Spring is coming, which means it’ll soon be time to enjoy warm weather activities again. If you haven’t gotten a motorcycle yet, now is a great time to get into this hobby. Today’s motorcycles offer up attractive design, good reliability, and loads of fun. The best part? You don’t have to spend a million bucks to enjoy yourself. Here are my picks for the coolest cheap bikes to look at this spring.
One of the best changes to happen to the motorcycle market in recent times is the rise of the low-displacement motorcycle. Small bore bikes are the most accessible pathways into motorcycling. These motorcycles aren’t souped up with sports car-killing power and usually don’t require a ton of skill to safely operate. At the same time, a good small-bore bike is also great for an experienced rider. Use it to get to work, use it on the farm, or take it down country roads. You’ll get great fuel economy and you can bang through every gear without having to constantly check your six for the constable.


If you’re looking for an affordable ride, CFMoto, Royal Enfield, and Honda each have lines of amazingly cheap bikes. Triumph even joined in on the small and cheap revolution with its new 400s. But what’s the cheapest? If you’re a cheapskate like me, you might be looking at the very bottom of the market. As it turns out, you can still get some really cool bikes even if you’re scraping the bottom of the barrel.

I decided to find the cheapest motorcycle in five categories: The absolute cheapest, the cheapest sportbike, the cheapest cruiser, the cheapest off-road bike, and then the cheapest long-distance bike. Now, you can buy outrageously cheap motorcycles from no-name Chinese brands from Amazon or Temu. I’m excluding those bikes because in my experience, those things are just a huge headache and you’ll spend more time wrenching than riding.
Let’s see how the market has changed!
Honda XR150L – $3,099 – Cheapest Off-Road

One of the best deals in motorcycling right now is the Honda XR150L. For years, riders have begged for a cheap dual-sport that anyone can enjoy, anyone can fix, and nearly anyone can afford. That bike is the XR150L. I featured this bike in 2023 as my pick for a crazy cheap off-road bike and it remains my pick today.
The XR150L originally launched in 2014 with sales in Asia, Australia, and New Zealand. Those in Asia use the XR150L as a commuter bike while those in Australia and New Zealand use them as farm bikes. There’s something pretty magical about a good farm bike. They’ll take a serious beating and keep on taking licks. They don’t care if you crash them through brush or ride them through a pasture, they’ll keep on working. Then, if they break, you can patch them up with a screwdriver and bubble gum then keep on riding.
The American version of the XR150L isn’t much different than the international version. It features an 149cc air-cooled single breathing through a carburetor and making 12.5 horses. That’s not a ton of power, but at least it’s moving just 282 pounds. It also has a 32.8-inch seat height. How simple is this machine? It has a drum brake in the back. Not even the Royal Enfield is that cheap. You also don’t get ABS, traction control, or a display. It’s about as simple as a motorcycle gets.

Motorcycle.com said it was a bike you could spend all day on without getting too tired. According to Honda, the XR150L is ideal for two different riders. The first is the beginner. This is because the XR150L is easy to maneuver, forgiving of mistakes, and is a great tool to teach yourself how to wrench. Honda also says the XR150L would be great for an older rider who wants to own something that reminds them of their first motorcycle.
The XR150L is so cheap that the only way you’re going cheaper would be to buy a no-name drop-shipped bike from China or to get one of those kids’ dirt bikes.
Royal Enfield Meteor 350 – $4,699 – Cheapest Cruiser

In 2023, the cheapest cruiser for sale in America was the Yamaha V Star 250 at a price of $4,699. The price of the V Star has increased by $100 in 2025. The Honda Rebel 300 also increased by $100 to reach $4,849. That makes the Royal Enfield Meteor 350 the cheapest cruiser you can buy from a known brand. This is a bike with a famous name in Royal Enfield history, but it’s nothing like its 1950s namesake.
The modern Meteor 350 launched in 2020 after four years of development. It features Royal Enfield’s current 349cc single-cylinder engine, which benefits from modern engineering and fuel injection. It’s the same engine that powers my Royal Enfield Classic 350 and I love the little guy. The engine makes a decent noise for single and while its 20.2 HP doesn’t sound like much, that’s just enough to scoot most riders past 70 mph. Weight is on the heavy side at 421 pounds and seat height stands at 30.12 inches, which just a little tall for a small cruiser.

Reviews for the Meteor 350 have been largely positive, with publications dinging the bike for its shorter maintenance intervals but praising the bike for its diabolically cheap replacement parts. In other words, the Meteor 350 will teach you how to do your oil changes but it also won’t break your bank account if you dropped it.
I’ve taken one of these on a short ride before and to me, they feel similar to my Classic 350, but with a little bit more of a relaxed riding style, which is what you’d expect from a cruiser. If you’ve never ridden a new Royal Enfield, I’ll give you what you need to know. These motorcycles blend the best of the old with the best of what’s new. They have plushy seats, will happily lean over into turns, and have no problem coming to a stop in a hurry. However, just look at any part of the bike while you’re riding and you’ll almost forget you’re riding something from the 2020s. Car enthusiasts like to say that cars like the Mazda Miata are “slow car fast.” These Royal Enfields put that same idea into motorcycles. You have to beat the piss out of them to get anywhere fast, but the bikes are just as happy to do it as you are.
I would go with the Royal Enfield if you’re looking for more of a “pure” riding experience. The most technologically advanced thing about the Meteor 350 is its dual-channel ABS and Bosch fuel injection. Aside from that you really do feel like you’re riding something from about 1955. If you want more tech, better reliability, and more speed, spending a little more on the Honda Rebel 300 might be worth it for you. However, depending on where you live you might find dealer markup on the Honda.

