Home » Here’s The One Technological Drawback Of Old Cars That I Cannot Stand

Here’s The One Technological Drawback Of Old Cars That I Cannot Stand

Jeep Cherokee Old Tech Ts
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I just drove my 30 year-old diesel, manual Chrysler Voyager 1,500 miles over the span of a few days, and while on the French Autoroutes, German Autobahn and British Motorway, I had plenty of time to reflect on what I love and what I loathe about this Graz, Austria-built minivan. Yesterday, while finishing the final leg of my trek back to Germany late at night, I was reminded of one thing about old cars that drives me nuts, and I bet I’m not the only one who feels this way.

Obviously, crash safety is a big deal when we’re discussing the shortcomings of old cars, but that’s not really something that’s palpable when you’re driving a car. What about ride quality? Hasn’t that come a long way lately? Sure, but also, there are plenty of cars from 50 years ago that rode like Cadillacs. For example: Cadillacs.

Vidframe Min Top
Vidframe Min Bottom

Handling? Well, I think if we’re talking about sports cars and not cruisers, I’m sure old-car handling could bother some folks. Same thing with braking performance, though plenty of cars from the 1990s could stop on a dime.

I think tech features could be a bother. Not having Bluetooth to talk with someone while driving is a bit of a bummer, and for lots of people, lack of heated seats could stand out as a major downside of driving an “oldtimer,” as they call them here in Germany.

But none of that bothers me. I’m writing this article to complaint a bit about a feature that pretty much every single one of my friends agrees is a huge drawback of old cars: the headlights.

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Seriously, get behind the wheel of a classic car, and, if it’s equipped with power discs, I bet it stops well enough. I bet the wipers work great. I bet the ride is probably fine. I bet, for a cruiser, it handles well enough. I bet the seats are comfy. I bet it could possibly be efficient enough, especially if it’s a lightweight, fuel-injected 1990s car or a diesel like my van. I bet the visibility is great thanks to slender pillars. And while, sure, if you have an old automatic, that’s a huge pain compared to modern eight-speeds and 10-speeds and the like, I bet the number one drawback that will bother you more than any other will be the poor nighttime visibility. Especially if your car is from the 1990s.

Headlights have come so far in the least 20 years, with HIDs becoming more prominent in the early 2000s, and LEDs really pushing headlight technology to where it is today. In more recent years, automakers have had more incentive to improve headlights thanks to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.

Starting in 2016, it began its headlight evaluation. Here’s The Insurance-funded Institute’s reasoning for the new testing:

About half of all fatal crashes in the U.S. occur in the dark, and more than a quarter occur on unlit roads. Headlights have an obvious role to play in preventing nighttime crashes, but not all headlights perform their job equally. Differences in bulb type, headlight technology and even something as basic as how the lights are aimed all affect the amount of useful light supplied.

Headlight technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. LED and high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps have begun to replace the traditional halogen ones. Many automakers offer curve-adaptive headlights, which respond to steering and swivel according to the direction of travel. Many also offer high-beam assist, a feature that can increase the use of high beams by automatically switching between high beams and low beams based on the presence of other vehicles.

At the same time, government regulations about headlights don’t guarantee consistency when it comes to the amount of illumination they provide in actual on-road use. This has resulted in large variation in headlight performance. Many vehicles sold today have inadequate headlights, despite the recent strides in lighting technology.

And here’s how IIHS actually conducts its evaluations, which measure light intensity when going straight or around curves:

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IIHS engineers measure the reach of a vehicle’s headlights as the vehicle travels straight and on curves. Sensors on the track measure how far from the vehicle the light extends with an intensity of at least 5 lux. A lux is a unit of illuminance, or the amount of light falling on a surface. For comparison, a full moon on a cloudless night illuminates the ground below to about 1 lux.

