I have a secret. It’s a terrible, dark secret that an automotive diehard would normally never reveal. I … cannot drive a car with a manual transmission. [Ed Note: You’re fired! /s -DT]. No one in my family has had a car with a manual transmission during my time as a viable driver. And the family friends who once upon a time did have cars with a stick shift have either since lost them to accidents or traded them in for a better family hauler.
This has also been a problem while shopping for performance. In 2021, I found a 1994 Mazda Miata in mint condition with 60,000 miles for less than $4,000. But I couldn’t test drive it because I didn’t know stick and the seller, understandably, didn’t want a random stranger to burn out their clutch. Hell, the only experience I’ve ever had with a stick was a college roommate’s Ford Focus. They’d park behind me, blocking me in. And to make things even better, they’d be passed out on the couch and needed to get to class. He wouldn’t wake up for anything less than fireworks. Only once was I successfully able to get the Focus in reverse gear and move it into a different parking space.
So, this has been a shame for a long time and I think it’s about time I rectify this. My hope is to find a shitbox, or something slightly nicer. Cheap is key. I don’t want to feel bad about burning out a gearbox in my quest to learn stick. It would also be nice if it is fun to drive.
2008 Honda Fit – $5,000
I’m always a sucker for a hatch and have been a bit whistful about parting from my beautiful blue Hyundai Elantra GT to get my Ford Maverick. This 2008 Honda Fit has 120,000 miles on the odometer and looks to be in good working condition. There’s no noticeable rust on the exterior and barely a touch underneath. Not bad for a car in Pennsylvania!
It sold for a reasonable $5,000. However, my significant other already owns a red 2012 Fit so getting another one might be redundant. But with its Tardis-like storage capacity and a lift kit, it could be a lot of fun for the Gambler 500.
2000 Toyota Celica – $1,000?
This Celica might be more in the price range I’m looking for. I knew a kid who had one of these back in high school. In good condition, and in black, it felt like an affordable Toyota version of the Lamborghini Murciélago from The Dark Knight.
I’m now waiting for Adian to strike me down for even mentioning these two vehicles in the same breath but the general lines both feel like they’re knives that can cut through the air. Speaking of whistful, now I’m sad neither the GT-Four nor TRD M Sport were sold stateside. At least we only have to wait one more year to import this beauty.
2008 Pontiac G5 – $650
Shifting back to stateside, can I offer you a not-so-nice egg 2008 Pontiac G5 in this trying time? The current owner has already proclaimed it a shit box and their description is endearing.
Shitbox for sale. This car has been super reliable, has never left me stranded anywhere. It’s been over the bridge into the UP and driven down to Detroit multiple times recently. I’m not afraid to jump in this thing and go anywhere. Had new front rotors and pads last fall along with new tires. New alternator, belt, tensioner, and battery last year. On eBay coilovers, so it’s low, but rides like shit. Rockers are pretty well gone. Car has 275k and is a 2.2l with a 5 speed manual. Clutch acts a little soft sometimes, but I usually just baby it, it’s not a race car. It will slip if you beat on it. Have driven it this way for a few years now. Someone come bring me $750 and drive this thing home.
2000 Ford Contour SVT – $1,075
Yours and my favorite Pontiac Vibe enthusiast suggested a 2000 Ford Contour SVT over on The Autopian’s Discord.
At this angle, the damage doesn’t look too bad But upon closer inspection, woof.
Well, a windshield is easy enough to replace. If it runs and drives, who cares how a shitbox looks from the outside? At least the interior looks good.
As an owner of a 90’s Mustang, there is a soft spot in my heart for the SVT vehicles. It would be neat if it came back as a package option. Do you want a Maverick SVT? Of course, you do.
[Ed Note: I learned to drive stick on a 2005 Saturn Vue with a 2.2-liter four-cylinder sending 143-horsepower through a Getrag long-throw five-speed. Learning to manage the clutch on a vehicle that underpowered helped me become a proficient stickshift driver. -DT].Â
The Search Begins
This is where you fine folks come in. What car would you suggest for someone to beat on while they learn stick? Or better yet, is there one nearby that you want to bless or damn me with? If it’s $3,000 or under and within 250 miles of Flint, MI, it just might be the one!