If you aren’t married to the cruiser concept, the Royal Enfield Hunter 350 (above) is also a good choice at $3,999. This bike will ride similarly to RE’s other 350s, but has more of a standard riding position than a cruiser position.
CFMoto 300NK – $4,199 – Cheapest Naked
Chinese brand CFMoto has been hard at work rebuilding its image. The company came to America in the 2000s with frankly abhorrent clones of Honda scooters and even more disgusting scooters pretending to be motorcycles. The quality was awful, parts availability was a joke, and longevity was so poor that these bikes made RVs from Indiana blush.

Times have changed. In the years since, the brand has gotten serious about not only building its own motorcycles and upping quality, but carving out its own identity. CFMoto’s bikes are now competitive on performance and are mostly there on quality, too. However, the price is still rock-bottom, which is why the CFMoto 300NK makes a return this year as my choice for the cheapest naked bike.
How cheap is the CFMoto 300NK? While Japanese brands have raised their prices over the past two years, CFMoto has not. The 300NK is so cheap that even after a 10 percent tariff, it would still be the cheapest naked on the market. The nearest Honda, the CB300R, is $5,149 before freight and fees. The Honda CBR300R comes closer at $4,899, but that’s a fully faired sportbike.

That cheapness apparently didn’t hurt the ride as the riders of Cycle World said “CFMOTO hit the nail on the head with its 300NK, offering a quality motorcycle for an affordable price.”
Power comes from a 292cc single making 29 HP and is fueled with Bosch EFI. It weighs in at 333 pounds, has a slipper clutch, a 31.2-inch seat height, a trellis frame, dual-channel ABS, a color display, and LED lighting. Cycle World commented that the handling is predictable, the steering is direct, and the ride is sporty.
In my experience with current CFMoto products, the quality seems to be about 90 percent to 95 percent there. For example, some of the plastics feel a little cheaper than you’d expect. But I think many riders would be okay trading a touch of quality for a much cheaper price.
Kawasaki KLR 650 – $6,899 – Cheapest “Long-Distance”

Choosing the cheapest motorcycle for this category was difficult. In the past, the kind of motorcycle you would ride long distances would usually be a heavy cruiser or a touring bike. Most of these bikes are big, heavy, and luxurious. After all, you want to be comfortable on a long ride.
Nowadays touring is very different for many riders. Lots of riders are now touring on adventure bikes, which combine traits of both the dual-sport and the touring categories. Of course, the classic touring style is still alive with just about any of Harley-Davidson’s big cruisers or the mighty Honda Gold Wing.
But what if you want to ride a long distance without paying a ton of cash? This one is hard. People have ridden low-displacement motorcycles across America without issue. Technically, any motorcycle is a touring motorcycle if you try hard enough. For my pick for the cheapest “long-distance” bike, I’m going to avoid small bikes, but I also don’t just want to choose one that’s crazy expensive. I’m picking two.

The Kawasaki KLR650 has long been considered to be the “Swiss Army Knife” of motorcycles. It’s never been the best at any one thing, but for decades riders have found it to be one bike that does many things pretty well. Some people believe that if they must have just one bike to do it all, a KLR650 is the choice.
The KLR650 launched in 1987 as a different take on the dual-sport formula of the time. Kawasaki’s motorcycle had a bigger gas tank and more bodywork than the competition, plus a small windshield. It was still marketed as a dual-sport, but it very much looked like an ancestor to today’s adventure bikes. The KLR650 turned out to be a hit and Kawasaki kept it in production until 2007 while giving it only minor updates along the way.

Kawasaki added more street-friendly bodywork and features in 2008. Yet, the engine remained largely the same stone axe it had been since the ’80s. It still even drank from a carburetor until the model was canceled in 2018. Kawasaki came back swinging in 2022 with a new KLR650. The biggest headlining changes were fuel injection, a longer wheelbase, a more comfortable rider triangle, and increased rigidity.
Other small changes included an LED headlight, a monochrome display, and a larger fuel tank. Otherwise, Kawasaki has tried to keep the KLR650 as simple as it can. Power comes from a 652cc single making 41 HP. Your throne sits 34.3 inches high and your adventure has a starting weight of around 450 pounds before you add anything. You get it for the starting price of $6,899. If you want to, you can add ABS, auxiliary lights, and cases, but that’ll cost you more.
The Kawasaki KLR650 makes less power than more expensive bikes in this adventure bike range. You will not be winning any races and the technology will not wow you. The whole point about the KLR650 is that it’s supposed to go just about anywhere and do it forever and ever. Reviews appear to be generally positive with the KLR650 and it seems most people will end up modifying their to their exacting tastes, anyway.
CFMoto Ibex 450 – $6,499 – Runner-Up