Both low beams and high beams are measured on five approaches,

  • Straightaway
  • Gradual left curve (800-foot radius)
  • Gradual right curve (800-foot radius)
  • Sharp left curve (500-foot radius)
  • Sharp right curve (500-foot radius)
road curves graphic

On each approach, visibility measurements are taken on the right edge of the roadway. On the curves, measurements also are taken on the left edge of the travel lane. On the straightaway, the second measurement is taken at a point corresponding to the left edge of a two-lane road. This allows the engineers to gauge the illumination on both the right and left side of a straightaway, which are typically quite different. With most headlights, there is a steep drop-off in light on the left side of a straight road in order to prevent glare to oncoming vehicles.

Glare for oncoming vehicles is also measured from low beams in each scenario. Engineers record the percentage by which it exceeds a set threshold.

Screen Shot 2024 07 17 At 2.56.06 Pm

IIHS describes its scoring methodology, stating:

IIHS engineers compare the results of the testing with a hypothetical ideal headlight system. Using a system of demerits, they apply the visibility and glare measurements to determine the rating.

In this system, the low beams are weighted more heavily than the high beams because they are used more often. The readings on the straightaway are weighted more heavily than those on the curves because crashes are more common on straight sections of road.

A vehicle with no demerits doesn’t exceed the glare threshold on any approach and provides illumination to at least 5 lux over the distances shown in the graphic [above]. Longer visibility distances are required on the straightaway compared with the curves because vehicles tend to travel at higher speeds while going straight. Similarly, greater visibility is required on gradual curves compared with sharp curves.

My van would absolutely fail this testing. Just look at these little candles:

Img 0021 Img 0022

Honestly, the late 1980s and early 1990s really represented the start of headlight crapification. The plastic lenses tended to yellow in a way that sealed-beam lights didn’t, and they’d also tended to allow water to fog up the inside of the lens. The result, as shown in the photo on the right above, was extremely poor illumination. Honestly, I had to drive on my high beams to see comfortably down the road. It also doesn’t help that a plastic tab cracked, and the light is no longer aimed properly:

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451114242 1861333331013290 1633361150409365311 N

I tried doing a comparison between my van and my dad’s 2015 BMW 320i, which comes equipped with LED projector-beam headlights. Should I have waited until nighttime? Sure, but this blog can’t wait:

Img 0030449809314 465400539527517 822935115399459523 N

As you can see, the BMW on the right of the first image above is throwing a lot more light onto that garage door, while the van? Well, it’s sending a few little splotches of orange light onto that surface.

In truth, my van’s headlights are maybe the worst ones I’ve ever used. My Jeep Cherokee XJ’s sealed-beam units weren’t much better, but my brother’s 1966 Mustang’s sealed beams were. They’re actually not too bad, but still nowhere even remotely close to as bright as my BMW i3’s headlights, which are similar to my dad’s 320i’s lights shown above.

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If only there were an easy and clean way to retrofit these machines with brighter lights that still projected the right pattern down the road. I’ve heard of some folks trying different LED retrofits with success, but it seems like results are mixed.

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FrontWillDrive
FrontWillDrive
3 months ago

I agree whole heartedly. I have plans to do a projector setup in a couple of the cars I have, fluted lenses on 4 of them make it impossible. But it’s also not a huge priority since the daily (05 Acura RL with turning projector HIDs!) is what I mainly end up driving at night, thankfully. I still need to polish them again though, it’s been about 8 months and they’re hazing up from UV exposure, it’s a constant battle.

Tall_J
Tall_J
3 months ago

I couldn’t agree more. My first car was a 96 S-10 Blazer that I got in 2003. The headlights were pitiful. Our 82 Ram 150 beater truck with sealed beams had a better pattern and out 78 Impala, even with mis-aimed headlights, threw out more light.

As a broke high schooler, I tried a lot to make them better, including infamous Ebay blue “projector” bulbs. Those lasted about 3 weeks and I swapped to Silverstars, which lasted about 3 months until the car turned into an electrical circus and I traded it in.

My 00 Grand Cherokee was a different story. They don’t compare to what I’m used to now, or modern LEDs, but compared to the Blazer I actually felt like I could drive at night without needing a spotlight.

