As paths of car ownership pile on the years, a certain level of maturity in respect to modification is often achieved. For instance, coilovers may be an easy way of dialing in ride height, but don’t expect cheap units to ride well. However, that doesn’t mean vehicles can’t be improved. For lifelong tinkerers, there’s always something to do, something to optimize, something to tweak. Today we’re asking about the modifications on your must-do list, or the minor annoyances you’d wish to improve on.
I’ll give you an example. While I wouldn’t really want to change anything about my Boxster, I can tell you right away what I would change about BMW 325i — I would give it a limited-slip differential.
Before my 325i, I had a 2004 Infiniti G35 sedan with the six-speed manual transmission, notable because 2004 was the year the viscous limited-slip differential came to the manual sedans. Now, viscous limited-slip differentials are inherently flawed because spirited use can overheat the special silicone fluid inside, leading to a substantial loss in effectiveness. However, a viscous limited-slip differential still beats the brakes off of an open differential when it comes to regulating wheel speed differences.
Although my 325i is brilliant to drive, there are conditions in which a limited-slip differential would be nice. A helical unit wouldn’t sacrifice everyday manners in pursuit of performance optimization, and it would be a relatively easy thing to install. So yeah, that’s one thing I’d change about my car. What would you change about yours? Perhaps there’s a modification you’re craving, or a factory option you feel you’re missing. Whatever the case, I’d love to hear about it.
(Photo credits: Thomas Hundal)
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This morning I couldn’t my 17 Jetta, after having driven three dogs down for a run at the lake. The key fob was frozen (as was I after a half-hour walking in the single digit degrees F wind next to the icy lake). It had to be stuck under my arm for five minutes before I could get the car to recognize it.
So I would like a physical key (in addition to the admittedly handy push-button start) for those times when you are stuck in a car with happy dogs fogging up the windows and you are wondering whether more walking in the windchill awaits you. And yes, I know I will get a new battery. But still – a physical key – nice back-up.
For door locks is there a pop out key/keyhole? For ignition I believe you can push the start button with the fob itself (RFID I believe kicks in), dead battery shouldn’t be an issue via this method.
+1, sounds like the exterior keyhole worked but I’d think the RFID would still work. If the Jetta is like the Golf the sensor might be on the steering column where a physical key would go which is a bit awkward to reach both that and the start button, as that’s on the console by the shifter, but same concept applies.
1999 LS400. I wish it had a modern ZF 8-speed auto. The 4.0 V8 is a lovely engine hamstrung by a transmission that balks at the thought of spirited driving. The current transmission is creamy smooth but is slow to downshift and to my mechanically sympathetic heart just isn’t cut out for flooring it constantly.
2012 X5 Diesel- I wish it rode better and had more comfortable/hugging front seats. The OEM shocks and struts and springs were changed all around at about 130k (under my ownership) and they never quite rode well. I replaced with Bilsteins and H&R springs deluding myself that a sportier ride was a better one. That may have worked with the oem 255/55-18s 50k miles ago, but now im at 180k and have 315/35- and 275/40-20s and if the road isn’t glass smooth i feel everything.
I plan to completely rebuild the suspension with new bushings and shocks and springs in the rear, since i recently re-did all the arms up front. I would like to go the complete airbag route for comfort’s sake, but it’s cost prohibitive.
I’m hoping that getting my W140 S420 up and running and into daily duty might be a smoother ride, and maybe that one will get the bags treatment in the future. but the siren call of a part-out profit sings to me cuz the initial purchase price was so low
99 Miata – My choice of rollbar. I did a Hard Dog Deuce but wish I had done a M2 Sport instead. It is fairly difficult to change since I will need to weld in the old holes.
04 Mazdaspeed Miata – A previous owner seems to have driven through wet tar or cement and it is splattered lightly over all of portions of the plastic fender liner and underside of the quarters/fenders. I would have that not be a thing. Been slowly removing it but it is very stubborn.
2000 S10 – the truck has 228k miles and is very clean inside and out with the exception of a baseball sized rust spot on the drivers cab corner. This is a common spot and they sell patch panels so eventually I will get this addressed.