For the other option, I’ve chosen the CFMoto Ibex 450. This one is interesting. It has a modern 449cc fuel-injected twin-cylinder engine making 44 HP. It weighs around 400 pounds. It has switchable ABS, a color display, and Bluetooth connectivity stock. It also has USB ports, KYB suspension, and J.Juan brakes. This bike costs $6,499, or $400 cheaper than the KLR, but you get a lot more kit.
How does it ride? Cycle World said the Ibex is “a fun and capable motorcycle—period—with the ability to make adventure riding more accessible to more people.” However, the publication dinged the Ibex 450 for its unrefined suspension and riding position that was tight for a tall rider. It’s noted that the bike is some suspension tweaks away from having that first bit fixed. If you’re a shorter rider, you might like the 32.3-inch seat height compared to the KLR650. That said, I favor the Kawasaki more due to its decades of proven reliability.
Honda Navi – $1,999 – Absolute Cheapest

Once again, the king of cheap remains the little Honda Navi. Honda created a sensation when it launched this bike in America in 2022 and people still love it now. Sadly, the sweet $1,807 price has ballooned to $1,999, but it’s still the cheapest thing with two wheels that you can buy from a reputable brand.
The Navi was developed in India and its name is an acronym for “New Additional Value for India.” It’s powered by a 109.2cc air-cooled single-cylinder scooter engine making 7.83 horsepower. That drives the rear wheel of the 235.9-pound motorcycle through a CVT.

This isn’t like a Grom where you’ll be popping wheelies, stoppies, and other stunts. The Navi is really largely a scooter dressed up like a motorcycle. Also don’t expect to go very fast. A stock Navi might hit 55 mph with a featherweight rider in a tailwind. The Navi is perhaps the easiest motorcycle in the world to ride. It has a 30-inch seat height and the riding dynamics of a scooter. You can lay it down, pick it back up, brush it off, give it a hug, and then get back on the road again. The Navi is designed to be what’s more or less the ultimate urban bike or the best beginner bike.
It’s not going to go anywhere near a highway and you aren’t riding it far. Instead, the Navi is the perfect little bike to keep in the bed of your pickup truck to use around a track or a campground. Or, park it outside of your apartment in the city and zip around sipping only the smallest morsels of fuel.

Of course, this is not an exhaustive list of the cheapest new motorcycles that you can buy. Royal Enfield’s entire lineup is full of affordable bikes and Honda has eight motorcycle models under $5,000 plus another four scooters that are also under $5,000. CFMoto is another brand full of cheap rides. The CFMoto Papio SS above cost me just $4,500 out the door!
If you have an itch to buy a new, but affordable motorcycle, it’s hard to go wrong with any of the motorcycles on sale today. So many companies are punching out one great machine after the next and riders are really spoiled for choice. It’s also awesome that you can get so many motorcycles for such inexpensive price points.
So, if you’ve been wanting to get into motorcycling, I recommend getting out there, picking up a cheap bike, and having some fun. I recommend buying a used bike over a new one, but if you must buy new, I think you’ll find something you’ll like. If you need training, I highly recommend taking a Motorcycle Safety Foundation MSF Basic RiderCourse. This course will teach you the basics of riding and the instructors will give you some extremely helpful habits that can even save your life behind the wheel of a car. Depending on where you live, the instruction may be as cheap as free. Go to MSF’s site to learn more.