Mark Pelto
Mark Pelto
3 months ago

I just had a similar revelation, this week. I picked up a 2004 Corolla as commuter/beater, and the headlights are atrocious. Granted, they have yellowed and fogged up, and a polish or replacement set of halogens with decent bulbs would likely suffice. Instead, I opted to spend roughly 20% of what I paid for the car, on an upgrade to projector housings with LED bulbs for the low-beams. Admittedly, I am also upgrading the stereo for Bluetooth capability, but otherwise I am enjoying this ‘old’ car experience. Only 20 years old, but a base model Corolla feels more like 30. No remote entry, not central locking, it doesn’t even have power windows. A sedan… in the new millennium? with crank windows?? Yep!

Joke #119!
Joke #119!
3 months ago

About half of all fatal crashes in the U.S. occur in the dark, and more than a quarter occur on unlit roads. 

Um, so, half are when it is not dark. And half the time on average, it is dark.
This simple fact flies over most people because it is too much math.

And, at times of the year when it more dark than light, the weather and road conditions are also worse.

So, get some better headlights.

Or, trash that piece of shit for being built without a care for the owner. And stop buying cars that were built without care for the owner/driver.

Last edited 3 months ago by Joke #119!
Dan Pritts
Dan Pritts
3 months ago
Reply to  Joke #119!

Tonight’s forecast: dark. Followed by widely scattered light in the morning. (H/t: George Carlin)

Twobox Designgineer
Twobox Designgineer
3 months ago
Reply to  Joke #119!

Poor analysis, though it’s aided by the lack of the piece of data that should be coupled with it. The fraction of miles driven in the day or night. I expect that far more miles are driven in daylight than in the dark, whether daily running around, commuting, short haul delivery, or long haul freight.

To wit, and this is me making up an estimate of the missing data in a way that is my guess at what is the case:
“Despite only 30% of all driving being done in the dark, 50% of fatal crashes occur in the dark. Compared to 70% of driven miles in daylight producing 50% of fatal crashes, the rate of fatal crashes per mile in the dark is 233% as high.”

You may want to pick that mic back up.

EXL500
EXL500
3 months ago

Came here to post same, but you did it better.

Joke #119!
Joke #119!
3 months ago

Damn. Thought I had some good thoughts. I’ll take the “L”.

Username Loading...
Username Loading...
3 months ago

The lights on my 85 pickup aren’t too bad, at least once I got them aimed correctly. Still every now and then I find myself considering getting a set of Holley Retrobrights for it. I don’t think I drive it at night enough to justify the expense though.

TheDrunkenWrench
TheDrunkenWrench
3 months ago

My ’81 RX7 actually had excellent night time visibility. Despite running 7″ rounds, the car was so low that the headlights were aimed pretty much straight out and I had better visibility than my 2018 F150 halogens.

The F150 was SO bad, that I spent $2500 on Morimoto XB replacement headlights just so I could see. (I was working nights, so a LOT of night driving).

My ’86 300SDL also has excellent headlights. The PO swapped the US headlights for the much better glass Euro lights. He also wired in a relay harness and installed 100W bulbs in the high, low, and fog lights.

On the subject of relay harnesses, these make a MASSIVE difference on light output in older vehicles.

Most older vehicles send all the electrons for the headlights THROUGH the headlight switch. This reduces flow and burns out the switches.

I wired a cheapo Amazon relay harness into my buddy’s ’87 XR4Ti. These cars have notoriously bad light output, even with the Sierra light upgrade. The harness made the output literally night & day.

This also has the added benefit of extending the life of the headlight switch, which in the XR4Ti’s case, is basically unobtanium.

The Clutch Rider
The Clutch Rider
3 months ago

That is odd. Even the old easter european cars had relays for the headlights. The headlight switch would control the relays and relays would operate the headlights. I am talking about cars designed in the 60’s that stayed in production until early 00s.

TheDrunkenWrench
TheDrunkenWrench
3 months ago

I mean, my Benz and the Merkur were both built in Germany and use the headlight switch. So it’s clearly not consistent. Unless Germany is considered western Europe? I was never clear where that line ran on the continent.

The Clutch Rider
The Clutch Rider
3 months ago

i think they the line between Eastern and Western Europe was the iron curtain, so your Benz and Merkur were definitely Western.For a Trabant or Wartburg Eastern :).