2004 Mach 1 – the clutch on these is cable driven not hydraulic and the throw-out bearing is the bane of my existence. I have replaced it 4 times in 20k miles but every time it starts chirping again. The tob by design rides on the teeth of the clutch lightly and I am unsure what is causing mine to make noise because it seemingly engages perfectly. Replaced every component except the transmission itself. So my answer would be a T56 swap with all associated components needed. It may still chirp, who knows, but at least it would be stronger.
My 2017 supercab Raptor is perfect. I guess a louder color would be neat, like bright orange or lime green or something monster-trucky.
My 2005 CTS-V could use a modern stereo and some way to tone down the drone of the giant x-pipe exhaust I have on it.
2011 CTS wagon (not V)
I wish it was lighter by about 300 lbs. Through a combination of fairly meaty 245 tires and a transmission that I assume limits torque in 1st gear, even with 300HP and RWD it can barely spin the rears when raining and it doesn’t feel quick until 2nd gear.
Adding more power isn’t really an option because the 3.6 literally doesn’t gain any power from bolt-on upgrades unless you add a supercharger or nitrous.
For the ’17 Volt, I’d like if Fuel Maintenance Mode could be extended to two years instead of burning off all my remaining fuel after one year.
For the ’14 Cruze, being a Diesel, it is effectively a 2LT…but it was locked out from getting LTZ-only options like passive entry/push-button start and automatic climate control.
I don’t care so much about the latter, but I’d really love to not have to fumble around with the key fob and I have no idea why that wasn’t an option on the vehicle, since it was its own trim level. Thus far, I have not found a way to “swap” it in.
The ’07 Cobalt and ’81 Camaro, well, those don’t really fall under this. I’d honestly not change anything about the Cobalt, as I have modified it fully to my liking. And the Camaro has a lot more I need to do to it, though perhaps “running consistently” would be a great thing for it to do.
I wish it was the 530i instead of the 525i. That extra 40hp and slightly stiffer sway bars would be perfect in this car. Other than that, I’d change nothing.
My 2011 Juke has an interior with no flat surfaces and very little storage, but that doesn’t bother me too much. What bothers me most is the way the handles are designed. When the car is unlocked the little nubbin that indicates pops out right in front of your knuckle when you go to open the door. As a result, you end up locking the door on the way to opening it.
Otherwise I love that weird fish-faced car to death.
First world problem for sure, but I would change the speed when I can turn the 360 cameras on. I love having them for parking, but I hate having to come to a complete stop in the lane to turn them on. So small an issue, but so annoying.
Oh, they are nice when you have to park in tight spaces. But usually you can press the button at reasonable speeds (like auto locking doors speed). First time I know you have to go to a complete stop before activating them.
OK, maybe a slight exaggeration, but it’s slower than the speed at which I want to have two hands on the wheel and begin my turn. I need maybe 2 mph grace. Even after two years, it still gets me at least once a week.
I’ll leave out things that can be corrected by me actually fixing the cars, like lack of A/C and leaks.
2001 Ford F250, I would really like it better if it had coil springs in the front instead of leaf springs.
2004 Subaru Legacy, this car is great but it could really use more power.
2002 Ford Crown Victoria, better gearing. It has 3.27 gears and a long spaced 4 speed auto, that means 1st is good for 40mph and 2nd is good for 75mph. Oh and cruise control would be nice.
1995 BMW 325i, I can’t think of what I would improve other than fixing what’s broken. Maybe more power eventually.
I’d make the transmission reliable, and get rid of the active fuel management.
A Verano wagon. I don’t need all wheel drive like a tour x, but they made a 5 door Cruze, which shares the same platform as the Verano. A Wagon version of Verano could have worked.
Even easier, the Astra off which the Verano was based offered hatchbacks and a wagon (and some markets offered a fairly handsome wagon version of the 1st gen Cruze too). I always hoped they would offer some variation of the Astra hatch at Buick, or a more sporting Cruze hatch.
I’ve got an X4 that has literally every bell and whistle the previous owner had available to choose on the 28i in the 2017 Canada model year (including every tiny “M” badge you could fit on this thing) except for two… Heated steering wheel, and carplay…. I’d love to have both, but the heated wheel would have been top notch this past week, as it was 8F with ~30mph winds in my area.
I’ve only got a ~2 mile drive to work, but it’s been enough to make my fingers numb.