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Just picked up a leftover ’24 Triumph Speed 400, first bike since I sold my Ducati Scrambler in ’18. Absolutely loving it, amazing what fun a light weight and only 40hp bike can be. It is making the work commute a joy. Add in that it looks damn good and I see no reason for anything bigger/badder/faster.
I took a look at the CF Papio SS and it’s probably fun with the 124cc engine but if they scaled the whole package up with a 300cc to 400cc (or even larger displacement) engine in it I would be gobsmacked and running to throw money at them.
It reminds me of the Laverda 1000 Endurance Racer and a hint of the Moto Guzzi Daytona.
It’s wild to me how cheap some of these motorcycles are, especially coming from a mountain bike background. A decent MTB is $3-5k and a decent E-MTB is $5-7K. I’m regularly starting to see top spec E-MTB’s going for over $10k!
This may help getting your head around it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BS9ugdl1FZc
In 2022 I found myself in need (want)of a Swiss Army knife of a bike, go to the grocery store or knock off a thousand mile round trip, maybe a bit of cottage country road, but no single track or yumps. Things were pretty well defined regarding my expectations with over half a century of riding. Anyway my choice was a Kawasaki Versys 650 LT and I’m still happy. That’s the beauty of the market these days there is a ton of choice out there and quality is better than ever. I found myself shaking my head with Mercedes’ choices, but that is the beauty of things.
Anyway 2 wheels represents the best “Oh My Gosh” fun for the buck, just be honest with yourself with what you are looking for. DO YOUR RESEARCH.
Wear decent gear and get trained.
“just be honest with yourself with what you are looking for. DO YOUR RESEARCH.
Wear decent gear and get trained”
And for your own (and everyone around you) benefit… Ride within your abilities…At least on public roads when others are around
If you have the cash, I would recommend one of Honda’s “mini motos” over the Navi.
Yes, it’s cheap but it will never let you forget how cheap it is. Turning that Tonka plastic choke alone!
A CT125 with crash bars installed will have much more durability and longevity.
The problem with the CT125 is that you are paying almost double the price of the Navi. $4,099 + $300 destination vs $1,999 + $300 for the Navi. While the CT125 is no doubt a better built bike it is still strictly a city runabout equivalent to a small scooter. (Which I would argue a scooter is a better tool for the job)
I see the value buy among the small Honda’s as the XR150L by far. $3,399 with destination and you get 50% more hp than the minis. 12.5 hp doesn’t sound like much but those extra 4 hp vs the CT125 turns it into a real multi purpose bike that is legal to ride on a highway but more importantly can keep up with traffic on roads with 55 mph speed limits. Moving the top speed from 55 mph to 70 mph is a big deal, even on roads will lower speeds as you are not max out all the time and have a bit of reserve.
I see your point but it all depends on the rider. A dual-sport with a standard shifter and a 32.8 seat height might be more bike than a Navi shopper is looking for. Maybe a Metropolitan or an ADV 160 then.
I am completely gobsmacked (in a good way) by the low prices on these bikes! Nowadays I half-expect everything new to start at $10K and increase from there.
Fun fact: in the mid-late 1980s, $4000 would get you a Yamaha Radian (standard street bike with an air-cooled 600cc inline-four) or a Harley 883 Sportster.
Gosh, my 1989 Radian cost me $2500 new. Great bike 56 hp, top speed of 125. But that seat was torture after 30 minutes. Felt like it was made of broken glass. Upgraded to 1993 GoldWing 4 years later.
My best friend bought a used Radian in high school and still has it. Has crossed Wisconsin many times! A touring bike it is not but it has been very reliable with more than enough power.
$4,000 in 1985 = $12,000 in 2025 An entry level Harley is $10,499 (Nightster)
Real median household income in 1985 $60,050 (in 2023 dollars)
Real median household income in 2023 $80,610
Inflation adjusted household income is up by 33% over the last 40 years so the average household has more buying power today vs the 80’s.
(Of course there are some households that haven’t seen their income increase or even match inflation but the average family is making more today in real dollars)
I have a grom clone, it is a giant turd, and I absolutely love beating the piss out of it. You can go cheaper than the navi, I just wouldn’t recommend it.
I don’t ride motorcycles but when I briefly considered buying one a while back when I was living in a small mountain town with a lot of great riding roads I was looking at old hondas and what struck me was even a ’70s CB360 had a quarter mile time under 15 seconds-faster than any car I’d owned at the time. I think this is plenty fast for most riders, certainly if you’re just getting into it.
That Royal Enfield hunter is really tempting but living in a big city with a lot of bad weather (Seattle) and terrible drivers combined with my own mistrust of my adhd hampered ability to stay focused while riding keeps me from exploring motorcycling more 🙁
I’ve heard many people mention worrying about focus loss and that definitely is a thing. However for me it is like an immersive game, it is your attention, it is your reality it is everything. If you treat it like a van with the tunes cranked up and some do ride that way, you might get in trouble, I know I would. Take a riding course and maybe rent a bike for a week or two. That will sure tell you and give you one less limitation to wonder about. (-:
Interesting points, I just get nervous because even riding my bike around where I tend to be pretty hyper focused I will randomly have the ADHD kick in and I’ll get distracted for a second which at 5-15 mph on a bike is often nbd but on a motorcycle that’s got a far higher risk? And don’t get me wrong the one time I rode a friend’s motorcycle I instantly got the appeal-the idea of taking the course anyways and renting one is a definitely a thought.