TXJeepGuy
TXJeepGuy
3 months ago

One of the better non performance mods I ever did on my XJ’s were adding piggyback wiring harnesses to the headlight harness that give the lights a full 12v direct from the battery (and just use the factory harness as a trigger to turn on. I wonder if that would work on the van?

Logan King
Logan King
3 months ago
Reply to  TXJeepGuy

I did that with my VW Cabriolet. Not only led to a dramatic increase in brightness but it stopped frying headlight switches. I later also swapped in ceramic harnesses, higher wattage bulbs and E-Code headlight buckets and it completely transformed it into something that seemed like a modern car at night.

Twobox Designgineer
Twobox Designgineer
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

Are the housings fogged? If so, polish them. From my experience, even if they’re yellowed, it makes an enormous difference in the light thrown down the road instead of diffused to the nearby side of the road.

Alex Kaiser
Alex Kaiser
3 months ago
Reply to  TXJeepGuy

I did that with my XJ as well and it helped a bit. What REALLY helped was swapping the sealed beams for a pair of Truck-Lite LED headlight units. They were NOT cheap, but totally worth it, and they don’t look as goofy as most of the other drop-in LED units.
The part that really sold me on them was that they are DOT approved, unlike all of the crazy bright Amazon LED bulbs that folks keep putting in their priuses around San Jose…

TXJeepGuy
TXJeepGuy
3 months ago
Reply to  Alex Kaiser

I never did the LEDs because I hated the look of the cheap ones, but a good set of Silverstar sealed beams plus the harness was great. I had some nice KC’s for when I really needed light as well…

Unclewolverine
Unclewolverine
3 months ago
Reply to  TXJeepGuy

Common upgrade on xjs considering the electronics are iffy to begin with. I haven’t done it to mine, but I have no complaints about visibility either.

Sid Bridge
Sid Bridge
3 months ago

I had this exact mood this morning, but not because of my headlights. (I mean, they are painfully inadequate but that’s beside the point). I’ve been daily driving my 1968 Olds for a month now while my Miata waits for a temperature sensor and we figure out why the belts squeal ever since I had it switched to R134.

Today was the first day my Olds tried to fail me. I backed it out of the driveway, shifted into first… but no first. No second. The shifter was in the 1-2 gate, but it definitely wasn’t clicking the gears. Third was there, so I limped it back into the driveway.

I had to get to work and it was first thing in the morning, so I now faced a few choices:

  1. Change out of my work clothes and try to fix the car.
  2. Work from home.
  3. Drive it with just 3rd and 4th? Bad idea unless I want a burnt clutch.
  4. Call a ride and be embarrassed.

I figured if I was going to end up working from home anyway, might as well try to fix the car. I changed into some less presentable clothing, grabbed my ramps, and limped it onto the ramps using 3rd gear. I crawled underneath and after a bit of poking around, found that the bolt holding the linkage rod for 1st and 2nd into the transmission was loose enough to turn it with my fingers. Grabbed a 9/16 wrench and tightened it, and it was good to go.

Best I could figure? Given the excessive heat we’ve had, my Muncie 4-speed was even more reluctant than usual to go into first when things got warm. I had been dealing with it the the same way most people deal with a Muncie – shift hard. I think all that shifting and jiggling loosened the linkage bolt. I was damn lucky the whole thing didn’t come out. Going to stick to finessing it into gear and hopefully will have my Miata back in a few days.

Daily driving a 60’s muscle car with no AC in 90 degree weather isn’t optimal, and every once in a while you should expected to have to crawl under it and fix something. Now I’m at work, in a cubicle, wearing business casual, with really dirty fingernails.

Parsko
Parsko
3 months ago
Reply to  Sid Bridge

Sid, you are today’s hero! Awesome tale, glad you made it!

Cheap Bastard
Cheap Bastard
3 months ago
Reply to  Sid Bridge

My armchair mechanic has a few questions.

Did you replace the compressor with an R134 one or did you keep the old R12 one? If the latter did you replace the seals and lubricant with R134 compatible versions? And of course did you run a good vacuum before refilling with Freon?

