It’s pretty well established by now that buying a first model-year car is not the best idea, especially if that car isn’t based on another well-established vehicle with a proven powertrain and mechanical/electrical architecture. “By the final year of production, all the bugs will have been worked out, so I should get a final model-year car, right?” Well, not so fast.
Let’s first establish this: The “never buy the first model-year” advice is good; I could probably give you a million examples of design flaws that were changed sometime in the middle of the production run. Here are a few just off the top of my head:
- Around 2005, General Motors fixed its 2.2-liter EcoTec four-cylinder engine’s timing chain lubrication problem after numerous early (first three model years) timing chain failures
- In 2013, Nissan replaced its quickly-degrading Leaf battery packs (first two model-years) to a new “Lizard” pack that lasts longer
- In 2013, Jeep fixed the issues its 2012 and 2013 Jeep Wranglers (first model years with new engine) were having with cylinder head valve guides
- In 2015, BMW changed its timing chain/guide design of its N20 2.0-liter engines after numerous engine failures (first three model years).
- In 2014, Subaru made engine changes after 2013 (first model-year) Scion FRS and Subaru BRZs valve spring failures
Here’s a quote from Consumer Reports about first model-year cars:
“…as our data has consistently shown, reliability-minded consumers would be best served by forgoing brand new vehicles in their first model year.”
It makes sense; as much research and development that automakers do before sending to customers, there are going to be some real-world conditions that the automaker will not have accounted for, and if this leads to significant failures and especially recalls, the automaker will likely fix the issue during the vehicle’s production run. Warranty repairs are expensive for automakers, after all.
But while those changes are happening something else will also be taking place: TCR
Technical Cost Reduction
TCR is technically an internal term used at DaimlerChrysler/Chrysler Group, LLC/FCA/Stellantis/whatever the hell people are calling the company I once worked for. It stands for “technical cost reduction,” and, well, I’ll allow FCA to define it in its “Supplier Help Resources” document:
FCA cost reduction program is a partnership with the supplier to reduce the cost of components and systems through innovative ideas that include material, function, form, process, and part management. If a supplier submits their idea into GPSIS, and it meets the FCA business case criteria without Decontenting, reducing Quality or Performance, FCA has 2 teams to support supplier idea development.
The short of it is that the goal is to reduce the cost of building the car not by reducing features, and not by reducing the car’s perceived quality — the point is to reduce cost in a way that’s imperceptible. At least, that’s the theory. In reality, sometimes the cost reductions are noticeable. Oftentimes they involve removing features that manufacturers’ data shows most folks don’t actually use, or they involve reducing the gauge of certain materials, or they involve change materials that companies don’t think customers will miss.
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Generally, an ideal TCR, when pointed out to a customer, would result in a reply: “Oh, I don’t really care about that. The car feels the same.” But to diehards, sometimes it’s hard to look at a TCR and not be a bit disappointed just knowing that you’re getting less for your money.
Take my 2021 BMW i3. I’ve been driving a 2014 for over a year, so stepping into my 2021, some cost-saves things become obvious to me. First, the glovebox lock is no longer made of metal; it now appears to be made entirely of plastic.
2014:
2021:
In addition, 2014 BMW i3s came with netting on the back of the front seats; this was a handy place to store documents. BMW removed that starting in 2015.
2014:
2021:
Then there’s the Giga World interior changes. From 2014 to 2017, it looked like this:
You can see a slight change in leather color and fabric; those aren’t the cost-saves obvious to me — it’s the armrests. Notice how they were leather before, and now they’re white leatherette:
These are obviously small changes, and the average customer isn’t going to care that much about a seat net, armrests, or a glovebox lock, so in that way, BMW’s TCR engineers did a good job.
Still, as I’m sure many diehard enthusiasts have experienced when going from an early build car to a later one — not having a feature that you had before, or giving up on quality even a tiny bit when you’ve gotten used to the early vehicle, is a tough pill to swallow.
With that said, I have noticed that earlier-built cars tend to have better fit and finish than later ones, though that’s more anecdotal (though it’s worth mentioning that tooling does wear out over time). With that said, despite TCR, if I had to choose between a first model-year vehicle and a final, I’d choose a final. Not only have some of the big design flaws been fixed so the automaker can avoid more costly warranty claims, but in order to remain competitive, oftentimes there are new features added in over the years, or some once-optional features becomes standard. My 2021 BMW i3S, for example, has fancy Adaptive Headlights that weren’t available on early cars, it has Apple Carplay that wasn’t available on early cars, it has a new iDrive system that early cars didn’t have, and it’s a Sport Model, which wasn’t an option before 2018.