Can’t you code Carplay? Or was not available for that model year?
Not with the coder I have, at least. I did a tiny bit of research when I first bought the car, and there were a bunch of 3rd party “unlocks” but none of them seemed to accept my VIN (I assume because it’s a Canadian car in the US?) and I haven’t actually cared enough to spend real time on it 🙂
After this past week, though, I might actually see what it would take to swap the wheel out with a heated one, and then gut my current wheel and see if I can figure out how to hook it up to my racing sim, haha!
Elon
I have a 2020 RC350F sport. I love the blue mica 2.0 paint and orange brake calipers, LSD, 4 wheel steering and a built in g force meter. 835 watt Mark Levinson sound is awesome. Remote start via the app is convenient but I effing HATE that the car shuts off and I have to manually restart it once I open the door. Lexus says it’s for “security “ purposes but fixed it on the newer models. Why can’t they do an update and change that? Having to explain why my remote start turns OFF the car once I open the door is getting old
GT86: not a turbo, not a bigger engine, not red rear lights so it doesn’t look like I put terrible aftermarket rear lights on. No. What I want, and what it should have had all along, is a hatchback. Also more steering lock and a more aggressive LSD, but mostly a hatchback. There is so much room back there for bikes and chairs and Christmas trees, but you can’t use it.
Europa: heated seats. I’m old.
The Z4 Coupe I recently sold would have been the best car I’d ever owned if it had some steering feel, any at all. Also reliability and a LSD.
I have zero complaints about my RDX except the transmission. It’s way too eager to upshift at low speeds, so it’s constantly hunting when you’re going 25mph on city streets.
That’s a complaint you could make about a lot of modern gearboxes, and the culprit is simply the published fuel consumption (or rather how the test cycle is set up). The manufacturers program their boxes, engines and start-stop systems in such a way to squeeze every little bit out of a gallon during the test-cycle, never mind the real-work fuel consumption.
I’ll never forget the 6 and 7 sp VW DSG that would downshift not one, but two gears, whenever you even looked at the accelerator. I ended up blocking them manually in top gear as soon as I was on the highway, that way it was ok.
Yeah, I get why, it’s still annoying 🙂 I drive in “S” mode at lower speeds and it works fine. Other than that, it’s a great drive train.
Proper brakes on my Z4. I feel like the more I track it, the worse it gets. I need to find the budget to install my 6 pot calipers…
Pads might make a big difference. I put some expensive ones on my e36 and it stopped significantly better. Unfortunately it also went through said pads much faster.
Oh I’ve been down this road! Ferodo, CL brakes, Pagid… I’ve tried a bunch of very expensive pads. In the end I think it’ll be cost effective to put the bbk to help the 300$ front sets last longer.
Can we go back in time and give my 98’ RAV4 the TRD Pro treatment?
And that’s all I need…
I bought a new Kia Soul in 2019 as I didn’t like the upcoming 3rd gens styling much. I wish it got better fuel mileage, however, I am leadfooted and use the manual sportshift mode often. Getting in and out of it is a dream for an older fella with athritic hips like myself. I love everything about my box car EXCEPT, driving it in the rain. The side mirrors are rendered worthless because they accumulate water on the mirror surface and distort everything. Doesn’t matter too much, though, as I can barely see them through the fogged up windows when it rains. No matter what settings I’ve tried on the defroster, the interior windows fog up something awful when it rains. I’ve been tempted to get a set of window vents to see if that would help being able to crack a window, but I thankfully don’t live in a rainy climate or drive much. I just turned over the 24k mark last week after five+ years. It had 3 miles on it when I bought it fresh off of the delivery truck.
2020 Prius AWD. The doorside arm rest is a few inches lower than the center arm rest. So much that I fashioned a support for the door.
2021 Rav4 Hybrid. The steering wheel heater button is buried on the lower console AND hidden by the steering wheel. I have to bend over to spot the button to press it.
Do you like your Prius? If my Prius v dies, my current “goal” would be to replace it with a gen 4 one. Not fond of the loss of space in gen 5, plus they’re too new for me to afford anyway.