That slipping belt might be as simple as being too loose but if R134 has a higher viscosity it might put a bigger load on the pump, especially if the old R12 lubricant is still in there. If so you need to replace the lubricant ASAP. And the seals.

If the system wasn’t properly evacuated before filling there could also be ice dams forming which would hinder pumping and put more load on the belt making it slip. If the reason for the conversion was a pump failure and the rest of the system wasn’t replaced band or cleaned properly then debris from that might still be in the system causing blockages with the same result.

Or it could be a loose belt.

Sid Bridge
Sid Bridge
3 months ago
Reply to  Cheap Bastard

That’s a whole other debate. I trusted a local shop to do the conversion. It was a shop with a good reputation that’s done good work for me before, so I like to think they did all the right things (we did reuse the old compressor – and I’m aware that can cause problems).

As for the belt, I noticed two concerning things – 1. The AC belt seemed plenty tight, but the stock adjuster for it was not 100% there – it was just being tightened with a bolt. This seems to be fine as it’s not producing any unwanted slack, so I left that alone. 2. I think the other belt may be a touch loose for unrelated reasons. It would seem unlikely that it would start squealing after they worked on the AC, but maybe they loosened both to get in there? Either way, I couldn’t get it any tighter. Also, the squeals don’t always happen. If you want to reproduce it, you really need to start the car warm and rev the engine when you start it.

Cheap Bastard
Cheap Bastard
3 months ago
Reply to  Sid Bridge

You could try a little belt conditioner:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/oil–chemicals—fluids/grease—lube/belt-dressings/2b215fb4e20c

Or replace the belts altogether if that hasn’t already been done.

That Guy with the Sunbird
That Guy with the Sunbird
3 months ago

We rented a then-new turbo-4 Jeep Wrangler 4-door in summer 2022 for a long drive and once the sun went down, I could’ve sworn the front was illuminated by two candles. It was shockingly bad compared to the headlights in our 2016 Mazdas. In fact, a 2014 or so CX-5 passed me on the interstate going into Oklahoma City and their headlights illuminated twice as much as the Jeep’s. That was the only time I’ve been disappointed in a modern car’s headlights.

The main thing I hate about headlights now is how the plastic lenses get hazy and fogged up so quickly. The brightness of the bulbs doesn’t matter if the lenses are as foggy as a bathroom mirror after a long shower. I’ve had to have my 2016 Mazda6’s lenses cleared/touched up twice now and it stays in a garage most of the time.

In college, my then-girlfriend (now wife) had a 2006 Malibu and its headlights got so bad that I replaced them because we couldn’t get the haze to come off even with the best kit from the store.

TXJeepGuy
TXJeepGuy
3 months ago

The “base” headlights on the Wrangler are awful. Its embarrassing that Jeep sells those on 60k+ Wranglers and then offers an upgrade.

Squirrelmaster
Squirrelmaster
3 months ago

I’m with you on this, but what frustrated me even more is that there are new cars with absolutely crap headlights. There is little more frustrating than climbing into a base-spec rental and finding out it has headlights that are more ethereal than real.

Parsko
Parsko
3 months ago

My 94 Toyota Pickup has sealed 6054 sized bulbs. I’m fully convinced that one of them is original, cause one is still a 6052. The 6062 is practically a flashlight, it’s pointless and horrible. But, I will NOT change it till it dies, cause I think it’s original to the truck, or very close. Here is why…

In 1997/1998? I worked at Hutchins Automotive and studying mechanical/automotive engineering at UB. At the time, we sold both 6054’s and 6052’s. IIRC, the 6054 replaced the 6052 in quality and life, but in the same package. They stopped selling H6052’s in the 90’s, I thiiink. So, this bulb is likely nearly 20 years old. I got the truck in 2009, and it had 2 6052’s in it, and one died. This is what led me to this whole thing, having to change that one bulb 12+ years ago. Both lights still work, and I used them for the first time in probably a year or two the other day.

lastwraith
lastwraith
3 months ago
Reply to  Parsko

Is there a reason you can’t save it in a box and put in an actually useful headlight? I don’t get it.