So there’s definitely more to gain and more to avoid when you choose a final model-year vehicle over a first. TCRs, if done correctly, are things you should be able to deal with.
When i retired I knew I wanted a 2015 Fit. I got mine in late June 10 years ago. Mine is under 5000 VIN. It’s been brilliant. Given that it was a new generation in a new factory in a new country, I think the Japanese overlords were supervising its build. I love it still.
With EVs especially later seems like it’s often going to be best because of rapidly improving batteries.
So my final-model-year Mercedes-Benz CLK350 doesn’t have the problems with the 3.5L V6 that earlier years had…
….but in their infinite wisdom, MBUSA also deleted the previously standard Bluetooth – making it an option that my car was not ordered with (and would have cost @$1200 to retrofit with parts from scrapped cars).
So I probably have the only MBZ from the 21st century without Bluetooth capability.
This is the last year for the Rav4. I think current one with an ICE would last a long time. Proper automatic too. Next one will probably be hybrid only, which is _probably_ OK, but also probably more expensive.
The most reliable cars I’ve owned were early half first years (and the least, though the 260Z was only sold one year in the US, so does that count? Now that I think of it, my 5/1970 240Z was also first year, but was pretty rotted when I got it, still ran great, though, I can’t speak to its past)—my 11/1989 Legacy (over 270k of serious abuse, garaged for resto-modding that took too long to happen, taken by rust and vermin) and ’12 Focus (over 200k of fabled-Corolla-level reliability, totaled). My GR86 is also first year, though it’s largely carryover and I figured I was good as the FA24D is pretty similar to two previously existing versions of the FA engine. However, that did fail (covered under warranty without a fight for “RTV” I’m still a little suspicious of that cause, but it definitely suffered an oil pressure loss event that ate the bottom end bearings). Car’s otherwise been great, but I definitely can’t put it on the reliable list after that, nor with only 60k miles. Never owned a final year, though later Legacys definitely had some little detail changes that weren’t important, but made them seem a hair cheaper if one went from the earlier to the later car. I also liked the pre-facelift style better, though the headlights were barely better than sealed beams.
Regarding downgrades for later model years, with the Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique we called it “de-contenting.” The newer models had some mechanical/reliability fixes, but fewer features and comfort features.
My 2006 GMC Sierra definitely has some things cost cut out of it. It has rear drum brakes, when the GMT-800s debuted with standard 4-wheel discs. The interior door panels lost the fabric insert of the earlier trucks. There are some other nits one could pick too.
But it doesn’t have piston slap when cold like the early trucks did. 18 years in, and it’s never left me stranded, or stuck me with a repair bill over $600. Plus, since it was May of the final model year, they were clearing out the old trucks to make room for the new ones, I for a killer deal. I paid under $22k out the door, including a GM extended warranty, for a brand new crew cab pickup truck.
Interestingly, the first two years of the 2.7 EcoBoost were the ones to buy those. After that they went to a stupid belt-driven oil pump instead of a chain.
Unfortunately, in my experience those early F-150s were not particularly reliable outside of the engine, so it’s a bit of a catch-22.
Using the Jeep Wrangler example, one drawback of buying the later year versions is the they didn’t update much, including the head unit – I own a 2016 JKU that has the same radio as a 2008? It’s practically archaic, and really sours my experience.
the radio and general dahs/interior was one of the reasons that i made the decision to hold off and buy a JL rather than opt for a JK. i have the same radio that’s available in the JK in our 2012 Chrysler van, and it’s barely better than just listening to the engine. being able to get a heated wheel in addition to the heated seats in the Cold Weather group was also a big bonus. my hands hate a cold steering wheel in January.
The first V8 offered in Corvettes in 1955-6 (265 ci) had no standard engine oil filter. There was an optional thermostat mounted oil filter kit but some have no oil filtration at all.
Circa 2004 a buddy of mine bought a project ’64 Pontiac Gran Prix that somehow still had the owner’s manual intact in the glove box. Reading it through it we were apalled to see instructions on how to make your own oil filter using a toilet paper roll. No wonder engines back then all needed a rebuild by 100K or less.
First model years also tend to have cool new features/widgets that the Reviewers love and get attention…then they quietly get deleted next model year, so left with just regular ole car.
