Amazon is a grand marketplace where you can buy all kinds of car parts. You can find just about anything you’re looking for on there, and usually at a reasonable price, too. However, if you’re heading there to purchase a new carburetor of questionable make, be wary. You might not be getting the reliable bargain you hoped for.
Let’s start with an example. Uncle Tony’s Garage specializes in working on old-school muscle cars. In a new video on YouTube, Tony says he’s having trouble with a cheap knock-off carburetor. His solution? Tearing it down to figure out why it’s performing so much worse than an original example from sixty years ago.
The carb in question is an unofficial reproduction of a Carter BBD [Ed Note: I hate the Carter BBD. I replaced mien with a Motorcraft 2150. -DT], a dual-barrel carb used on a variety of models. By pulling it apart, it becomes clear that this modern knock-off has some serious deficiencies compared to the genuine article.
They Don’t Make ‘Em Like They Used To
Tony’s not outright against knock-off carbs. “These cheap knock-off Amazon carburetors, I have used a few of them over the last few years, because in some cases, you can’t get a legit reproduction,” he explains. He notes that the price of the reproduction carbs is “dirt cheap” compared to sourcing an original example in good condition, and sometimes, it’s your only option. While he’s had some success fitting them in the past, he notes this is the first time he’s examined one that’s been in use for some time. He’s less than impressed with what he finds.
It all started with an old Barracuda project that wasn’t running quite properly. “So we bought this thing a month ago, drove it from where we bought it to the shop, and it needed work, you could tell that it wasn’t quite right,” says Tony. “No big deal, we’ll give it a tune up and we should be able to move on.” Yet despite fixing a number of obvious external issues on the engine, including swapping the intake out and a replacing a broken exhaust manifold, the car continued to run poorly. “It would never idle the same way twice, it would surge oddly… it was weird,” he explains. “It had a very very weak accelerator pump, which is unusual because it’s a relatively new carburetor.” That carburetor in question was the knock-off version of a Carter BBD.
With the carby on the bench, the inspection begins. “You can see it’s still in relatively new shape, visually it looks like it just came out of the box; a little dirty on the front, but that’s your overall condition of it,” says Tony, noting that on the outside, it look relatively okay. But just by feel, he says you can tell it’s not the real deal. He compares it to a Carter BBD off a running car that’s sat on the shelf for the last ten years or so. “The very first thing you notice is how light [the knock-offs] are, they probably weigh two-thirds of what an original carburetor [does].”
But what of the internals? “Both of these carburetors have been used on 10% ethanol gas,” says Tony. Despite the fuel’s poor reputation, the float bowl lid of the original Carter BBD looks fresh, clean and new. In contrast, the same area on the knock-off carb looks to be significantly corroded.
Uncle Tony puts both of these matters down to a difference in material quality, stating he believes the OEM parts were made with a superior alloy. Tony refers to the knock-off as being made of “plain aluminum” which probably isn’t the case.
It’s more likely the knock-off is using a crappy alloy rather than raw aluminum with no alloying elements at all. Indeed, many carburetors are made out of zinc alloys—and many carburetors on Amazon claim to be just that. Whether they’re made of specific alloys that are fit for purpose is another thing entirely. The corrosion would suggest they aren’t.
As for the accelerator pump? “I noticed [the knock-off] had a very weak accelerator pump shot, which is unusual, as BBDs have a very strong shot, generally speaking,” says Tony. The accelerator pump is crucial for drivability. It’s responsible for squirting an extra dose of fuel into the engine when you lean in to the accelerator—hence the name. Examining the accelerator pump on the knock-off carb reveals corroded parts with a hardened seal that would almost certainly be harming performance. Meanwhile, the older original Carter BBD has cleaner parts and a far fresher looking seal despite being a decade or more older.
It’s worth noting that these corrosion issues can seriously affect performance in a carburetor. Metering jets and moving components of the carburetor are very sensitive to dirt and debris. If they clog up and no longer flow or move freely, the carburetor will fail to meter the right amount of fuel, and the engine will run poorly. Having a carburetor that’s quickly corroding is a recipe for trouble, and it’s unlikely to run well for long.