Parsko
Parsko
3 months ago
Reply to  lastwraith

No reason at all. I can do the same thing when it stops working too. Lazy I guess. I mean, it still works, but I never really drive it at night, and if I do, it’s not far.

I’ve wondered why cops don’t pull me over, but they got better things to do.

Rollin Hand
Rollin Hand
3 months ago
Reply to  Parsko

No offense, but just change the damn lights, please. It makes no sense to have inferior lights when the answer is so simple.

lastwraith
lastwraith
3 months ago
Reply to  lastwraith

Ah, alright, I thought this was a DD but apparently not so I guess not a big deal then.
On the off chance I needed to drive at night though, I’d save the OE part and swap to something usable.

Last edited 3 months ago by lastwraith
Parsko
Parsko
3 months ago
Reply to  lastwraith

Both you and Rollin are right, but I don’t know if I should save the bulb. But, I am a tiny bit of a packrat.

Jeff Brown
Jeff Brown
3 months ago
Reply to  Parsko

I also have a 94 Toyota Pickup that I acquired in the late 2000s from the original owner that *probably* has the original headlights. I recently picked up some cheapo sealed-beam halogen replacements from carparts.com, but I’ve yet to install them because I don’t drive the truck at night. I know mine has the original windshield wiper brackets (which is apparently pretty rare), so now I want to see what else is original!

Parsko
Parsko
3 months ago
Reply to  Jeff Brown

Original wiper brackets??? I’ve got those too. I’m also the 2nd owner. My seat has had a seat cover on it since new. Same one, super thick. My bench seat is MINT.

I think we just became best friends!

Logan King
Logan King
3 months ago

I dropped JW Speakers in my Corvette about 5 years ago I think and to this day I’ve not driven a car with better high beams in terms of throw and “wall of light”. The low beam part isn’t as impressive (about in line with a very good factory HID) but the cutoff is still crisp and they are still very good.

$500 absolutely perfectly spent.

Last edited 3 months ago by Logan King
DialMforMiata
DialMforMiata
3 months ago

My ’98 Stratus had legitimately terrible headlights from new, to the point where driving at night felt a bit sketchy. Not great as I was overnight manager at a hotel at the time. One of the things I appreciate about my ’95 Miata is how easy it was to swap to E-code headlights which made the fairly limited night driving I do in that car feel a lot safer.

The Schrat
The Schrat
3 months ago

I think you may be overblowing this issue: headlights ARE modular and replaceable components. It’s not like I’m telling you to do a full brake swap.

Over the last year I have:
-replaced the original H4 bulb in my ’78 BMW with a form-fit replacement LED unit and added driving lights for touring.
-replaced the original sealed-beam unit on my ’85 Vespa with the modern, Euro-spec H4 setup from Piaggio
-sanded/cleaned the lenses of my 996, replaced the bulbs with bright white H7s, and aimed them properly.

None of my vehicles lack for visibility at night. You may also consider night-driving glasses with tint to reduce the effects of everyone else’s blue lights.

Buzz
Buzz
3 months ago

Swap out those dinky little cubes in front of your grille for a quartet of Hella 500s. Your actual headlights will still suck, but you’ll have the power of Helios at your disposal with the flick of a switch.

Fineheresyourdamn70dollars
Fineheresyourdamn70dollars
3 months ago

Yeah, there are four lights, whatever. Brakes in the 1990s – that’s something to talk about. A perfect convergence of maturing ABS technology, four wheel disk, and cars were still relatively light. The fleet hadn’t caught up and you really needed to check the rear mirror when stomping. Integra, early Boxters, Eclipse gen 1 and 2, even Saturn #2s. Sub 100 ft 60-0.

Captain Muppet
Captain Muppet
3 months ago

At least polish your old lenses, replace the bulbs and fix the aim of your 90’s headlights before saying they are dreadful.

Maybe measure improvements between each thing, or a-b-a tests, like actual science.

As non-American: your sealed beam headlight thing is just so weird.

Rollin Hand
Rollin Hand
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

Have you pulled apart the housings to check on the condition of the reflectors?