There are two schools of thought on this, and which one works best for you really depends on how you approach a challenge.
First: lots of torque (for the vehicles weight anyway) and a soft, gradual clutch. This is by far the easiest to get moving in at first, as you work on synchronizing your feet and right hand. It gets you more practice more quickly with less frustration, but on the flip side you don’t get the chance to work on finer clutch release and throttle application to really smooth out the experience since it’s not really as necessary. If this sounds good, I’d probably go for the G5, my experience with platform mates has been that they’re very forgiving to get going, but the clutch and shifter feel is pretty crap overall, not precise. I don’t know what the clutch and gearbox on the contour is like, but this could be a good choice here too, plenty of power for the size and the contour (even the non svt V6 with an auto, the only example I have any experience with) was pretty engaging to drive.
Second: start out with a tricky, low torque engine or a grabby clutch. If you master this, you’ll be able to drive most other manuals without an issue. It can be a bit infuriating until you start doing throttle control exercises to hold a specific rpm in neutral, and really working on synchronizing the left foot feel of the clutch with the whine vehicle response through the seat, but typically the more rewarding manual transmissions to drive can be a bit trickier to get the hang of at first. Id put the Celica in this category… If the 1zz engine and 5 speed is anything like the 2zz and 6 speed in the Pontiac vibe GT that I have a lot of experience with, it is easy to stall or over rev, but getting it right is very rewarding
It’s really not that hard to learn and it doesn’t matter much what car as long is it’s new enough to have synchros for all gears and it’s not a crazy supercar belonging to someone who well yell at you if you make a mistake. Non-Americans do just fine with manual transmissions in any sort of vehicle.
It could be just me, but a cable clutch seems a bit easier than hydraulic. Every car’s different so in a new one I’ll use all knee ’till I find that “bite” then graduate to more ankle. I’m only 1,000 miles away but I’ll let you try all my cars. Just bring your $3,000 so I can sell you one!
A cable clutch is going to really limit the options, hydraulic has been the norm for 3 decades at least! The only experience I have with a cable clutch has been in motorcycles, where it was fine, but I wouldn’t say any better than a hydraulic clutch. Also, given that motorcycles have wet clutches which are typically more forgiving than dry clutches common in cars, the hydraulic option is probably better overall on feel, as long as the manufacturer hasn’t sleeves one of those dual rate springs on the clutch return that confound feedback from the pressure plate with just a heavier spring rate
All my rides are pretty old & I don’t have much experience with anything built after the turn of the century. Also, after reading the comments I really want to drive a tractor.
Any manual foxbody or New Edge Mustang would be the easiest to find with a cable I think
I learned about clutches on a motorcycle and then just sort of blended into manual transmission cars. I took my car driving test in a 4 speed M-B 220.
I’ve taught probably a dozen people to drive a manual car, all a success and no drivetrain carnage. I have used the same approach as TOSSABL right down to the rural roads. Getting a feel for the initial friction point and the friction zone is the key and the simple gas off/clutch in disengagement. A light low torque vehicle is probably the easiest to clue into. Get them confident on launch and then shifting without looking at the knob, then a couple of hill starts without stalling or wheel spin and then they are on their own. Some people take a couple of hours, some take three separate sessions to clue in. The last couple of times, I felt like some kind of automotive evangelist shining the light.
Something with low range is easiest in my opinion, or a tractor. First gear low range just go in and out with the clutch until you get the hang of it
Also, is that a YJ in the lead pic?
I learned on a Jeep wrangler (CJ) and I would say that or a Cherokee (XJ) would be excellent choices. The Ax15 transmission is very durable and the clutch is WAY over-built so it will be hard to break
Plus the market for old jeeps just keeps going up so you’re all but guaranteed to get your money back out of it if you decide to sell it after you learn.
That being said, I have driven a friend’s 5 speed Fit and it would also make a great car to learn in.
I taught that friend’s kid to drive stick in my XJ and my Fiat 500 (which is another good option).