As for the odd surging issue? Uncle Tony puts it down to the metering rod assembly. The metering rod assembly moves in response to engine vacuum, and is responsible for leaning out the mixture at low engine speeds. While the rod on the original carb moves freely, on the knock-off carb, the moving plate sticks easily. It’s showing some corrosion, and appears to have not been clearenced properly to the guide rod. This would severely interfere with the ability of the carb to deliver the right amount of fuel.
“Do I fix it? Do I go through it and try and make it function correctly, or do I throw it in the garbage?” asks Tony. “It’s obviously junk, but I’m going to work with it anyway, because a lot of you guys are going to be faced with the same situation.” His plan is to replace the accelerator pump and fix the metering rods so they move up and down freely. He points out that since old genuine carburetors are getting so thin on the ground, sometimes your only option is to work with what new parts are available on the market.
Like I said, Tony’s experience of these types of carburetors hasn’t been universally terrible. “I’ve been optimistic about these carburetors, and my experience in taking them out of the box and then bolting them on something so far has been fantastic,” he says. “This is the first one of these carburetors that’s been through a few cycles, it’s been through a year or two under the hood, it’s had fuel sitting in it.” His ultimate finding? While these carburetors work well when they’re new, they don’t seem to have anywhere near the longevity of the genuine article.
The final assessment? “My opinion of these things has definitely gone down somewhat,” Tony says. He doesn’t recommend avoiding them entirely, noting the realities of the modern market for these parts. “If you can’t find an original, usable version of what you need, sometimes it’s your only alternative,” he says. “But I would say it’s a good temporary alternative—something that will get your car running and down the road long enough for you to find the right thing and swap it on.”
Again, we only just showed a single example, so maybe that Amazon carb isn’t as bad as it seemed. With that said…
Not An Isolated Example
Tony’s not the only one out there tangling with these knock-off carburetors. YouTube channel Muscle Car Solutions has done multiple reviews of cheap knock-off carburetors, and he’s often less than impressed. One of his most popular videos concerns a cheap Edelbrock-type carb that he purchased on eBay for $230.
From the drop, his opinion is altogether negative. “I have to apologize for having this hot pile of garbage on my workbench,” he says. “It was worth it to show you why you should not spend your money on a knock-off carburetor that clearly has no business going on anything.” His first complaint? The quality of the Phillips fasteners that hold it together, as opposed to the nicer Torx hardware in modern genuine Edelbrock carbs. “They use the absolute cheapest garbage they can find,” he says. This can make it difficult to work on the carburetor without stripping screws and the like.
Other problems he identifies include a weak step-up spring, a broken float, and cheap gaskets. There’s also no thread locker on important fasteners, which can put your engine at risk if a screw happens to come loose. Nor were there reference markings to line up the electric choke. Worst of all though? This particular carby had proved difficult to tune on idle. That turned out to be because one of the idle screws had broken off inside the carb and was no longer properly adjustable.
This carb had only run for 30 minutes on the dyno. There’s no evidence of corrosion or anything like that, unsurprising given its short period of use. Regardless, the disassembly shows a whole bunch of other problems that you can find with these cheaper knock-off parts. Between its weak springs and broken components, it wasn’t exactly predictable during tuning. “Erratic was the word that was used to describe how the [air fuel ratio] bounced around,” he says. “It’s just not gonna be able to give you the correct control over the fuel system.”
Head out to auto forums and you’ll find plenty of other people griping about their knock-off carb experiences. There are tales of clogs from metal filings left over from manufacturing, poor quality castings, and lots of problems with leaks. The general consensus from most is that while sometimes you’ll get a good one, the quality is hit and miss at best.
The graveyard of chinese carbs
byu/john4927 inJustrolledintotheshop
Not The Best Choice
There are some parts of your car where you can often get away with cheaper parts. An exhaust, for example, is pretty simple—it’s some metal tubing welded together with a flange or two. Similarly, things like radiators, gas caps, and bulbs are unlikely to give you much trouble unless they’re really badly made. But a carburetor? Not so much.
You can almost think of a carburetor as a complex mechanical computer. It measures airflow and responds by dosing the correct amount of fuel in response. It does this across a wide range of engine operating conditions, from idle to high RPM, from cruising to high load hill climbs and hard acceleration. To achieve this feat, it has a ton of tiny little parts that all have to dance together perfectly to get the fuel delivery just right. It’s a precision piece of equipment that needs to be built well to work properly.