You know you and everybody is different.
It is a random theory of mine that a high proportion of ADHC folks are drawn to motorsports, it may seem counter intuitive, but maybe its not with the environment.
I wish you luck finding out how things are for you, it will be somewhat expensive, but it is probably a worthwhile investment
For those w/ADHD… I would expect the higher physical stimulation of riding would be very conducive and you would more naturally find it easier to focus
I used to ride my Honda Helix scooter down the interstate around Raleigh going 70. (Helix was 250 single, 18 hp) Drivers gave me more room than they did on my GoldWing. It’s kinda fun being able to touch the trailer of a semi going down the highway.
My first bike was a Suzuki GS 550 back in 1980. So, wow, ~45 years ago. I had a variety of bigger bikes up to a Goldwing 1800 in the following years.
I don’t (AFAIK) have ADHD, but riding a mc made me hyperaware of small cues out of my peripheral vision. The twitch of a shoulder or the slight turn of a head clued me in that someone was going to merge into my lane without seeing me.
I’ve had a variety of motorcycles since then and the only crash I’ve had was on a sunny morning after a wintry stretch (also Seattle area, VictoriousSandwich) and hit a patch of sand and the front wheel washed out and down I went. Broke two ribs and spent a couple of months bracing myself for any sneeze or cough I felt coming on.
I now put around town on a Honda ADV 160 scooter. I had thought about the XR150L, but the underseat storage of the scooter and stealth level sidewalk parking tipped me towards the scooter. I’ve gone 65 mph (indicated, at least) on a four-lane road between me and friends and it was stable and didn’t seem to be strained.
That’s all I need or want on a nice day. I have a nice car for longer trips or when the riding weather isn’t pleasant.
I have a disassembled GS850 in the garage. I really should put it back together. My accident was on my GoldWing. Driver turned left in front of me. Said she didn’t see me. (didn’t have a license or car insurance). My advice is to buy a full face helmet and a very good leather or armored jacket and good gloves. The two times I was hit I ended up face first down the road. 42 years ago I did a header off a bicycle and landed on my face. I’m still having problems because of that wreck. Now I wear full face helmet even if I’m riding my electric scooter (like Lime scooter)
See this is my concern-if anything more drivers have their heads up butt than ever as near as I can tell and it already felt like I was running the gauntlet when I was bike commuting. Seems like on a motorcycle it’s the same thing but the consequences are much higher due to the speeds involved?
True. But to ride a motorcycle you have to be hyper aware of what’s going on around you. You can’t be daydreaming or thinking about work, like you do in a car.Defensive driving. I don’t ride when I’m tired or not truely focused on my surroundings. If I think someone is going to pull out in front of me or merge into my lane, I lay on the horn. I get a lot of fingers, but I know that they now see me. Oh, and on multi lane roads, if I am passing someone, I ride down the right side so when they glance into their outside mirror to change lanes they get an eyeful of me right beside them. If they weren’t paying attention while driving, they’ll jerk the car to the right. You really have to ride like you’re invisible. Wear stuff that makes you stand out. And assume every ride that you’re going to be hit and dress accordingly. If I knew I was going to be hit today I wouldn’t ride. But we don’t have ESP. Anyway that’s what I’ve learned from riding for 50 years.(I guess I’m not as young as I feel)
A GS850 was my second bike!
I’ve always had full-face helmets. I have an armored, hi-viz yellow coat for when it’s not super hot and a hi-viz windbreaker for when it is.
Yes, the speed on a motorcycle or scooter is higher than on a bicycle, but I personally feel safer going with the flow of traffic rather than being constantly overtaken. I don’t know if there are statistics or studies that validate that thinking, but that’s my preference.
There are hi-viz mesh jackets that you can buy. Mine was custom ordered out of Carlsbad. Made of kelvar with a zip in rain liner and body armor. If you slide wearing a windbreaker only, it will melt into your hide. I ride with it year round. Cold days I ride with Gerbing heated jacket underneath. I think it’s safer to ride a little faster or slower than the surrounding traffic. Then they don’t forget that I’m there. And DON’T tailgate. Try to keep that buffer around you. It gives you time for evasive action should you need it. (my total riding mileage is around a half million miles)
Oof, yeah I had a coworker who gunned it around a bus that was loading passengers in the winter and either frost or just cold pavement/tires the rear wheel washed out and he went over. Though fortunately for him no broken bones just lot of scrapes and bruises.
‘I don’t (AFAIK) have ADHD, but riding a mc made me hyperaware of small cues out of my peripheral vision. The twitch of a shoulder or the slight turn of a head clued me in that someone was going to merge into my lane without seeing me.’
Totally agree with this. I was raised on motorcycles and I sharply remember my driving school instructor saying to me out of the blue “You’ve rode bikes haven’t you?” When he saw my confused look while I nodded yes he explained that bike riders just notice more things and are generally safer because of it than other folks.
Mercedes, your motorcycle articles (especially the ones on cheap/beginner motorcycles) are manna from heaven. I finally got my basic permit and once Dayton’s weather de-Hothifies I’ll be looking into MSF courses. Retro standards like your RE Classic 350 are my jam. My intrusive thoughts damn near pulled the trigger on a gorgeous Moto Guzzi V7 Classic this past fall but my non-dumbass side prevailed.
That said though, I have some questions for you or the knowledgeable Cycletopians out there.