Get the car you want to drive. If pressed, I’d recommend the ones with cable throttles (any of them?—not sure about the ’08s) as they won’t be subject to terrible e-throttle calibration, but that’s overstating the issue. In spite of what the gatekeeprs who are so proud that they can pull out of a driveway without stalling would make it out to be, learning the basics of getting around is really not hard. I taught myself with only the most minimum of advice and then a bunch of other non-car people and they all learned quickly. Nobody ever “ground gears” like in the movies or did any kind of damage. They learned on my cars and the only time I replaced a clutch was when I replaced a transmission after 175k miles that included lots of J-turns and similar such driving in a car known for having transmissions on the weaker side and the clutch itself was actually fine, but I figured I might as well replace it at that point. With about 900k miles driving manuals on cars close to or surpassing 200+ miles, none of my clutches even felt like they were even on their way out. Just know you’re going to stall and be ready to restart it. That’s it. There’s plenty of videos on how to out there for the rest. Hill starts take the most practice, but it shouldn’t be too hard to find an incline where you can practice, like maybe an industrial park after hours. Plus, most modern cars have hill holder, anyway, though I highly recommend learning to start on a hill with it off, even if you want to leave it on driving in traffic until you get a chance to practice somewhere quiet.
This is a legit answer.
I got a couple lessons from my Dad on a84 Accord, but really I learned on a TR6. In reality I should have learned on a Honda. It’s the best stick I’ve had the pleasure of driving, from Pontiac to Porsche, and that includes a tractor or two.
Find an older Civic or Fit and get a couple lessons, then go forth into the world and do good work.
Something cheap with an easy to fix transmission, most of these meet the bill. The fun car come later.
Even better, either have someone teach you with a manual themselves or they show you on what ever you choose.
Remember
Unless someone is an utter animal, damaging a transmission while learning to drive stick seems unlikely. Especially since Jon already knows how to drive.
What Car Is Best For Someone Learning To Drive Stick?
Someone, anyone else’s car
It’s been discussed a few times in the Discord and a shockingly high percentage of us have learned on tractors. They really are great to learn on. They never go very fast and are torquey little things.
My dad tried to teach me on a 1960 MGA (he still has that car) until I stalled it in an intersection. A few years later they got an old 1950 Ford 8N tractor that they used to plow the driveway. I would just take it out onto the lawn and practice shifting. It might have topped out at 15 mph in 4th gear. Then I graduated to my dad’s 69 Jag XKE (he unfortunately sold this car many years ago) and my sister’s Eagle Talon TSi. I didn’t have a manual car of my own until I bought a Saturn Astra in 2008. I was pretty out of practice, but after 10 years of that as a daily driver, I got pretty good. Now the MGB is the only manual in the household. When I bought the Astra, the wife said she would learn, but she never had interest past a few lessons. I’m hoping my kids want to at least learn someday. They’ve at least grown up seeing me drive them.
I learned the basics on a Chevy HHR but did most of my learning after that on a 2000 Mustang GT. The GT was much harder to drive smoothly (the clutch was a stage 2 and super heavy, and the shifter was direct but high effort) I think it made me a way better driver. I’d say learn the basics on an economy car but hone your skills on something that takes a bit more effort.
That would have had a cable clutch not hydraulic that’s part of why it was so heavy
I learned on a 2014 fiesta ST. put the down payment on it, had my dad drive it home with me and practiced in a parking lot for about 2 hours later that day. the day after that was stop and go traffic on a series of hills. if you’re gonna learn stick you might as well do it getting used to a car you want to keep
Learned on a 58 VW van. It was pretty easy, you learn to shift quick as the thing has so little power. Climbing or decending hills of any measurable grade required quick shifting with an eye on the speedo and the rear view mirrors to watch for cars or trucks rapidly approaching from behind so you could swing onto the shoulder to let them by. If the hill was especially long or steep, you could take a break at some point to remount the fan belt that the engine decided to spit out in frustration. You learned to match revs by engine sound because there is no tachometer. An added bonus is you can bring along six to eight ride along advisors to distract, encourage or cheer your efforts.
I learned in a 1951 Hudson Eight Commander with a big lazy flathead eight tied to a 3 spd w/overdrive. What was special to Hudson’s of that era was that the clutch was an oilbath with cork disc inserts on multiple drive discs. This allowed a very easy slow take-up in the clutch pack resulting in a smooth drive away.
Highly recommend it!
