if I can ever find the holy grail, will not hesitate again.
People in the Rockies love their Toyotas. Any of them that have a 2-speed transfer case hold a premium, which we joke about being the “Toyota Tax” just like the Wrangler’s “Jeep Tax”. The Tacoma, 4Runner, Tundra, Sequoia, and especially the FJ Cruiser and Land Cruiser all command a hefty premium compared to their American counterparts. That somehow applies to the 2wd versions too, though not as severely. I wish I had bought my brother’s 2002 Tundra when he was selling it in Houston, as he sold it for practically nothing since nobody cares about them down there.
Agreed. Grew up in Co. mountains. I think the Toyota tax is hard to take, but always remember that good stuff is worth the extra premium cost.
An equivalent condition GM full size to a $15k Sequoia for sure costs more than $3500 in the Rockies. I don’t disagree in general, but that’s a cherry pick comparison if you found one for $3500. Mine is a raging POS, and I know that I could get $5000 or more for it
My apologies: $3800. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2003-gmc-yukon/7713140948.html
And this isn’t a cherry picked example – they abound in this price range and mileage. Here’s a mint one for $5700. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2004-chevy-tahoe-71-x/7713166779.html
oh, if you’re going 2003, you can absolutely get an equivalent Sequoia for less than $15k. I was thinking of an equivalent vintage GM product to a $15k Sequoia. There’s a 2013 with 180k miles for $16k on Autotrader right now
Well, we are talking first-gen Sequoias. The one I was looking at yesterday was a 2005 with 67k on it for $14,900, but it appears to have sold because I can’t find the listing today. But these nonsensically-priced ones are still for sale: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/englewood-2006-toyota-sequoia-sr5/7713380894.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/longmont-2005-toyota-sequoia-4×4-4wd/7712028375.html
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/fd757fa5-0ee6-4f26-9188-a3fbe71be755/?aff=atempest2&utm_campaign_id=2&utm_trusted=TRUE
Compared to them, the 2004 Tahoe I posted earlier is an absolute steal.
Dude, why do you have to do this to us
Since when have these been underrated? Very desirable and expensive for nice ones… especially with the frame rot issue.
One I had, I got from my brother, and passed onto my brother in law, over 240k now.
Better check those frames carefully for rust!
No no no no. Stop giving our secrets away. The secret to a good cheap Toyota 4wd used to be the GX, but that’s dead now. The Sequoias were the last bastion of sensibly priced Toyota trucks.
I get the popularity of capable long lasting vehicles. But at what point in string theory does a 20 year old Toyota with almost a quarter million miles fall? How many more miles does the engine and transmission have? What shape is the interior and other wear items in. No matter what anything at a quarter of a million miles and 20 years old is a crap shoot.
Depends on use and maintenance. That being said, I’ve seen these trucks with over a half million miles with few issues. There’s also those famous 1 million mile Tundras with the same 2UZ engine.
I don’t doubt that but I lean on those trucks being well maintained and staying in a household. How many are 5-6 owners? I would buy one new or lower miles and take care of it but not 250,000 miles 4 owners and hope it was maintained. Also again interior and other wear pots may cause less satisfaction.
Even a Toyota with 250k miles, multiple owners, and lack of maintenance is going to develop problems. But… given two vehicles, a Toyota and say a most GM/Ford/Chrysler vehicles with the same history… I’ll still have much higher confidence in the Toyota.
I didn’t disagree. The previous poster said the Toyota cost 3x more. So I compared 1 Toyota VS 3 Suburbans. Can’t anyone read anymore?
I sat in one with 240,000 and was blown away. It felt and drove like new. My Suburban with 260k is a totally different story. Eats oil, creaks, constant part replace, etc. It all depends on your cost proposition. I paid less than a third of that Sequoia for my Suburban. But you know what the Toyota owner hasn’t had to do? Worry about or fix anything
I don’t doubt you. But you paid a third you say? How long would 3 Suburbans seem new? And no matter what rubber wears and metal fatigues. It will loose the new feel at 1/4 million miles.
I had a 1991 standard Toyota pick up for nearly 30 years. Nothing fancy, A/C and 5 speed. Added nicer wheels and tires, and minor suspension upgrades.
But always took good care of it. And it hauled well over 3,000 lbs of cargo in the bed for years without ever a groan. And at close to 300K miles it looked showroom clean. My wife was always getting asked to sell it, and offered above what we paid for it new. When it was totaled by a dumb ass rear end at 50mph, it ran/looked so nice the insurance adjuster actually gave me a check 1K above value. Wish I could upload photos. Almost nothing spent on parts replacement until close to 200K miles. Even the clutch, rear brakes, exhaust were original and good when it was declared dead…
And 50 years owning pretty much nothing but Toyotas has proven to be a huge win for me. 250K on most of them is nothing.
I will take a 200K Toyota over almost anything. Seriously a 30 year old Toyota never bothered me one bit. YMMV though.
An American SUV just sort of causes my PTSD to kick in again.