That’s true!
There are some vehicles where historical context makes a big difference, as well. Some started production pre-malaise and ended up completely limp in late years, while others started price-cut and finished with more features, such as the 996 that initially shared the Boxster nose, featured a 3.2L engine and lacked a glovebox, but gained independent styling, more interior features and a 3.6L engine as Porsche recovered financially and could afford to offer more options and improve their product.
And this is why I want to hold off until 2025 or 2026 for a Maverick, or until 2027 or 2028 for a Ramcharger
Yeah… I REALLY want the Ramcharger to be good the first year. I have a $100 spot in line. Ugh.
Just not sure I can afford the estimated price range of $68-85k. I mean, the most I’ve ever spent on a car is $33k. The least…a six pack of beer and a can of skoal.
Does the entire ethos of the Touareg in the US market count? Even through multiple generations, they kept decontenting the hell out of it, I assume solely to make the price palatable to US consumers, who were likely cross shopping it with Pilots and Sorentos instead of GLEs and X5s. I will never not mourn the loss of the Toe Rag.
I think it’s kind of funny the only manufacturer that constantly seems to pull the opposite move is Mercedes. The W211 gained better wiring in 07 and a new COMAND system in the last model year, but materials never suffered. The W212 E63 started out with a cloth headliner and vinyl dash, but they went back to standard Alcantara and leather in 2011. The facelift obviously pimped up the interior and material quality went WAYYY up. It also got a new version of COMAND in its last model year. The W213 added the new, nicer steering wheel and the Panamericana grille in the middle of the pre-facelift cycle. Something to think about.
Great point. On the wiring they had to improve though from the prior biodegradable one…
Oh, I know. I’ve had multiple Mercs with the dissapearo wiring.. more just pointing out that Mercedes is constantly improving and making mid year changes, but it’s hard to think of them taking something away mid generation (with the exception of night vision on the W212 facelift). Porsche/VW also does (did) this. I just didn’t mention it cause they’ve also made the most aggregious decontent of all time by taking 2 cylinders out of the 718 twins and VW just plain sucks now.
I figured you knew:)
Isn’t that the story with VW in general? 2000s VWs had interiors that were basically on par with Audis. I recently test drove a late MK7 GTi and a similar year WRX and was surprised to find that while the VW interior styling was classier the actual feel of dials, plastics, controls, etc was no better and in some cases worse than the Subaru.
I assume by late, you mean post facelift MK7? Cause the original made a pretty decent step up in quality from the MK6 imo, and was probably one of the best, most logical interiors ever put in a car. The facelift was the beginning of the downfall with the “Touch” interior as they called it. MK4, aka Pïech era, was peak. Although, having had Audis and VWs from most equivalent generations, the Audis always had way higher quality interiors.. it’s just that VW was so far above and beyond the rest of the mass market it seemed like an Audi. But ever since the B7 Passat, Mk6 Golf, quality has been dropping like a brick.
Hell, aside from the nicer (full) leather and alcantara headliner, the interior of my V10 Touareg is far, far nicer than my brother’s Cayenne Turbo and at least of equal quality. Of course, Porsche was still independent of the group back then, but VW really did used to be a cut above and now they’re just German (sometimes) Japanese cars.
Pretty sure it was new enough to be post facelift, I think it was an ’18. And don’t get me wrong it was better designed than the WRX per typical for a german car-I just found that the HVAC knobs and stereo buttons felt really chintzy, the steering wheel was tiny (though maybe that’s taste and not cost cutting) and generally didn’t feel as high quality as expected, I swear my brother’s base model 2012 golf has better seats…and I wanted to like the plaid sooooo much. I don’t know maybe I had too high of expectations going in, I expected to love it and was kind of meh though I still want to try another one with a stick.
And agree on toureg vs cayenne, I recently sold my ’08 Cayenne S but it was an obviously worse looking interior imo than the Toureg. Also, that’s rad you have the rare (I think) V10 version!
Yeah, thats 7.5. I haven’t been in a MK7 in about a year, but I do remember the HVAC knobs being kinda cheap and rattly feeling. With you there. The wheels are generally pretty thin and small on VAG products (I love this, most don’t). On the seats.. I know what you mean. I have a friend with a Sport and another with an Autobahn.. obviously the Autobahn seats are leather, but I do wonder if they’re a better seat (maybe different foam? idk). The plaid is obviously sick, but i dont care for sitting in them either. I wonder if the Autobahn had better leather on the wheel. Nicer Audis use calf leather as opposed to cow leather, and it makes a big difference. I recall the Autobahn being quite close in feel when it was new to my B8 S5.