The best recommendation for beginner gear is to never skimp on gear. Newer riders are more likely to make mistakes and it can be a matter of life and death.
That said, the Regent X is a solid choice for a helmet.
For boots, I would recommend the Forma Legacy.
Alpinestar for the jacket and gloves. Be sure to get a back insert.
“The best recommendation for beginner gear is to never skimp on gear.”
Absolutely. The main reason it’s taking me so long to get a motorcycle is because I’m saving up for the gear before I get the bike. I had my 20s for being an idiot hoon (in my RX8 lol) and I’m over it. I’m looking at bombing down 55mph back roads, not track days.
And thank you for the recommendations. I’ll absolutely check them all out.
FortNine has a whole series of videos about beginner gear: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQlYdWX-PfbnFOO0bqYPQ6Cf4d11qHTpT
Dunno where you live Zeppelopod, but if you can get to a store to actually try helmets and jackets on, I’d strongly recommend it. Though it took an hour or two each way (depending on traffic) I went out to the Revzilla store in Newport Beach and tried on at least half a dozen helmets. I wound up buying one of their store brand ones: a Sedici Strada II which was about $225. IIRC. I bought it in plain white which didn’t have a DOT/ECE sticker on it for some reason, but the exact same helmet in a color/pattern DID have the DOT rating on it, so I felt OK about it.
Same principle as “the red ones go faster” perhaps?
But seriously, great advice. I’m in the Dayton area so I’ve been to various Cycle World shops (which is where I tried on the Arai and found it fit me perfectly) but I haven’t found a jacket that feels good yet. At some point I’ll get off my butt and make a pilgrimage out to one of the larger motorcycling shops in the Columbus or Cincy area.
Jacketwise, I did try on a bunch at the Revzilla store, but wound up buying an Icon jacket (maybe the Airfly model… I can’t recall and it’s in the garage right now with my bike) after watching like every single Fortnine video that touched on the subject. Per Ryan’s instructions, I actually bought the original version of this jacket (it was revised a couple years ago and he was adamant that every single change they made was for the worse) and I found an unused first-gen one on eBay for maybe $150 or so. It’s a little big on me (which isn’t ideal for a moto jacket, because you want the armor to stay where it’s supposed to if you hit the ground) but I like it so much that I’ll keep it even if I never get another bike.
I did try to find the video with his recommendation, but gave up after a few minutes, and of course I’m far too lazy right now to put on real shoes and trudge out to the garage to look at the actual jacket. Sorry… I’m really beat up physically these days, so it’s easier for me to rationalize giving up on things (which is why I’ll probably never do a project car, among other things).
I’ve never been to a Cycle World shop… not sure if we have any here/near in LA. Google seems to think the only store by that name is a bike (bicycle) shop. I do love the way motorcycle shops smell (not that anyone asked). 🙂
Unfortunately, dealer fees really kill these cheaper-smaller bikes. Example:local dealer has a bunch of leftover KLX 230S bikes on the showroom floor, for $2999.
But between freight charges, assembly fees, first service, paperwork and all sorts of other BS charges, they wanted nearly $5k out-the-door.
In a state with no sales tax.
Very misleading, and it completely kills the small bike market. No wonder these won’t sell well.
It’s one thing to pay $2k extra on a $15k bike, but the same fees on sub-$5k bikes are just ridiculous.
Agree. In the desert southwest, one dealership brand has (pretty much) a lock on Honda Powersports vehicles. A Navi is over $4k out the door.
I’d add the Honda rebel series. They got a 300 cc thumper, 500 and 1100 parallel twins and all can be optioned with ABS. The 1100 has an optional dct as well and you’re still only at 11k spent
The issue I have, being over 6′ tall, that nearly every single entry level motorcycle besides dual-sports are physically small. Leaving me to look like I’m completely out of scale when I sit on it (and not in the fun “Honda Grom” kind of way) if I even fit at all.
The Kawasaki KLR650 & Suzuki DRZ400 (not shown above) are both no-brainer choices to consider for “everyday” bikes that are truly full-sized, able to maintain highway speeds, cheap to fix, been around since the dinosaurs, from one of the major-4 Japanese brands, and appeals to both new/old riders.
“The most technologically advanced thing about the Meteor 350 is its dual-channel ABS and Bosch fuel injection. Aside from that you really do feel like you’re riding something from about 1955.”
So will it have a soul like a Vincent Black Lightning, 1952?
Maybe not the best location for this rant but the new trail 125 needs the high low range transmission of the old Honda Trail bikes.
Gear indicator would be nice as well.
This is the sort of article I love to see, but also need to avoid. I don’t need a motorcycle; I already have too many expensive hobbies and keep finding more.
But I am so tempted by the entire Royal Enfield lineup, the KLR, and the XR.
DO NOT go down the youtube rabbit hole of XR150L videos or you will be driving to the dealership.
I absolutely need to avoid that. I get sucked in way too easily. After one tandem skydive, I got onto the videos, subreddits, etc. and got more and more certain it was the expensive hobby for me. I almost got into paramotoring by getting sucked into that stuff, too. I’d absolutely think I need to get back into dirt bikes if I watched those videos.
Drew, we are the same person except I allowed myself to get sucked in! I have been riding cheap bikes for 20 years, have soloed a paramotor and am a certified skydiver. I don’t paramotor or skydive much anymore, but motorbikes are still a full-time thing. I have a Hunter 350 new last year. 0% financing costs about $100 a month. $75 for insurance/ year. Drew… the road is calling you.
Oh, no…that’s pretty tempting. I’m going to be down this rabbit hole very soon, I’m afraid.
Thanks for the tip, though, I hadn’t even thought about financing a bike at that price point!