The Fit is the best of the cars in this bunch. It will take take a little abuse while you learn then still be a decent car. It will also have some value left in it when you decide to sell.
When I was young my friends and I would often swap cars. I had a late 70’s automatic Datsun B210 while one of my friends had an early 80’s manual Accord (both very used). I remember revving the Accord’s engine and dumping the clutch on hills. I eventually refined my starts.
My sister bought a new manual Sentra from the dealership even though she didn’t know how to drive it. She learned quickly as well, because she needed to.
Any car will work as long as the clutch hasn’t been “upgraded” for performance.
My first stick I drove was my dad’s 77 firebird but only had driven that once or twice while my dad was with me to tell me what to do. My first stick shift I had owned for myself was my 92 cummins which was what I really learned stick in. It has been really nice to really learn stick in since it is easy to shift and and really hard to get in any trouble since it is big, heavy and slow truck. Also having a hydraulic clutch vs my dad’s firebird it much nicer on the leg haha. And as others have stated learning in something you want to drive is the way to go because you care more about the feeling of the vehicle and are less nervous. Oh and I did not learn stick shift until I was in my mid 20’s so it is never to late to learn.
I used to say an old air cooled VW was the ideal car to learn the 3rd pedal in, but prices have gone up since then. Any old shitbox will do. Nothing too valuable preferably
I’ve taught multiple people to drive a manual—including someone in their early 40s. I like to start with coaching them —and making it a mantra—that if any trouble happens: clutch in. I make them practice that. This way, the almost inevitable bucking won’t freak them out. I use a gravel lot to begin with, too; less chance of damage.
Practice the engagement point a few times, then try engaging it with the car just idling a few more times. This quickly gains confidence to build on.
Any car. It doesn’t matter. The contrast between auto and manual is greater than the contrast between any pair of manual cars. And if you’re reasonably competent you won’t need a junker to “write off” just learning manual. The important thing is not to get bogged down with theories and actually dive in.
Don’t feel bad, I couldn’t drive a stick when I started working at a low volume Honda, Mazda and Hyundai dealership in Pennsylvania as a salesperson in the 1990’s. Upon learning I couldn’t drive a stick the sales manager first made fun of me, then took me out into the middle of nowhere on a gravel road in a run down old elantra with torn seats, no working hvac, and the most rubbery shifting manual. The clutch on that elantra was barely hanging on and it was only sort of suggesting a connection between the engine, and transmission. The sales manager left me there in that Elantra a few miles from the dealer and told me that if I learned to drive stick I would make it back to work. I did, and I went on to love manual transmissions.
I agree with the “learn on something you want to drive” crowd. I learned by buying a Chevy Monza (new) with a stick and driving it home from the dealer. It was my only car, and I needed to get to work the next day, so I needed to pick it up quickly. It’s really not that hard on any car that’s not a race vehicle.
My friend had a manual Monza. With the rear wheel drive it wasn’t to hard to drift.
Of these I’d go with the Fit. I used to think that any manual car could be fun to drive, but then I test-drove a really bad one (2012 Hyundai Elantra Sport), and realized that all gearboxes are not created equal. Honda uses good gearboxes. Get the Honda.
Back in the day, a buddy of mine just got a new Acura RSX with no experience with a stick. He maybe spent an hour driving with a friend of ours in his manual truck before going to pickup the Acura. He survived and the car survived.
An already competent driver will quickly pick up manual transmission skills because you’re not worried about learning the other aspects of driving at the same time. Go with a car you’d like to have around for awhile and you’ll be fine. Something fun and fling able will encourage more behind the wheel time and speed the process.
I learned on a 1973 Chevy tow truck. I was 16 and my boss had two rigs – a massive ‘59 Chevrolet truck hauler that could pull a small town around and had the highest cab I ever drove in – and the ‘73 C30 based rig. Boss wanted at least two drivers on duty all of the time, especially for night callouts. He took me out one day in the C30 and I drove for couple of hours until I could shift without grinding and back the truck under control. After that, I was on my own. Did my first hookup two days later. Took longer to get good in the ‘59 because double clutching was required. I don’t necessarily recommend this method of learning, but it served me well and Ive never replaced a clutch in my vehicles in more than 50 years of driving manuals.