Yeah, I love the 955/957 Cayenne, and I’ll probably get one, but the interior is so blah. Helped least of all by the, as we call it, vagina steering wheel. Sucks cause the actual size and thickness of the wheel is much better than the sailboat helm in the Touareg, but it’s so ugly lmao.
Rare in the US, not so much in ROW. But it’s a pretty cool rig. 😀
Yeah for interior alone I’d be tempted by a 958 if I were to buy another cayenne, plus it got the 957 GTS engine as standard in the S and an 8 speed trans. Oh and it weighs less. I worry though that to the point of this thread (sort) that the 958 would be less reliable since the Cayenne had proved its point and Porsche didn’t have to try so hard anymore with 2nd generation. But who knows you could also argue they had more money when they built the 958 so less likely to have cut corners…who knows. That steering wheel was not great looking lol.
And yeah I need to try a GTi with the leather seats, good point. Sadly as much as I like the plaid I need a comfortable seat that fits me. I remember my dad (also well over 6′) always thought higher end seats more importantly than having leather tended to have more comfortable better internals, don’t know if this is true but you gotta wonder.
Aside from the transfer case, the 958 Cayenne is remarkably reliable. They had fixed the bore scoring and coolant pipe issue with the V8, the transmission is basically bulletproof, electronics were better and materials and interior were much better, of course. They cheapened it and lightened it by removing the reduction gear from the TC and I’m mildly sure they pulled the mechanical lockers. It’s basically a different truck to the 955/7. With that they wanted to prove they could make a “Porsche SUV” but they knew it had to be capable off road or they’d be laughed at. Then, by the time the 958 came around, they realized almost nobody was off roading in them, so it got less SUV but more Porsche.
It still has the typical big VAG issues (motor mounts, control arms) and early ones had issues with the AC compressors (Denso unit, lol(sends metal shavings into the dryer bag and freezes the evap core)) and blower motors (water intrusion rusts bearing). But the only real grenade-a-car issue was the transfer case. It became well known pretty early, so if the PO knew and changed the fluid every 40-60k instead of 100k, they are fine. There’s a class action for them that just launched, so the warranty may very well end up getting extended or Porsche good-willing a lot of repairs. But they’re great, and overall much more reliable than the 955/7.
I’m with your dad. I’m 6’4, so I get the struggle. Thankfully I have a broken brain and always have to have the best trim/version of a given model, so it tends to come with the territory that it has good seats. Also always look for comfort seats over performance seats. Why does a family wagon come with carbon buckets just because it has 600hp, anyway?
I have noticed that perceived quality of Touareg interior definitely changes with color. My ’06 was a lovely brown leather with black plastics and my ’04 is gray and gray. EWWWW.
Also, both gloveboxes rattle like a MFer
Oof, yeah, they grey interior is terrible lmoa. I recently saw another low mileage V10 for a great price. Saw the grey and just closed the tab.. I’ll trade you the teak interior for my Anthracite! haha
Yeah.. now that I think about it, there are more rattles in the egg than the pepper. The worst one I have is the rear glass. When it’s cold it creaks like nobodies business. I have a bunch of NOS trim pieces and replacements for the melty roof buttons (and a full set of VW Individual poplar wood trims!), and I’m gonna go to town with felt tape and the squeaks and rattles CD when I install it all.
My parents had a ’13, ’17, and still have a ’20 VW Passat, which means they’ve had all three versions of the NMS Passat. Easily, hands-down, the nicest of the bunch was the ’17. I was genuinely disappointed when I got to see their ’20 and noticed all the things VW removed from it. What surprised me most was that my parents, who are car-indifferent, picked up on the little cost saving measures throughout their car after some time with it. A quick test drive at the dealership and you miss these little things, but spend enough time with the car and these downgrades become obvious.
Modern VW in the US is in a sad, shambled state. 🙁
David, can you swap the armrest cover over between the two i3s? Because if you can, you should. That would drive me crazy. Sure, it’s not quite the same leather, but it’s close. That, or you swap the interior over (seat covers, etc) and get the best of both.
Also, I really appreciate how in the comparison with the seat nets, it pictures your hand impotently reaching for a non-existent net, which really underscores the disappointment!
I could swap the doorcards and center armrest, but the seats are different.