If you build a carburetor in a slapdash fashion, you’re going to have all kinds of problems. If your idle screws are falling apart, you’re never going to get your engine to tick over nicely. If your accelerator pump leaks, the car’s always going to hesitate when you hit the gas. If everything’s corroded, parts aren’t going to move freely and your jets are probably going to end up clogged, leaving your engine running lean or maybe even stalling out.
It’s a simple fact that carburetors are too mechanically delicate to run well when you build them without proper regards to quality. You might get lucky with a knock-off that’s put together well and manages to hang together for a while. But the truth is that the genuine article is more expensive because that money is spent on proper parts, proper materials, and quality checks that ensure the thing actually functions the way its supposed to. You can cheap out on those things, but you’ll often suffer the consequences.
You might save yourself $500 to $800 on a cheap knock-off carb. But if it has problems, and it costs you a day or two of tuning time? Then it’s all a wash and you’re out just as much cash anyway. Sometimes it’s easier to save yourself the trouble.
Now, since this is Autopian Asks, I put it to you: what car part would you never buy a cheap knock-off version of?
Image credits: Uncle Tony’s Garage via YouTube screenshot, Amazon, eBay, Muscle Car Solutions via YouTube screenshot, Summit Racing
Forget the knock-offs, one of those Edelbrocks proper is – or was – a dicey proposition. Unlike a lot of parts that Edelbrock proudly labels “Made in the USA”, their AFB-style carburetors like the 1406 I replaced on my old K10 a few years back were made offshore (what they have listed currently has “Made in the USA” cast into it. FWIW). Could never get it to work right, and the jets were always getting clogged, despite the truck having an entirely new fuel system from the tank forward.
I rately use cheap aftermarket parts. I did on my air-cooled Beetle for a while, but I quickly learned that those parts wear out much, much faster. Case in point: window winders. You can buy cheap ones from all the parts suppliers, but unless your windows are as easy to roll up as they were 50 years ago, the rubber knob will break off. Or, you can buy factory original style ones for twice the price. I got a set of those and they still work perfectly, after going through multiple sets of cheap ones, some of which broke after only a few times. Same with rubber/weatherstripping, the quality stuff I bought 10+ years ago still looks good, the cheap stuff dried out and cracked within a year or two. Same story for anything metal or chrome, the cheap stuff will rust even if the car never sees wet weather.
Same with mechanical parts. The aftermarket carburetor on my Beetle was supposedly an exact copy of the original. But I could never get it dialed in, even after a full rebuild. I bought a rebuilt, original German carb and the car runs better than it ever has. I did go out on a limb with Chinese pistons, cylinders, and heads because they came highly recommended by the local parts house. On close inspection they were well made and identical to the originals, even weighing in the same. So far, so good. To be clear they weren’t the cheapest ones available, I imagine those would be shit. They were just lower cost than the higher end options out there, and I was on a budget.
I could go on.
I recently bought a knockoff window regulator for my Volvo C30. The original was worn to the point that the window would get out of alignment as it went up. The knock-off was brand new. Its tolerences were so bad, the window still did not go up correctly. I bit the bullet and got a genuine Volvo part. Worked perfectly
I’m fairly name brand all the time, but especially so for things that are very difficult/time consuming to access.
If I have to spend a few hours removing other things to get to it, I’m going with the OEM part for sure as I don’t want have to do THAT again.
Right. Answer here.
Why would anyone with sense want to do the same job over, and over just to save a buck?
Not a wise use of time or effort.
No knock off parts for me. I bought some cheap, but highly rated fuel injectors for my son’s Kia Forte, they worked for a while, but he always had weird issues with the car that sometimes were hard to reproduce. After less than a year, one completely failed and we replaced with OEM injectors, and it has worked fine ever since. This was the last of several similar issues, so now I go with only reputable name brand parts or OEM.
In terms of aftermarket parts as a general rule, I avoid them. I sold auto parts for 5 years, and even as a customer of that store, I had to warranty a LARGE portion of the parts I bought for my rigs. In terms of cheap-o carburetors? I’ve found its heavily dependent on the original design, and the type of motor you are using. I went through SEVERAL knock off yama carburetors for my Stihl 2 stroke weedeater until I got one that sort of worked ok. My flathead briggs pushmower? Absolutely flawless, and has been running great for about 7 years. My opposed twin briggs rider? The knockoff has been a total piece of shit.