When I was in college in the late 1980’s, the rule was that for just about any old motorcycle “a dollar a CC.” How times have changed…
…and then you die in a horrific messy crash because the drivers of gigantavehicles are too busy browsing TikTok while sipping their Starbucks to pay attention to what’s going on around them. They’re definitely not going to notice a wee little bike on the road. Bikes and riders can be the safest people on earth, and it doesn’t matter.
(My father is a first responder. He’s been first on site to many motorcycle accidents, and even described what he saw in a few. He was a big motorcycle guy in his youth, but changed his tune when he joined the FD. He was very clear to me when I was younger: you will never buy a motorcycle, and here’s why <queue 20 years of descriptions of accident scenes>. It worked.)
Heck, I don’t even ride my human-powered bike on the road anymore. I’ve been hit twice. Trails and protected bike lanes only now!
I understand this line of thinking, but I’m also of the mind that there is a point when you have to just live your life. You can also be taken out in a modern car by a moron in an SUV. I just don’t think you’ll ever be happy when you let the potential behavior of stupid people rule your decision-making.
There are days where I feel like I’m living super dangerously when hitting the highway in my Miata… couldn’t imagine what it would be like in something smaller.
It is an inherently risky activity. But there are ways to mitigate that risk.
You could just ride off-road trails, farm roads, fire roads, or low traffic rural roads.
There is also no need to ride fast, at least I enjoy riding slowly and taking in nature.
And you can always wear good gear to improve your chances.
I probably look ridiculous, but I always wear a hi-vis vest and use high beam when I need to venture on roads with more traffic.
I had a 1974 Honda CB200 when I was single, but now that I have a partner and children it’s a hard pass. It’s just not worth it.
2022 KLR 650 ABS was an excellent purchase for me – roughly 10k miles on it now. It’s truly a go anywhere do anything bike, commuting, G500 events, trips etc. Gets 48 mpg without side cases, about 45 mpg with them. Tough as nails, no work done other than a preventative recall for a fuel pump that was working perfectly fine.
I can spend my time riding instead of fixing a stream of crap bikes like I have done for the last 15 years.
Also, the safest bike I’ve ever had- the excellent ABS system has saved me about 10 times when I’ve found the traction limit of the knobbies on road (panic stops or turning too fast). The stock Dunlop tires that come on the bike are dangerous Lego brick pieces of crap and should be replaced immediately.
The KLR is a little bit agricultural and not for people who want to go fast, but for legal driving speeds (up to about 85 mph) it’s totally fine.
New 23s and 24s can be found as low as $5,000 at the dealer for the base model. The adventure model isn’t worth it in my opinion- you can build it out better and cheaper on your own.
It’s also a bike that, often, a used version isn’t that much cheaper than a new one – meaning that it holds value if you ever decide to sell it.
There’s also a large capacity fuel tank you can get for the KLR to make it into a proper distance touring bike.
The price thing is very interesting – I ended up buying a brand new one because of the EFI and better brakes specifically but also it didn’t make sense to buy a used 2018 for 5000 when I could get a new 2022 for 6500. Around me even the most beat up 10+ year old examples are going for 2-3.5k.
The tank capacity of 6.1 gal (really 5.5 useable) is more than enough for me, the ergonomics aren’t great and after an hour or 2 I really need to get off and stretch.
It was amusing going on a mixed bike memorial ride – the sportster guys had to stop every 40-60 miles for fuel meanwhile I went all day without fuel.
It’s not always that you want to go that distance without stopping, but that you can operate where fuel available is more an issue (offroad, remote areas, etc..)
I had a DRZ, long ago and I sympathize on the need for comfort – noise, and lack of aero wear you down.
Quite true, I wasn’t really thinking of fuel access. 250 miles generally gets me where I want to go. She’s quite top-heavy even with 6 gallons of fuel, I shudder to think what 10 is like in an extended tank – even though they say they changed the design to lower the CG. I carry bottles for my buddy on his dr500 sometimes on the cargo shelf and that works pretty well.
Surprisingly for a big thumper the new gen KLR vibrates much less than I thought it would, much less than the DR500 does although I chucked the rubber isolated foot pegs pretty much immediately. The aero is pretty decent as well. The real issue is the angle/ width of the seat is wildly uncomfortable.
My first bike was an early 90s Honda XR250L, and it was a great bike. It was just powerful enough to be fun, but not enough to feel dangerous. I’m surprised they switched from rear disc to drum. Must be a cost saving thing.
The problem is, I can buy a brand new bike for less than my yearly insurance premiums.
This is why I haven’t even bothered to get a license for a bike.
How expensive is your insurance?! I haven’t had a bike in a few years, but when I did the insurance was always less than $20/month even on the Honda 919 and a Triumph T100.
Up here in Ontario, Canada, people can’t drive their thumb up their own ass, so our rates are bananas. $3k or more per year when starting out. Considering you can only ride at most 8 months of the year, yeesh.
Good gracious…yeah no I’ve got an ’06 Honda VFR800 and an ’06 Kawasaki Vulcan. Insurance is now $2,000/year for the pair. $20/month? Unbelievable.
It’s up to $1,000/bike/year on my pair of ’06 Japanese bikes and I’m starting to think it might just be time to hang up my spurs.
Great list. I am getting old and my last bike was a suzukis40 that was not enough to get my weight up to speed on the highway. I am without a motorcycle for now but may get one for just dirt trails later.