And have you looked around for new housings? I’d bet even a set from Rock Auto would be an improvement, if not technically legal.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1992,caravan,3.0l+v6,1077364,body+&+lamp+assembly,headlamp+assembly,10762

Anoos
Anoos
3 months ago

You could try cleaning up the housings to remove some of that yellow haze. I have had good results with Meguiar’s Plast-x, but there are also a ton of headlight-specific products.

You could also check with Daniel Stern. http://www.danielsternlighting.com

I was surprised that I still remembered his name. This is who all the 240SX people would go to back in the day for e-code headlamp upgrades. He is a genuine lighting enthusiast and could possibly know where to source some replacements for your housings. I am not affiliated in any way, I just purchased headlights from him like 20 years ago.

Hiram McDaniel
Hiram McDaniel
3 months ago
Reply to  Anoos

I knew Daniel Stern would come up in these comments. I was educated on his site back in the day after being directed there from the Vanagon forum on TheSamba. It is “the” go-to for lighting.

Anoos
Anoos
3 months ago
Reply to  Hiram McDaniel

I’m surprised he’s not mentioned here more considering Torch’s love of automotive lighting.

I wonder if there’s some weird rivalry between tail light enthusiasts and headlight enthusiasts. Torch is probably cursing the mention of his nemesis at this very moment.

Man With A Reliable Jeep
Man With A Reliable Jeep
3 months ago

I’ve owned a number of 90s Chryslers and I can definitely say David is correct. My XJs had universally terrible night time illumination and my ZJ was only marginally better. Heck, even my 2012 JKU had pretty subpar headlamps when taking into account the passing of time and technology. Even after polishing the plastic headlamp housings, there was only a very slight improvement.

Then, I did the plunge and converted my JKU H4 headlamps, using Hella glass housings, the KC conversion kit, and improved H4 Sylvania bulbs. It definitely makes a marked improvement.

That said, don’t get me started on people who buy those obnoxious aftermarket LED/Halogen conversions then, on top of it, don’t properly align them. If anything should be regulated, it’s that bullshit. Where are you now, NHTSA?

VanGuy
VanGuy
3 months ago

I completely agree. I also replaced the housings on my old van and upgraded the bulbs with LEDs in the last year I had it, but that’s in the US where cops and inspections don’t seem to give a crap about that kind of thing.

The LEDs are so much better but obviously they still need to be aimed and there’s no standards/regulations/laws for upgrading existing halogen bulbs to LEDs, which sucks.

Sounds even worse in Europe if you’re stuck with that.

Angry Bob
Angry Bob
3 months ago

This is even more true for motorcycles. I have an old Suzuki with one incandescent headlight bulb in a small yellowed housing. Nighttime visibility is dismal. And I have a newer Honda with two large H4 LED low beams and two separate large H6 LED high beams, all in crystal clear reflector style housings. It must pump out ten times more light and is amazing at night.

A. Barth
A. Barth
3 months ago

a huge drawback of old cars: the headlights

I believe we could expand that to include brake/tail lights and turn signals as well.

Old motorcycles suffer from the same weak sauce lighting, so when I’m updating a roadgoing bike I’ll use an LED headlight and tail light. Anything I can do (within reason and legality) to be more visible will probably help, and the lower current draw of LEDs is helpful for old electrical systems.

I do not use LED turn signals, though. Old signal flasher units rely on the electrical load of the incandescent bulb to create the correct on/off timing (i.e. blinking). LED turn signals do not create the same load, so installing them with no other mods will result in turn signals that strobe very rapidly – not good. The usual methods to address this are 1) an LED-specific flasher unit or 2) wiring resistors into the turn signal connections to generate the correct load [so the original flasher will work properly]. However, there is a manufacturer that makes very bright incandescent turn signals in a wide range of styles – including some that look OEM – so I use those instead.

Dune Muncher 5000
Dune Muncher 5000
3 months ago
Reply to  A. Barth

This is good info! I see bikes around all the time with LED turn signals acting all wonky and now it makes sense!