I live in the sometimes snowy/icy foothills of California with ventures up to Lake Tahoe in the winter. The AWD works really well, and I love that feature. I have made a few 700 mile one-day drives up to the Seattle area, and it is a nice comfortable vehicle that gets 50 MPG. I had a Gen 2 Prius for 300k miles when I was commuting 100 miles a day. While working from home now, the AWD is what I always wanted in a Prius, and now I have it. BTW, when PG&E kills the power, or it just goes out, we use the Prius (or our Rav4 Hybrid) as a power source for most of the house, which only uses about a gallon per day.
“BTW, when PG&E kills the power, or it just goes out, we use the Prius (or our Rav4 Hybrid) as a power source for most of the house, which only uses about a gallon per day.”
You’re living my dream: making a home generator out of a Prius.
If extended power outages are common and if you have natural gas delivery* you might even consider taking the dream a step further to use a junkyard Prius engine and the HV battery as a natural gas fired generator and whole home UPS.
If my cocktail napkin maths are correct such a generator could generate electricity cheaper than PG&E’s base EV rates** AND provide enough waste heat to keep a 1600 sqft home cozy even through a Minnesota winter.
*Or propane if the fuel costs are comparable.
** based solely on my own sketchy maths using my latest PG&E gas bill and PG&E’s home EV charging rates. Cost of generator and labor to install not included and may be substantial. Proper due diligence is strongly advised.
And we are only hooked up via the 12v battery. We are limited to about 1500 watts, and I use a 1300 watt inverter. We topped out at about 800 watts once. It isn’t enough for a full-size fridge or a well pump, so we have a mini-fridge for meds. A sosphisticated setup would run the inverter from the HV battery directly and some folks are doing that. It would likely provide enough for the full house. What I really like about using a transportation vehicle for generating power is that zero extra effort is needd to maintain the “generator” between uses.That is one of the big failings of backup generators, maintaining them bewteen uses.
I agree and I totally understand. My Prius generator dream does demand a significant commitment. And perhaps its overkill as a backup. It’s not for everyone.
I don’t think such a generator would need that much maintainence though. Advantages of plumbed NG and propane are they have no shelf life and they do not gum anything up which to my knowledge has been the main bugbear of home generators. They also burn very cleanly. NG in particular does not generate much if any soot so the oil should remain cleaner longer. One can always add an extra oil reservoir and extra filters to extend oil changes. Overall emissions should not be much worse than any NG fueled appliance.
The engine also has a starter and a battery minder so having it set up to start and stop automatically shouldn’t be hard. Generator duty is also a cakewalk compared to say taxi service. Prius taxis have hit 300-500k on their original engines so I’d expect a generator/UPS using an already reliable Prius to last a very, very long time.
My last 4 cars have been midsize sedans with 8-way power driver’s seat. I was always of the mind “I don’t need the power seat” – it’s just on the cars with the options I did want, would have been silly if they didn’t equip it.
Now that I have just manual height in my GTI…I wish I had it, just for little seat/cushion angle adjustments. A couple hours behind the wheel and I can feel my legs getting tense at the angle they’re at and I get fidgety trying to adjust for comfort. Could be the lesser front seat space of a smaller car, my right knee always rests against the console (I’m 5′ 10″ but pretty fit), could just be getting older. Sometimes reclining the seatback a bit helps take some pressure off my back and then in turn helps the overall comfort.
I’ve mentioned the interior lighting or lack thereof. Oh it’s dark? Let me turn on the map light by feeling around in the dark for one of the 4 different switches overhead that control the different interior lights.
2020 RC350F has interior lights that you touch anywhere on the light cover to turn on or off. It’s something I never knew I needed so much. I wonder why this wasn’t thought of sooner
Probably $. Even if it were just a click the lens itself to turn the map light on/off, that could be distinguished by feel better instead of 4 similar plastic buttons.
With the Fiata, the color. While the black goes great with the tan interior and silver detailings, it’s really not the color you want when you’re a little bit OCD. Every bit of dirt or paint imperfection stands out too much.
With the Mazda 2, the super light clutch. I imagine they wanted it to be light for to make it more comfortable sitting in traffic or something, but gosh does it make it easy to stall.
Electronic throttle delay! So lame! 2022 RAM Hemi. It’s like a one 1000 two 1000 three 1000 count before it reacts to the pedal input. I know this affects a lot of newer, drive-by, wire vehicles. I did just order a pedal commander, and I hear that is the fix.