Just about anything. I learned my lesson with motor mounts. Years back I went the cheap route when I replaced the motor mounts in my old Focus. They didn’t last a week. There used to be a show on Netflix about a British sex shop and there was a scene where one of the shop managers was holding up a poorly made dildo and said “buy cheap, buy twice.” That always stuck with me.
Not sure I want to know about the failure modes and effects of a poorly made dildo…
I really like my car, I also enjoy that it drives, rides and feels the same way when I first drove it off the lot so many moons ago. So me personally: none. I may resort to a salvaged one if new OEM is idiotically expensive/unavailable and the part is in near-new shape (increasingly hard to get), but that’s the extent of it. Recently I had to replace the ABS pump and had to get one off 35k mile car. It almost broke me.
I don’t use cheap aftermarket parts on anything. I use mid or high priced aftermarket parts; Aisin timing belt kits, NGK, Bosch, etc… The only time I have ever purchased a high quality aftermarket part and it absolutely did not work was a Bosch MAF sensor for an e39 m52 bmw. Apparently nothing will work in that car except for an OEM Bremi part. That was the craziest thing. I managed to find one for a $100 though.
Water Pump for sure.
Timing belt kits (water pumps included), Spark Plugs, and Ignition coils. If an OEM lists a service life for a belt at a certain number of miles, I only feel confident in hitting that mileage with an OEM or OE Supplier sourced belt. When my GX470 is due next year, I’ll be getting the Aisin kit. Likewise for spark plugs and coils. Good NGK Iridium plugs are never more than $12/ea on Rock Auto, and I’ve heard so many stories of cheap failing ignition coils, I’d rather spend 30-50% more up front and not worry about why I have a random misfire.
The key is just finding the cheapest reliable source for those quality parts. Rock Auto pricing has yet to be beaten for nearly every project car I’ve had, and they’ve been ’70, ’82, ’90, and ’03 model years.
I’d add fluids. I only use OEM or certified equivalents for coolant, transmission, etc… anymore. I currently stock 2 different coolant chemistries and 3 transmission fluids. I buy high quality oil, air and trans filters as well.
Bought the complete Aisin kit when my MDX needed a timing belt/water pump a year ago. I also gave the shop doing the work 2 gallons of PentoFrost blue. They replaced diff oil too with Honda OEM fluid I provided.
You100% have to have the OE Honda diff fluid. I don’t think there is any aftermarket equivalent.
Nitrous Oxide bottle comes to mind.
Uh, everything, honestly, as long as we’re talking about absolutely bottom barrel priced parts. I’ll buy cheaper alternatives, sure, but if you tell me I can buy a $5 coil or a $30 tire, I’ll spend the money for quality 11 out of 10 times, and 5 times on Tuesday.
Exactly. You get what you pay for.
Honestly – nothing, never. OEM or better in all cases. I even use premium air fresheners. Nothing on your car is worth cheaping on.
So Little Trees, right, not the Fresh Shrubz from the dollar store…
Only the finest for my girls.
Any part that takes longer than like an hour to replace. Everything else? I’ll be happy to buy the cheap version. For example, the Smart Fortwo 451 OEM blower motor has a design fault which leads it to breaking sooner than it should. The clones have the same design fault, but at least cost much cheaper.
Same deal with a carburetor for some crappy $500 scooter from Facebook. I could clean or rebuild the scoot’s existing carb, but a Chinese carb works well enough for $20 and takes like 5 minutes to replace.
I suppose I also wouldn’t cheap out on a part that could lead to fiery death if it fails.
Anything that is critical to the function of the car. If it fails can I make it home safely?
Also, anything that takes over 4 hours to replace.
Window regulators, wiper transmission, egr valve, fine.
Brakes, wheel bearings, clutch slave cylinder, nope.
Bearings, period.
Tires! Tires can make or break (literally) a car.
As an owner of a first gen Tacoma (3rd gen 4runners, 90-series Prados are also relevant here), I only can buy OEM Lower ball joints. If those fail, you’re in for a bad time, and the OEM ones hold up much better than anything non-OEM.
Suspension parts. It’s so much time to do them, I don’t want to do them again… so I will only buy Meyle HD or Moog Problem Solver (both of which include grease fittings on all joints). This means once a year I can give every single joint of the suspension a couple pumps of fresh grease, which makes things last wayyyyyyy longer.