I spent my 20s and early 30s with a rotating collection of bikes ranging from 70s 2-strokes to Ducati SSs, and now, 20-odd years later, I am looking at either a Honda Trail 125 or the XR150L.
I loved the thrill of a fast bike, especially a big 2-stroke with its crazy power delivery, but I am fully aware that my age limits my senses and reaction time. I have a small convertible for longer, fun summer trips, and I also love human-powered bikes for getting around the city. But last summer, I took a short trip with an old college friend, with him on his gorgeous Lambretta and me on his daughter’s new Super Cub, and it was a blast.
Even my significant other has given me the green light despite being the primary reason I gave up two-wheeled transportation in my mid-thirties. Either they have mellowed, or they are comfortable with my life insurance policy.
Kudos to your friend with the Lammie and a daughter who rides. And I’ll just note that Accidental Death & Dismemberment policies get cheaper as you get older.
My partner is well aware, apparently!
The Lambretta is truly a work of art. He bought it as a basketcase in the mid-90s, and it was his first-ever rebuild. He did a second rebuild about 6 years ago and spent most of the time cursing his younger self for the stupid mistakes he had made.
He is a real gearhead and has had a series of cool bikes like a Cagiva Elefant, original Suzuki Katana, and an old Honda Superhawk he completely rebuilt. The Lambretta is his first and biggest love.
Wow, TIL there are full-sized bikes under $10k. Based on what little advertising (and riding) I see on a regular basis, I thought everyone in the world was either on a $20k sportbike or a $40k Harley.
There’s loads of great bikes under $10k (or real close to it). I’d wager that one of the best deals in the motorcycle world today is the Triumph Tiger Sport 660, it’s $9,695 and gets you 81hp out of it’s awesome triple, 10k service intervals, a decent 460lbs, comes with cruise control standard, and a pretty good dealer network.
I’ve never owned a KLR but I’ve ridden with a lot of KLR owners. I wonder if the updated version still requires the infamous “doohicky” fix/thingamabob… (?)
2022 KLR owner here Theoretically no but people are still doing it. I had to explain to my dealer what the doohickey was as they’ve never had to replace one. They adjusted the tension at my 6k service, about 10k now. My bike is a little cold blooded under 50°F or so and I have a thermobob kit for it but haven’t ever bothered to install it.
ya i was close to buying a klr last summer and backed out when dealer hadn’t heard of doohicky… the cam chain tensioner mechanism – which had(/has?) a propensity to stop tensioning with unfortunate adverse consequences.
well known reliability concern and they’d not heard of it, wtf?
too bad, it’s a good bike with great ergonomics.
Only dealer within a reasonable distance of me so not much choice for me. Last I knew I was their only customer to put over 5k miles on a Gen 3 KLR. Its funny you mention the ergonomics because that’s the worst thing about the bike in my opinion. The factory seat made me lose feeling in my legs in about 30 minutes. Otherwise, it’s a great bike
i defer to your judgement on the ergo cuz you’re living with it. motivation for my comment is cuz the klr just fits SO well – seat height, relation to bars and pegs, controls, all of it – seemed very natural to me.
I totally agree- it fits really well for me too (after 2” drop pegs for boot room) but after about 30 minutes on the stock seat it just became torture. With a higher aftermarket seat, I can ride fine for about 2 hrs. now at a time. Maybe it’s because of my height/ proportions (6’2” 265 lbs. 34-inch inseam) not sure. Still would buy it again, although I wouldn’t even leave the dealer on the factory tires – a set of Kenda K270s makes the bike a beast and they are only about 1/2 worn at 6000 miles.
I know the Navi is a fair bit cheaper than the Grom, but the Grom (or offerings from Kawi and such) is absolutely worth it over the Navi. They’ll hold their value much better; I’d wager that along would translate to roughly equal expenses when you are done. Everything else about the Grom is just better too, and it has huge after market support.
I also prefer the Grom or Grom-like bikes. It’s faster, it has tons more modding capability, you can do stunts on it, etc. 🙂
Yet, I’m surprised at how much of a following the Navi has gotten. I’m in a Navi group and it seems like most of the people buying a Navi might have bought a Honda Super Cub back in the ’60s.
And yet, there’s a Super Cub in 2025 and they still bought a Navi…
I’m not ragging on a Navi, but again, if you wanted a new Super Cub, it seems well worth the ~$1,900 (admittedly nearly double) over the Navi.
I agree. I might buy a Super Cub this year because they’re just so cool. But I get it, a lot of folks have been able to negotiate out-the-door costs that are still under $2k, so they go with the slower, worse bikes.
My biggest complaint with the Super Cub is that it doesn’t come prepped for a back seat. It’s not hard to add, but you’ve got to tap some holes for the foot pegs and I think to mount the passengers seat. Why the threads aren’t already there, and the rest are just dealer offered bolt-ons is beyond me. Outside the US, you already get all that stuff.
Personally, if I needed a minimoto, I’d go Grom. If I wanted a minimoto, I’d go Dax. Both can seat two, the Dax looks cooler (to me). In a need situation, not worth the added cost. In a want situation, definitely worth the extra cost.
Super Cub does have it perk with 17″ wheels, better wind protection, and all that. But, if I’m going for a scooter look, I want scooter practicality, so that’d be a ADV160 or PCX. Which, if I’m paying that much, I’d have a real hard look at an Xmax for the better highway capabilities.
Yes, that’s how I mentally justify looking at a $3,899 machine, and suddenly I’m seriously considering a $6,299 “competitor”.
Yes, the Navi’s biggest downside is that it still has a carburetor.
Honda should add FI to this bike and the XR150L too. They don’t work well with E10-E15 gas, especially after sitting for a few weeks.