So when I said 1 owner or family owner it was probably good and many owners not so good you wrote a 3 column response pretty much confirming it? Thanks
Did not even consider your comment on owners. Sorry. I have had Toyotas that were junked when I was a broke kid. Always ended up with something good with a few bucks and some work on my part. It just works for me.
Sorry if that positive life review of my experience caused offense to you.
But to your point, multiple owners can and do obviously affect the possible issues with any car/truck. And Toyota can take my money over almost any others, any day.
Oh no problem I love the Asian vehicles. I am an Isuzu fan. I have owned them since 1986 exclusively. But buying new any brand and proper maintenance is ideal. And proper Asian and maintenance is the best. I am DD a classic ISUZU I bought new and maintained and would take it cross country.
I feel like you haven’t spent much time with Toyota trucks. There’s a reason they command a premium. Everything in them wears better, from the interior switches to the rubber components. They’re just built to a higher standard than equivalent products. I’ve kept my Suburban on the road by a constant stream of replacement parts. My friend has barely touched her Sequoia in comparison. Again, it’s about the cost proposition to yourself. The Toyotas are better, full stop. At 1/4 million miles they absolutely feel new compared to my GM. What that’s worth is up to the buyer
Appreciate your take here.
Mine has exactly 251,000 miles on it. Drivers seat is cracked on the bolster, wheel speed sensors are giving me grief. However, it does not give me the slightest bit of hesitation taking it on cross country road trips. There’ll be maintenance to be done but if you keep it up they hold together pretty damn well.
I assume you have owned it from new. Have maintained it.
no i wouldve been 7 years old when it was purchased. I bought it with 194k
Great
“extendable dual sun visors”
I was so sad to see regular visors on the GX550 after experiencing the superiority of these dual visors on my GX470. So good.
I would almost bet that you can switch them out. Check with a good junk yard or see online if the parts interchange. Or call the dealer, if you have a decent parts guy available. It’s incredible how much one can upgrade.
I absolutely loved my 2095 beige sr5 sequoia. Could hold 8 adults comfortably to go out to lunch. Just cruised down the highway on family trips. It couldn’t care less about the 3500 lb popup we towed. Plenty of luggage space even with the three rows up. Almost needed to text my youngest in the back row to see if he was there. I regret getting rid of it
The 4runner was more fun but the sequoia was a reminder of the old monster wagons I grew up with. Alas, they bloated in size and cost the next model.
2095? Did you bring it back from 72 years in the future? No wonder it is so good.
88 mph in reverse?
3500 lbs! That’s a big pop up.
We own a second gen. Ride quality is great, fuel mileage is terrible, even for a bof suv. Pray that toyota reliability holds up, because it’s a nightmare to diagnose and work on, if it doesn’t.
Too bad it gets 0 MPG. Impressively bad given the engine technology versus say a suburban of similar vintage.
Yeah, was just going to say the MPG rating on this thing kills it for me.
i think that is the down side. MPG. The 4runners are super well designed from the beginning as well.
The data bears that out.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/best_vehicles/
nah not even. I got 15 ish in Denver city driving with traffic. Highway (under 73 mph) i can eek out 18-19 on 33″ Lt all terrains (hand calculated). I’m sure a well tuned lower mileage one could do better on highway tires. Total skill issue imo
My wife’s good friend has two Sequoias – a 2005 and a 2018 – and has always remarked about how she has gotten above the rated fuel mileage on both of them for the last 300k miles between them (240k on the 2005, 60k on the 2018). Similarly, my GX470 is rated for 14 city, 17 highway, and 15 combined. I get 17-18 mpg in pure city driving on 33″ AT tires, and the only time I’ve gotten less than 15mpg is when I am hauling my cargo trailer – and even then I averaged 13mpg over 1400 miles with 5000lbs in my trailer. People must push their vehicles a lot harder than I do to get such poor fuel mileage.
Also how much different brands and tire designs can affect mpg.
Same, I had an 06 and got 15-16 with 32″ tires and a lift.
It fascinates me what kind of fuel economy some bigger cars/SUVs can get, because I will always compare to my old conversion Econoline, which could get 17-18 on the highway.
Of course, the use cases for a 4×4 and a full-size van differ enough that a direct comparison isn’t a singular crucial data point, but whenever people talk about storage space, people capacity, tow/haul ratings, etc., that immediately comes to mind.
On the other hand, less fuel economy but with fewer mechanical issues would’ve been an acceptable tradeoff for my van. Damn thing lured me in with its looks (inside and out) but was mechanically cursed.
I had a rental 2018 Suburban in Moab a few years back, we averaged in the low twenties with that thing. We drove it from SLC to Moab and drove around Moab nearly a week before we needed to put fuel in it. Unreal. I drive my V6 4Runner like a grandma and can barely crack 19.
I feel like the Toyota engines of this era were unnecessarily complicated for the amount of power they made and fuel they consumed. Same goes for the 4.0 V6.