Also, one time I bought ‘front end kit’ for my old 88 accord off ebay. Good deal, right? Yeah it was, until a year and a half later when a tie rod just SHEARED OFF as I was going 70mph. The passenger front wheel went full lock, to the right, and I struggled to control the car with only one wheel steering, and got it to the side of the road. It scrubbed the tire down to nothing in one spot, so I had to get new tires too.
For almost anything else, I’m happy to try aftermarket parts, usually whatever is cheapest.
And for those of you saying brakes are one thing you shouldn’t skimp on… just FYI, the rotor doesn’t really matter. Get whatever is cheapest. Spend your money on good pads; majority of breaking is done through molecular bonds between the layer of pad material on the rotor, and the pad.
Eh, I’ve had my fair share of crappy rotors from the parts stores that warp wayyy before they should. I only run Zimmerman on my cars now.
I don’t consider anything aftermarket as a knockoff though. Plenty of aftermarket parts outperform their OEM versions.
man… I really don’t want to get into this…. but rotors don’t warp. Ever.
Remember Ford vs Ferrari? There was a guy named Carrol Smith who was on the GT40 program. He’s the author of a lot of books about race cars and engineering, and this is what he had to say about “the warped rotor myth”
“In fact every case of “warped brake disc” that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures”
https://www.centricparts.com/media/technical_bulletins_docs/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf
Basically…. you were using shitty pads. And you came to a stop when they were hot. Which transferred a thicker layer of pad material on one spot of your rotor, which, over time, causes the rotor to wear unevenly. It can even change the chemical composition of your rotor, from soft ductile cast iron, to brittle, hard, cementite.
Strongly urge you to read the article written above. Guarantee that guy knows what he is talking about, way more than you or I.
In my auto enthusiast circles, this is understood, but calling a rotor “warped” is still the lingo. Easier to say than “my brake pads unevenly deposited dust over the course of time causing my rotors to unevenly wear.”
And it’s not always poor quality pads, sometimes it is good pads but wrong application. I have a high end Stoptech BBK on my track toy, and when I stopped using it as a track toy and more as a DD oncekids came into play, my huge rotors “warped” because the track pads couldn’t get heated up enough on short drives around town and wore them unevenly. The performance shop I took it to had me replace the track pads with OEM Porsche pads, and the problem was solved… after a very expensive rotor turning.
Yup, all pads are a compromise in some way. But my original point…. get the cheapest rotors you can find. It does not matter. The pads are what is important, and when people cheap out on pads, they tend to get some with a low max operating temp, which makes it easier to get uneven deposits, and then they feel the pulsation, and then they claim the rotors were junk even though it was the pads the entire time.
Agreed. My go-to setup is for DDs has always been Hawk HPS pads with the cheapest blanks I can find at the auto parts store down the street.
Our family owned a repair shop for 40 years.
Can assure you that I have turned 1,000s of rotors.
My 20K turning machine assures me that rotors DO warp…
YMMV
Right.
Definitely brakes, ever since I saw this formative movie as a child: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2XvxDaIwCw
I really need to figure out how to alloy zinc with my aluminum (it melts at a relatively low temperature and boils off as a toxic gas below aluminum melting temps). I know the metallurgy is out there, I just need to learn it. I’d love to be able to cast halfway-decent parts.
Pretty much anything, but especially tires and brakes.
Throw out bearings.
Oil pumps.
There are some gasket sets that are worse than diy
Really anything that is a relatively simple design to manufacture but needs the metallurgy to be just right, and is a real pain in the ass to replace or can be the first domino to fall in a catastrophic failure.
The only knock-off items I’m comfortable buying for a car are underbody items like fender or underfloor liners, and headlight/tail light housings for cars where the OE parts are either no longer available or priced way too high
Any tips on a decent fender liner brand?
I’m about to get a set for a 2010 Prius.
I’m trying to avoid putting the under tray back on just to get torn off again.
Rant about why do they put sensitive electrical and plumbing stuff in the fenders where it needs to be protected by a liner?
Just get the part numbers of what you need and then search those on eBay, then verify that the parts pictured are correct and go for it. It’s all made in the same Chinese factories anyway
I wish I could agree. My last fender liner was so cheap and thin it came rolled up in a tube from Amazon. Screw that, and Amazon…And fuck the Chinese shit they sell us also.
Anything brake system related.