10001010
10001010
3 months ago
Reply to  A. Barth

I came down here to make this same comment. If you think headlights on old cars suck try getting caught out after dark on an 80s motorcycle, especially if you’re extra-stupid and forget to open the tinted visor on your helmet. Ask me how I know…

BolognaBurrito
BolognaBurrito
3 months ago

You’re Plymouth doesn’t have sealed beams, but…

On loads of classic cars, one way to improve your light output while retaining the classic sealed-beam look, is to install an interlaying relay for the headlights. In olden times, most cars had the power going from the charging system, through the switch then to the headlights. When you install a relay, the power will go straight from the charging system (through a relay) to the headlights.

Another big advantage with this is that you can upgrade the wiring in that relay loop, to be able to safely handle H4 sealed beams which are plentiful, still cheap, and are a huge improvement over stock sealed beams. Cibie used to be the most common brand/upgrade, but now it’s Koito… at least for 7″ openings.

This whole upgrade–including the high quality Koito’s–can be done for like $50-$100 and it’s a dramatic improvement.

Or you can buy Holley’s Retrobright LED sealed beams which look old school and have pretty decent output (though, actual lighting aficionados will shit all over them); but they are like $200 per lamp.

LTDScott
LTDScott
3 months ago
Reply to  BolognaBurrito

I was disappointed with the performance of the Retrobrights and swapped them for Hella E-Codes with H4 bulbs instead.

BolognaBurrito
BolognaBurrito
3 months ago
Reply to  LTDScott

My brother put some Retrobrights on his ’69 C10 and they were a huge improvement over the sealed beams that were on it.

I think they are cool, I just don’t like the double whammy of plastic lenses and that they are flat.

My Koito’s (not yet installed) are glass, but flat lenses. I think the Hella E-Codes have domed glass.

LTDScott
LTDScott
3 months ago
Reply to  BolognaBurrito

Mine were the 4×6 retrofits and I had weird hot spots of light on the ground and the LEDs totally messed with my radio interference. Also wasn’t happy with the sharpness of the horizontal cutoff. And yeah, being plastic isn’t great either.

Jmfecon
Jmfecon
3 months ago

New or modern cheap cars in places where regulation regarding light is poor or non-existent also sucks.

Drive any entry level car for “emerging markets” (China, Brazil, India and Russia) and it will throw light at the road in the same way an old bettle did.

Arch Duke Maxyenko
Arch Duke Maxyenko
3 months ago

Sylvania makes Ø7″ LED Sealed Beams, on things like the Voyager, you can just swap in better bulbs which make a huge difference, but most new car headlights sold in America fucking suck compared to elsewhere in the world.

BolognaBurrito
BolognaBurrito
3 months ago

And they look like ass.

BolognaBurrito
BolognaBurrito
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

Have you tried entirely new housings? They are like $25 each on RockAuto and yours look… old.

Alexk98
Alexk98
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

I find this to be a really confusing issue, not just in europe but in the US (at least in theory) that you MUST have locally compliant headlamp assemblies, yet you may be completely unable to get them. So you get stuck with garbage, dim, nearly worthless headlights, instead of being able to get a marginally worse on paper replacement that will be far superior in practice.

Goose
Goose
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

At what point does compliance with the letter of the law become a larger hazard than complying with the spirit of the law? I would think illegal but new US housings would be safer than legal but crap old EU housings?

Hiram McDaniel
Hiram McDaniel
3 months ago
Reply to  Goose

Most countries in EU require yearly MOT type inspections. If you did DOT headlight housings, you would need to keep the original housings and swap them back in before inspection time.

Arch Duke Maxyenko
Arch Duke Maxyenko
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy
Cheap Bastard
Cheap Bastard
3 months ago

I think the description says these are for US models only.

Arch Duke Maxyenko
Arch Duke Maxyenko
2 months ago
Reply to  Cheap Bastard

They say SAE approval, but apparently what is needed for Germany is the E1 stamp on the back of the housing, per Hella’s website

Cheap Bastard
Cheap Bastard
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

Do American housings not fit or are they not allowed?

Cheap Bastard
Cheap Bastard
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy
Arch Duke Maxyenko
Arch Duke Maxyenko
3 months ago
Reply to  David Tracy

The plastic lenses on it look very UV degraded and I’d imagine the reflector surface inside is also quite degraded as well.

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