I could swap the seats…
But it’s not worth my time. I’ll deal with the white armrests. I do like that I have improved headlights (with cornering lights!) and the backup camera seems clearer, and the Apple Carplay is nice, and the wireless charger is actually total trash but let’s move on.
The build quality seems worse. I’ll show that soon.
One I can think of is the P2 Volvo cars (2001-2007). The 01-04 had beautiful and long-lasting glass headlight housings, the 05-07 have plastic housings. I can always immediately tell an early car because it will have clear headlights, while the later cars have horribly fogged headlights.
The later cars are still more desirable, they got other worthwhile upgrades, such as a transmission that is much less likely to grenade.
I’ve worked in the automotive supplier industry for about 25 years. Just got out a little over a year ago. I worked in engineering management as the launch manger for a lot of vehicles (GM, Chrysler, Ford, Honda, Toyota, Nissan). Here’s a couple of things I’ve seen from my little corner of the automotive manufacturing universe. Keep in mind that I mostly worked in interiors. I don’t have much experience with welding or bodies. I have a bit with engines (first generation 7.3L Powerstroke).
OEM’s will hold all changes steady for 90 days to ensure they don’t upset the learning curve on their assembly lines. Once that period is over it’s a full on push to cost cut and de-content as much as they think the customer can stand. Suppliers generally have a 10% year over year give back to the OEM’s. The prices the OEM pays reduces by 10% or so EVERY YEAR. The supplier can offset that by introducing cost cutting measures to the OEM. The cost cuts that make it into production are subtracted from the give back for that year. The OEM’s also send teams into the suppliers plant to find cost cutting measures associated with the supplier’s processes. If the supplier can’t show that they were already planning to implement a similar change, the OEM gets to keep 100% of the proceeds of that change.
I noticed how Chrysler went cheap with the 2023 Chrysler Pacifica PHEV compared to my 2022, the interior materials feel different, the taillights don’t light up completely the same way as mine, some features that were standard, completely gone. The carpet is thinner too.
And they keep raising the price of it, bastards. All of them are plagued with the same transmission issue.
The other consideration is the last year of certain variations within a product line also produce challenges.
1964 F100 was the last year of the frame and engine, but not the body work.
1992 F350 December build. Some stuff is 1991 and some is 1992.
1967 VW Type III squareback. Last year of carbureted engine, first year of 12v and reverse lights.
First year VW Rabbit was a huge pile of garbage, period.
As the former owner of both a 2007 JK Rubicon and a 2013 JK Rubicon, this is good advice. I loved the Jeeps, but not the reliability issues – especially the 2007.
I have also owned several last-year vehicles and have also found them to be the better option, despite some of the cost-cutting.
“Notice how they were leather before, and now they’re white leatherette”
But is it WARM leatherette?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S5QErPDNcj4
Bought a first year “new gen” compass (2018). Took delivery in late 2017.
From day one the thing used oil like nothing I’ve ever seen. Most I ever measured was 2 quarts over 1,000 miles. Insane. Also I thought the oil filter was in a ridiculous location, right next to where the exhaust manifold bolts up to the exhaust.
Ended up having the block replaced under warranty (though it took until 2019 for that to happen).
Upon doing the first oil change on the replacement I noticed it was significantly harder to get the oil filter off due to a heat shield that was wrapped around it. A heat shield that didn’t exist on the original engine.
My theory is that the original motor, without the shield, was cooking it’s own oil in the filter.
So yeah, no more first year models.
That could also just be because it’s a jeep compass
I think sometimes automakers get locked into a price point on a particular model, and they have to de-content to stay there. I had ’07 and ’10 Honda Pilots–technically different generations, but very, very similar mechanicals. The ’07 interior was so much nicer, with soft-touch materials all around vs. the sea of hard plastics in the ’10. I had tracked prices on them, and they barely budged between the two generations. I could see how they did it.
What part of the Alfa Romeo life cycle should I buy?
Only the lord knows.
The end stage, when it has already been to the crusher and is being sold as a metal block.
He drives a Lancia so I’m not sure I trust his advice. “Jesus, take the wheel” was literally about a guy selling him a Fulvia.
Before Fiat bought them. Actually, before they started using Soviet steel. In fact, before the cold war just to be safe. Maybe walk that back to the founding of the Soviet Union. let’s clear out the 12 1/2 years leading up to that just for safe measure. Final answer: Buy an Alfa Romeo made before June 24, 1910.